Crank bearings

Fit 70's both sides thru 80's cases ignition side 3205-C3

https://www.zoro.com/urb-dbl-row-an...gclid=CLme_q7snNICFQ-BswodA04BFg&gclsrc=aw.ds

Good luck with those

They look like ZKL which I have been using on ignition side. Yes from eastern europe but ZKL uses great steel. Must verify the these are ZKL s to use.
Make sure that its MAX capacity and C3 stamped on bearing.

You have to go with the only other unit out their and that the 3205-C3 E from at price about $83 Its made by MRC
for SKF. Note this has a poly cage. This unit now have 26 balls vs older 28 balls.
SKF engineer says poly should hold well for are race engines. Still very big fan of these SKFs
steel, engineering, all have been advanced in last few years.

Another really bad feedback for bearings 600,000 pounds of counterfeit bearing bearing seized in last year.
Including SKF in this group with correct packaging to boot. Lots of FAG bearings in loop that are Counterfeit

I only now purchase SKF s that are shipped direct from bearing supplier that they get them straight from factory. But the ZKL s
are for real. Verified these ZKL s with their engineers a couple years ago

Buyer beware on bearings

Don't forget the bearing assembly half moon cutouts go towards the inside. The horizontal thrust is towards the outside.
The cutouts towards the outside hammers the balls everything they pass by the assembly window.

I learned this in testing gear boxes on why they failed in two days on a dyne. When the bearings were installed properly no failures occurred.

The trouble with buying stuff on line like the link in post 1 is that often what they call a stock photo is used not an exact representation of what is delivered. That bearing number does not indicate maximum capacity/loading slot. The one I got MRC like described in post 3 has a m on the box. Do the original bearings even have markings to indicate maximum capacity on the bearing itself. It seems to me that in the last year or 2 a non maximum capacity double row bearing was installed, just from taking a few engines apart. There are likely a few previous threads on this topic that could be searched up.

There is also a slot of notch between the two hollows the balls run in. I suspect no matter which way one of those is installed if a thrust force exists the bump going by that is impossible to avoid.

I have split dozens of husky engines and yet have to see one double row bearing which failed. The two single row ones on lefthand side and gearbox bearings are always more worn way worse.
Loooong before that double row angular contact quits some other kind of issue will neccessitate cases to be split at which point one replaces all bearings in any way.
Bearing technology and specs have leapt way beyond what a max capacity 28 ball fag was 40yrs ago. Today a top quality 18 baller will do the job more efficiently and at a fraction of the cost and inconvenience of finding a 26 baller. Even reinforced polamide cages are good for the task.
Bigbill, i really appreciate all your posts and endeavours. A husky crank only experiences and exerts "horizontal force" when you are busy bolting the cases together or when seperating them. Thereafter the whole assembly literLly floats.
The feeding slots on that double row bearing goes to the outside as per original husky and for one very good reason. If ever that bearing was to start failing, those slots is where the filings and crap will be spewing out from.

Here one from McMaster Carr it doesn't say 3205-C3 it says 3205 no C3.


https://www.mcmaster.com/#3205-ball-bearings/=16fzp12

When I clicked on that link in post 1 advertising for that zero place is popping up as I wander around. A common thing for links put in forums like this. I found the c3 rating in the description, at least I think so. One could look up the ratings and try and figure out if it was max capacity.

ABEC-3 is somewhat of a "quality" rating... higher numbers indicate a bearing made with closer +/- tolerances to the standard dimensions for that bearing.

C3 is an "internal clearance" rating... A C3 is designed with more internal clearance than a "normal" (N) bearing.

Not the same thing...


Say a piston manufacturer makes pistons in different "grades". Grade 1 is guaranteed to be machined within +/- 0.005" of the blueprint dimensions. Grade 2 is guaranteed to be manufactured to a much closer tolerance of +/- 0.001" of the blueprint dimensions.

Now let's say they sell the pistons in Standard size and 0.030" oversize... both sizes are available in Grade 1 or Grade 2 quality.

A standard size piston of either grade wouldn't work too well if you needed the 0.030" oversize piston...

Similarly, a "normal"clearance bearing (of any ABEC rating) is not the same as using the specified C3 bearing designed to have more internal clearance than normal.

So Bill, Are you saying the Husky engineers are wrong? The Husqvarna manuals show the cutout (filling slot) must face outboard. This is the way I have built my Husky motors for the last 18 years with out a single failure.

Marty

the reason to turn the cutout to the outside is because the oil passage built into the case will feed the bearing oil on the ignition side
on the clutch side it is not critical as they are in an oil bath, but the book says out so it faces the oil supply, sort of redundant due to the inner bearing gets its oil through the outer bearing

So you put the cutout on the out board side and at 6 o'clock on the bottom of the bore so it is fed oil?

Your right with straight cut gears there's to thrust forces horizontally. With helical cut gears with ball bearings it matters which way the bearing is installed or the cutout hammers the balls.

the cutout does not need to be at the very bottom, this is the Husqvarna 86 2-stroke engine repair workshop manual page 26