Front Brake feel fading - 2500kms 2010 TE510

Discussion in 'Common Items on Husqvarnas: Tires/tubes/grips/etc' started by Neesmo31, Jan 12, 2012.

  1. Neesmo31 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Queensland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2013 WR300, 2010 TE510
    Other Motorcycles:
    Did have - XC125, KDX200, XR250
    Hey all, starting to notice the front brake is losing its feel that it used to have. When new, it would pump very stiff just off "neutral" now you can squeeze it so the trigger touches the bar.

    I have bled the system a few times, has plenty of fluid, brake pads are at about 50% - but its only done 2500kms. Would it be due for a new fluid change? We have been experiencing some pretty wild weather here (very hot to humid to raining) and thought contaminants may have entered the system. Fluid looked clean.

    No leaks at all. Im thinking maybe just purge the system out with some good Motul 600 and see how we go? Any suggestions?

    Also what are a nice set of brake pads to use? (primarily road/dust/sand) very rarely mud.

    Thank you all in advance.
  2. iain321 Husqvarna
    C Class

    Location:
    Scotland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE510 2009
    Other Motorcycles:
    600 Suzuki Bandit
    just a thought, there is an adjuster on the brake lever which sits in between the lever and the hand grip, have you tried to screw it in fully clockwise? although i suspect you already know this if you have bled the system or have you tried just a slow gravity bleed? btw i have just change my pads and i use my bike off road and also noticed poorer breaking, the pads that were on it were Brembo and there were great, everyone mentioned how good the brakes were, perhaps i should go for the Brembo pads the next time. Sintered pads are good for road use and for the off road stuff i was recommended a softer type of pad by the supplier as they cause less disk wear with the mud.
  3. Neesmo31 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Queensland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2013 WR300, 2010 TE510
    Other Motorcycles:
    Did have - XC125, KDX200, XR250
    Yeah cheers, since I had no feedback on here I bought some Motul600 fluid and did a bleed/refill with that. Seems to be alot firmer than before. The adjuster is set to how I like my front brake position.

    We just did a 'normal' bleed and fill process. Mate on the caliper and me on the resevoir and trigger.

    Thanks for the reply mate.
  4. HUSKYnXJnWI Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Central Wisconsin, USA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    09TE450
    Back bleeding would have probably given better results from the get go (you are basically flushing the system and getting new fluid in every time you back bleed), seems much easier to get all bubbles out, and also, its a one man job. My brakes have never faded or gotten soft back bleeding the system twice a year. I got my last set of pads from MOTOSPORTZ and they are great- felt just like the stock ones: Strong.
  5. iain321 Husqvarna
    C Class

    Location:
    Scotland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE510 2009
    Other Motorcycles:
    600 Suzuki Bandit
    back bleeding, sounds good, can you tell me how to do this please.
  6. HUSKYnXJnWI Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Central Wisconsin, USA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    09TE450
    Sure:
    1. level the master cylinder on the bars-
    2. unscrew the master cylinder cover and remove
    3. place something to catch brake fluid as it overflows from the master cylinder (like an ice-cream bucket or coffee can
    4. fill syringe with brake fluid (only use fluid as labeled on the cover unless you truly know its compatible) and hold so the hose is upward to hold fluid
    5. attach hose on syringe to bleeder valve, and push fluid to expel air
    6. use a small clip to seal hose to bleeder
    7. now open the bleeder with hose on just enough to open it
    8. push fluid in, and pull back a few times till there is no bubbles, then push the remainder of the fluid through- which is overflowing the master cylinder
    9. with pressure still on the plunger of the syringe close the bleeder valve.
    10. remove a little fluid from the master cylinder so there is 1/4" or 6mm airspace at the top, put cover back on.
    11. position the master cylinder/lever at the angle of your choice and secure.
    12. test to ensure proper function, repeat or inspect as necessary.
    • tools: 8mm open ended wrench, phillips screw driver, syringe From pet store or farm store (see below) and 6"-12" of 1/4 rubber hose (auto store- used for vacuum lines).
    • Tips/explanation: I have had great luck with rubber vacuum line hose since its so flexable and seals well. I use vacume/ small hose clips to help with the seal onto the bleeders. I safety wire the hose onto the actual plastic syringe. Here's a link to the type of syringe I am talking about <<<<HERE at amazon>>>>> OH yea- make sure you have your lever adjusted (little red knob) so that it is not covering or putting presure on the valve- I.E.turn counter clockwise if you can't push fluid with syringe (valve is stopping flow).

    by the way this is how you back bleed Magura Clutches as well- I use the same syringe/ same process, different fluid obviously.

    I'm sure there are variations in-terms of "exactly" how someone else goes about it.... same general idea though.
    iain321 and Phoenix like this.
  7. iain321 Husqvarna
    C Class

    Location:
    Scotland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE510 2009
    Other Motorcycles:
    600 Suzuki Bandit
    that's great and very detailed instructions, going to give it a go and see if it makes the brakes any better. thank you
  8. duggoey Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NSW, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 TE 310
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 690, Yamaha WR200, FGS650(800cc)
    Good simple notes: You should dedicate a thread for it.
  9. JasonfromMN Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    MN
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    None right now :(
    Other Motorcycles:
    2013 Yamaha FZ6R
    Another simple often over looked maintenance bit: clean the brake rotor with brake clean and a white cloth. You'd be surprised at the black junk that comes off it. When my brakes seemed less than they used to be, I replaced the pads and bled new fluid. It helped but noticed another difference after cleaning the rotor. Don't have to pull the lever as hard for the pads to grip.
    iain321 likes this.
  10. Slowpoke Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Southern Ontario
    Just a note about those 60ml syringes in the link- some drug stores will give them away free, or just charge a small token amount for them......

    It also helps a bunch if you can raise the Master cyl to a few inches above the handlebars so that it's the highest point in the system. Any high spots in the brake line can allow tiny bubbles to gather- even when back bleeding.
  11. Neesmo31 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Queensland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2013 WR300, 2010 TE510
    Other Motorcycles:
    Did have - XC125, KDX200, XR250
    Thanks lads. With the new fluid, brake feel has come back a bit, but still not 100% happy. Will get new pads and clean disc and i think it will be back to normal.