Bike is a SMS630 and I want to do the Lambda delete. I've got the block off plug for the exhaust. What parts would I need to make my own plug to replace the Lambda sensor plug? Thanks --DANIEL--
Here's a breakdown of the OEM parts you need and their prices. The Oxygen Sensor Connector contains a jumper inside it with a resistor. I'm not sure of the resistor value. Personally, the cost savings isn't worth the hassle for me. I just bought the parts instead. Oxygen Sensor Plug, P/N 8000A7724, $22.50 Gasket, O2 Sensor Plug, P/N 8000A7749, $1.25 Oxygen Sensor Connector, P/N 8000A6750, $16.95
According to the dealer who did my SM630 Lamda delete, there is some required calibration of the ECU using diagnostic tools over and above the hardware changes.
There's the topic again --> "Dealers switching 630 ECUs to 'B' mode." I'm only harping on this subject because I'm hoping to find some truth to it. However, my gut reaction is that Dealers might be prone to blowing a little harmless sunshine in order to make an extra buck or two. The 'power-up' is so simple. (Having done it on both a TE310 and a SM630.) It's hard to imagine that Dealers can charge anything for a 630 power-up. Unless.... They've got some mysterious special equipment that switches the ECU from mild to wild. If that were really the case, I'm sure that lots of people would like to know --- Where do I mail my ECU!!!?? In all seriousness, I hope that my gut turns out to be wrong. If it were true, wouldn't there be some documentation released to the dealers? Certainly someone on this forum would have access to that information. It would be really big news.
I did mine just by installing the parts. You're probably talking about some iBeat tweaks. My dealer said they would help, but weren't necessary.
I did the DIY route on my 610: Radio Shack pack of resistors $.99 Oil drain plug from Napa $2.99 I already had the electrical tape to keep the resistor in place.
I did the same thing with o.k. results but my bike never ran "correctly". I just completed my tune up with a FI tuner and I cannot believe the difference. Stay tuned for my thread on tuning my SM 630.
What FI tuner? iBeat? Did you do it yourself? I don't have a dealer anywhere nearby. Whatever I do, I'm on my own.
I added the 2.2k ohm resistor the other day to test out what the difference was....wow, the bike is so much smoother and stronger everywhere. After I picked it up from the dealer after the first service (where they told me they would take it out of "break in mode"...probably just a way to get me to do my first service there) I was coming back and was pretty disappointed with the pickup when on the highway and wanting to speed up from around 90km to 110km and it would just choke. I figured I have nothing to lose trying the PU mod. After doing it I am amazed at how much better it picks up. My only concern is that the power increase makes me wonder if it is going to be doing anything to the longevity of the engine, I guess I just can't believe the difference in the feel of the bike.
For what its worth, I used the same power up components (those mentioned by Jtemple) that were installed in my 2008 TE510 directly to my 2011 TE630 before I ever started it from the dealer and it runs perfect. In addition, on 630 USA models you must remove the plastic air restrictor stuck behind the foam air cleaner. IMO waiting till its broke in only harms the engine by running it excessively lean during the phase when the engine easily builds heat.
Red/Green & White/Brown See the link below for a writeup on it for a SM610, same process for the 630 though: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/show...ower-Up-Kit-Lambda-Bypass-Fuel-Injected-610SM
Took out the airbox restrictor tonight, do you guys think that when offroading through water this would help in keeping out the water at all? If not, is/was there any purpose to this? Fast1, you mentioned that in the USA models you need to remove this....Do they not have this plate in the Aus, EU models?
Emissions is my guess. It probably cuts down intake noise and slows airflow to reduce exhaust emissions.
For clarity, I would only recommend removing this (air box restrictor) while installing the power up components that richen the fuel metering. If you have not installed the power up components leave the air restrictor in place.