I posted this on the huge TE thread on advrider so if you read in both places you can disregard one or the other. I'm 'browneye' over there. I picked up a TE630 yesterday. Too good of a bike at such a deal to pass up. Before I even fired it up it got the power-up, canister-ectomy and re-route the tank vent, removed the airbox baffle, tidied up a lot of wiring and hoses, reset the perches and bars, and set the tire pressure to something more realistic than 35lbs of air!! Added a set of Cycra Pro-Bends last night as well. So, got a few questions now after a whole 12 miles of road test last night. Was sure nice to take a putt on a new bike after the temps had cooled off. Man, this thing rips! Gearing - what were they thinking on stock gearing? First is like starting out at 15mph, and 6th is over a hundred. At 65 the thing is just squirelly, feels like it's going to setup a tank slapper at any minute. Probably need to set the rear sag. But seriously, what size is the counter (42rear) and what are you guys doing for 60-65 mph cruising and yet a decent crawl speed for offroad? Did I see 14-44/45 somewhere? The counter must be a 15, no? Stability - does it really need a steering damper or will it settle down once the rear sags a bit more? Like I mentioned, at about 60 if you shake the bars a little man it really starts a shimmey. Kinda scary. Just hold'er steady, eh? My Kawasaki doesn't do that. You have to really try to make it shake - the TE not so much - it's really touchy. Wheels - there are holes drilled but no rimlocks. WTF?? Looks like there's a heavy rubber rim-strip with a tit that pokes thru the rim. And no balance weights. Hmmm... Drill for opposing rim locks to keep balance? Static balance them? Wasn't an issue, but curious what others are doing. Seat - has that uncomfortable slope forward, and the seat firms up right where you would want to slide back a bit. I can see it's going to need some seat work. Fairly plush though, certainly more than my KTM. ECU - so my dealer has been fined by the local epa nazi's and won't do ecu tuning any more. First, does it need to be tuned as is (it runs perfectly) and second, if it does how do I get it done? What is iBeat and is it a program and a cable for a laptop that I can buy? Exhaust - exhaust note is nice but a little quiet. Has anyone de-cat'd them and opened up the internals? And Bill's pipe mod sounds like a great way to go, will contact them directly. What's up with FMF??? A Q4 for my katoom is like $250. Same muffler for a TE is $650 to $750????? What are they thinking???? I suppose a full Leo-V is like $1500 eh? Canister vacuum line to the intake - For plugging the brass nipple on the cylinder, do I need something special or just a rubber nipple cap? Does it need to be heat proof? Does it need a clamp? Instruments - does it have to be a 24 hour clock? What's that about? Can't change it to a 12-hour clock? I was never in the military so have never taken to a 24 hour clock. Also, my trip 1 doesn't work. Trip 2, total miles, hours, rpm, clock, everything else works. Am I missing something? Looks like average speed is for trip 1 too so it shows nothing. Top speed shows fine. Very nice piece too, the whole instrument thing. Skidplate - Any comments on the Hyde one? Are they durable enough more as a rock guard and less so as a bash-plate? The former would be sufficient for me, but curious on opinions. The factory one is like $175 and backordered. I think George's is even more. Ricochet is $90, Hyde $103. Touratech has one but I bet it's $275. I'm leaning to a Hyde polymer one. Well, that's all I can think of for the moment after just a dozen miles and 6 hours of tinkering. What a cool bike though. I'm so excited I can hardly stand it. Sorry for the long first post on the bike. Looking for input from all you pro's that have already been through one. I could really use some input here. Phone-camera pic of the new ride...
congrats and its great to see your excited!i will offer my 2cents to a few of your questions.Uptite alu skid plate is a nice peice.many people get a 14 t countershaft sprocket for that bike and they seem to be happy with it.some of the fmf mufflers are titanium which increases the cost.LV has two exhausts for the 630.twin stainless slip ons at a reasonable price a titanium full system that is a bit expensive but not any thing like $1500.i dont think it needs a damper,might help some but need,i say no.take some preload off the shock spring ,it has a bunch.dan
Well as for the ECU. You could buy a JD Power Surge, which should make the bike run even better. After installing the PU kit most dealers "update" the ECU with the "B" setting. Though nobody really seems to know what exactly is changed. As for stability, I can only speak for the SM, but mine got better with more miles and now has less to none headshake. You should also take a look at the various 630 threads, a lot of your questions have probably been answered already
Plugs for the Good Deals: CJ, I'm new here too, albeit I have the TE610 (FI). I know what you mean about squirrely at highway speeds. making sure the suspenders are set correct and tire pressure, I syill think any offroad bike worth it's salt needs a stabilizer. Top of my list. You can get a LeoVince X-3 slip-on at MotoXotica in Vacaville, CA for $299. Pretty nice piece for the price. Call Dan at 707-446-4282 ...(tell 'em Randy in Acton sent ya!) Another really good deal as far as the seat is concerned is Seat Concepts (http://seatconcepts.art.officelive.com/aboutus.aspx) in SoCal. They do real nice work and have choices in height, etc. Very affordable and quick turnaround e (tell 'em Rapid Dog in Acton sent ya!)
As far as Trip 1 and Trip 2 are concerned, ready the user manual v e r y carfully in the Instrument panel section. Trip 2 works all the time by default. The manual describes how to get Trip 1 activated. Got the SM and the TE. Never had any head shakes at all, very stable so far up to 100km/h
Outstanding info guys. I appreciate it. I need to call Dan and order a couple of things. Like a counter sprocket, at least. Try a 14 first and if that's not enough then get a chain and a 44/45 maybe. I stopped at a auto supply today and was able to get a copper washer for the O2 plug, my dealer was out and the one that was on the sensor is a compress type and I ruined it trying to get it off to use it on the new plug. And I got a pack of vacuum plugs in rubber that are heat and chemical resistant so I'll put a little clamp on that and plug off the port for the carbon canister. The Leo Vince X-3 seems like a nice solution. As well as the JD tuner. What a buy there! And no computer needed, a stand-alone unit for $209. How cool is that? I also found Bill's build thread on his son's TE and there's good info there. I haven't messed with any suspension settings yet so I'm sure that will help how it feels. It does feel like the back end is high when you ride it, but then all dirtbikes kinda feel that way on the road. My ktm feels like a perch or something, but perfect offroad. Now I need to get some time on 'er and get the motor broke in. Change the oil at 4-500 miles? I was looking at the sight-glass and it seems a little low. I'll warm it up and have a look, maybe it will flow better into that little area behind the window. I dunno why everybody went to those, they're hard as hell to use. I liked the old dipstick way. I've got four bikes with those dam windows and they're a PITA!!
Sounds like your well on your way to some fun Yes, set your sag soon, will make a lot of difference. also balance your wheels, it makes a HUGE difference on the road. The tall gearing is so it gets by the goofy EPA rules. (like the canister and lean unsafe EFI) Bills makes a inexpensive pipe for it and are great guys who have spent some time with the bike, call them. The Seat Concepts seat is awesome and inexpensive, highly recommended. The JD tuner is not necessary but well worth it if you have the coin. Manual adjustments and MUCH better running / performance than the stock maps. .
The only time my TE feels squirrely (weaving) is on grooved highways, otherwise fairly stable. Interesting comment about balancing the tires - I just assumed no wheel-weights means it was balanced as is. I was under the impresson that the LV X3 slip-on was for a dual muffler set up (for the 630). Besides the full Leo system, I've only found the FMF Q4 that converts to a single can. I have the Hyde Racing skid plate - it's plenty strong. I've only had it off-road once but there's no sign of wear that I can see from all the rocks hitting it (from the front tire kicking it up). Fits well and has good coverage over the lower part of the engine. I don't think you'd need a new chain with a -1/+2 sprocket set up.
the LV slip ons for a 630 are twin slip ons made out of stainless.they come with heat sheilds and spark arrestors.they also make the TI single that comes with a heat sheild,spark arrestor and the power up plug for the header pipe.fmf also has a single that is made out of TI.it is 3/4 length.not a full system but more than a slip on.it comes with a heat sheild also.it does not include the spark arrestor but one can be purchased.it is louder than the other pipes that i mentioned.i have not seen the fmf Q yet so i cant comment too much on it.tires are not balanced from the factory.i think they are assuming the balance will change too quickly from use for it to be worth while.i dont ever remember seeing a new husky from the factory with wheels balanced .dan
This was one of the first things I noticed on my ride home from the dealer (new TE630 6 weeks ago). I weigh 92kgs & the dealer had set it up for my weight. I decided to leave it that way for the first 1,000km break in period, as I thought it would settle in. It did, and I no longer notice it, and I don't believe this is because I've gotten used to it. The riding I did during that break in period was a mix of tar, backroad, fire trail & some harder offroad stuff.
We are happy with a 14t on the cs. Make sure to put loctite on the sprocket and footpeg bolts. We didn't take either of our 630's out untill got loctite on those bolts. I also took a razor knife to the 2 ridges on the shock guard/mud flap. That same damn flap started some grooves on my 510. My 630 valve cover vent hose removed its self from the air box. Make sure there is that piece of hose or whatever on the inside of the 90* fitting in to the air box. Both our 630's are p/u and all settings left at 100%. I have iBeat and did set the tps on each, but do not recall if they were off any. I have de-cated mine. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/cats-out-of-the-630.19162/#post-166925
I swapped the 15 CS for a 14 at the first (1,000km) service & left the rear at 42. It made a noticeable difference to the crawling speed in 1st, in fact more than I expected. Some of the improvement was no doubt also due to fitting the Arrow pipes at the same time, which gave a noticeable increase in torque and crisper throttle response (previously stock standard, no PU). I spent a lot of last Friday out in muddy, rocky, hilly 1st-3rd gear stuff & it was no problem, whereas it would have been in stock form. It's low enough for me now - if you need it any lower you would probably be in terrain where you need a more dirt orientated bike anyway. It is now not quite as relaxed on the road, but still fine for all day cruising at 110kmh-120kmh, really even 130kmh if you don't mind working the bike a little harder. Before the change it was doing around 4,000rpm in top at 100kmh and barely able to pull it, now it's around 4,350-4,400rpm doing it comfortably. I can't recall off hand what it's revving at at higher speeds, but I think it's about 5,800rpm at 130kmh and about 5,200-5,400 for 120kmh. I am not too sure what redline is on this bike.
Russ, I figured as much and agree with the gearing and intended use. For TST (tight single track) I have the KTM 250XCF-W. I was going to call Dan at MOTOX and order out a 14T counter. From what I've seen on performance with exhausts, I'll probably gut the stock cans and turn them into glass packs. I have a local shop that's a crack welder, he'll be able to fix me up with the internal pipes and refitting the sparky. Lots of help today from everybody. I really appreciate it.
I'll be picking my 630 up tomorrow if I can arrange for a ride to the dealer. I am a complete spaz when it comes to maintenance. I can change oil, but that is about it. The dealer up here will not even discuss the power up kit (other than selling it to me) or that goofey canister. I can only assume they have been tagged by the EPA folks. I have been reading here and at ADV, and have a good idea of what it entails. I guess my question is, are there any instructions that come with the kit so a complete moron can follow them?
Got rid of the wobble on my 630 by having the wheels balanced by an expert. A damper will NOT rectify the problem. Tried setting the suspension sag but that only resulted in quite different riding characteristics and the original setting was preferable. I take it that the p/u plug automatically re-sets the ECU. Am also quite satisfied with the standard gearing.
Stock suspension is extremely stiff. Rear is sprung for a 250/260 lb rider. Softer front and rear springs, front adjustable compression dampers from pre 08 610s and the bike is transformed. Much better ride and head shake disappears. You can use stock chain with 14/45 sprocket combo if you decide to go that way. Stock rear sprocket locknuts are of poor quality so replacement and/or loctite is a must.
Kev, the PU kit is almost a misnomer. It's just a brass plug that replaces the 02 sensor and a resistor built into a plastic connector that plugs into the harness where the sensor was. Thats it!! You do have to set the idle back down, the adjuster is a springloaded screw on the right side of the carb (TBI unit?) right behind the front edge of the airbox housing. Easy to get to with a 8mm open end wrench. I was just guessing that was idle, sure enough. Set the tack to display rpms and set it for 1650-1750. Oh, and I wire-tied the 02 plug to make sure it didn't come loose and fall out. BTW, my dealer wouldn't do any power up mods or tuning either. They said the epa nazi's (CARB) agents came out, two of them, showed their badges, presented a warrant, and went thru their computer and shop 'till they found two bikes that had the throttle stop removed, and fined them ten grand. F'krs. I hate carb and coastal commission. Both need to be dismantled. Oh well, don't get me started. Them and kwads riding our trails!! I also removed the baffle in the airbox behind the filter element. I'm assuming it's to quiet the intake honk, but gee, so what? It looks like a rats maze, WTF?? Why run the air thru all that. Anyway, I never ran mine with it, it just cam out and I soaked up the gooey mess of filter oil in there. Wha'ts up with service techs - either too much, too little, or the wrong kind of oil. At least it was real filter oil but way too much and it was practically running out. I will probably remove the snorkel and open up the cover with a hole saw and apply screen mesh to keep debris out. Leave the mounting area for the snorkel so it can be reinstalled and the vents covered if necessary for wet conditions (which I never see or will I ride in!!). The cannister is also a easy remove. I'll take a pic of my tank vent, but basically I pulled the hose up for the tank vent, cut the tube at the frame, reinserted the check valve, and then used another of the original tubing and ran it into the steering stem. The vacuum line nipple at the cylinder can be replaced with a machine screw, it found one in my spares that fit, blue locktited it in. The brass nipple has a screw slot in the end of it and it just unscrews out of the intake plenum. It starts and purrs like a kitten, barks like a rabbid dog. Way tons of power, very smooth. I'm really surprised. I've done a bunch of other stuff. Will take some pics and post up soon. I've gotta just get out there and ride this thing!!
What do you think that will do to the sound? Will it still be <92 db or so...stock has been tested to be 89db. I'd like to cool off the mufflers (by removing the cat), but don't want them to end up too loud. The glass-pack on my EXC is hecka loud.
Kevin- The power up kit does indeed have a resistor in it that changes the set-up, and this needs to be installed. Do a search and some reading...some get the kit (nominal cost) and some get the resitor from Radio Shack and do it as a DIY thing. Changing that resistor will cause the ECU to go into "B" mode (supposedly "race" mode, as opposed to "normal"- or, rather, hobbled- mode.) I chose the kit as it made it foolproof (the part numbers are out there, just do a search here or on the ADV thread.) Perhaps what's more important is the warranty consideration. From what I understand (which again may be right, it may be wrong...but it came to me from a reputable Husky dealer) is that in order for the warranty to remain intact and honored the p/u kit must be performed by the dealer who sold you the bike. Now again I can't say w/ 100% certainty who is right on this issue, but I chose to err on the side of caution and have the dealer who sold me the bike do the install so that the dealer I'd use if I needed warranty work (who is a lot closer to me) would honor said warranty. I understand that this is the heart of your pickle, so sorry I've not greater advice to offer. I guess what I am saying is that before you do the p/u you might want to talk to whichever dealer will be handling any warranty work, should the need arise. Enjoy the bike and take the time to go over it and get it set up properly. Mine had a few oil leaks w/in the first few hundred miles and some other niggling issues, but I'm getting there and I love this bike a great deal- it's a blast. Eric
A glass pack will get quite loud if it's not repacked. FMF says 25 hours for racing. I usually get about 40-50 hours of trail riding and then pull it apart. I have a Q4 on my KTM and it's a very satisfactory silencer. Some of the EXC's did get really loud, even with a stock can. The law allows up to 96db which is just fine with me. But then I'm half deaf...40 years of motorcycling, half of it racing two-strokes, will do that to you. That and 80's hard rock. Seriously, there are two mods published here, one is just gutting the cat section which left it pretty close to stock sound levels except for right at mid revs at WOT. And the other was a complete removal of internals and welding a perf-pipe to the sparky and wrapping it with fiberglass. I don't recall the result but it was still under legal limits. And they were reported to run way cooler. I've never owned a bike with stock exhaust. The husky is the best sounding stock exhaust I've ever encountered. I have a '09 Kawasaki Versys (road bike) and it sounded like a honda lawn mower. Yuk. So it got a Leo Vince can and sounds like a real motorcycle now. I will say I'm absolutely opposed to open or illlegal exhaust sound levels. That's the other extreme. In fact, I won't ride with someone with an illegal exhaust. It's just freakin' annoying. I will also say those fart-cans them kids put on the rice-burners are a joke. Yep, that's what we call them. I had a chipped duramax for a few years and it was fun to blow the doors off those stupid little cars. Eric, I have no question my dealer will honor the warranty on my bike regardless of the presence of the PU mod. I have yet to hear of one of them grenading anyway and that's the only reason that I would be calling on them to warrant a major repair or rebuild. YMMV of course. I also feel strongly that running the motor in the excessive lean condition as stock cannot be any good for it either. For me it was a no-brainer.
