• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Fastener Torque Table

MattR

MattR

2T Forum Clerk
Staff member
Fastener Torque Table

Here is a reference table that I created for my 2008 CR125. It may be applicable to other year CR,WR 125/150 bikes. The WR250/300 bikes may be different.

Note: As indicated in (red), I use a slightly lower torque value for the Triple Clamp Lower Bolts. This is done to avoid fork binding.


DISCLAIMER: This table does not replace your owner's manual.
It is for quick reference after you have verified that these torque values are suitable to your bike.


CR125_torque_table.jpg
 
Found this in a Husky manual. "19,5 (division symbol) 21,7" listed under Lb/ft. Does it mean 19.5-21.7?
 
Clete said:
Found this in a Husky manual. "19,5 (division symbol) 21,7" listed under Lb/ft. Does it mean 19.5-21.7?
Click to expand...

Yes, it is the total range like you show. So you want to use the average value = (19.5+21.7)/2 = 20.6
 
Zomby woof said:
Using anti seize or a lubricant will affect the torque values. Is that accounted for?
Click to expand...

I do not adjust the torque values for anti-seize or grease. There are too many other variables that can affect final clamp load in the joint. For me, the 10% increase in clamp load for a lubricated thread versus dry thread only occurs if all other factors are perfectly equal. Don't forget about all of the other sources of variation in the fastener joint... such as quality of threads (damaged, undersized, etc.), dirty threads, cleanliness of the bolt/nut faces against the mating component, torque wrench type (clicker or beam type), torque wrench accuracy and calibration, slow vs. fast torque application, number of times the bolt/nut have been reused (stretch, fatigue, etc.), ambient temperature, and the list goes on...

I did use a sanity check to see how Husky torque values compare to my previous brands of bikes. Many were similar, but Husky does seem to use higher torques on the front axle, rear axle, and swingarm pivot.

If it makes you feel better, I always use the above table for my bike. I have never stripped the bolt threads or broke a bolt. I mark my important bolts with a paint marks to see if they loosen over time and all have remained tight and never vibrated loose.
 
MattR said:
I do not adjust the torque values for anti-seize or grease. There are too many other variables that can affect final clamp load in the joint.
Click to expand...

That is the main reason to do it properly. You don't want to add to the variables, or in other words, make a bad situation worse.
 
You are welcome to omit the anti-seize and use the torque values "as-is". Or adjust the torque values to your own correction factor. As my disclaimer says at top of page, it is only for a quick reference after you have verified them to your model year owner's manual.
 
Blakelpd5 said:
Can anyone point me to the torque specs for the clutch spring bolts?
Click to expand...

Those are very light torque. I usually just snug them up by feel.

Here is the torque specs from Husky manual. This is from a 2008 WR/CR125 but should be the same if your bolts are M6 size.

clutch_torque.jpg
 
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