Countershaft Sprocket Puller Recommendation

I have an "aged welded" countershaft sprocket on a '73 400 that neither my cheap (harbor freight) 2 leg or 3 leg pullers can budge. It needs rather 'thin' feet to the legs to get between the sprocket and case, yet beefy enough not to bend when trying to put enough torque on the center bolt. Been searching ebay w/ no luck. I think HVA has the original tool, but w/ shipping to the US it's about $125 US . thx, Rick

If the sprocket is heated it will expand. Could try and put as much force as you dare with what you have, heat the sprocket, shock the center bolt of the puller. A smallish oxy fuel flame would be best, air acetylene next best. Some tapers do essentially spot weld themselves I do not understand how.

A puller with slots instead of arms, bolts at the sprocket notches, a drilled plate to keep in place?

I was in a pinch last spring. Even though the motor had been apart and cases split over the winter, I could not get the countershaft sprocket back off with heat or the puller. In order to get to Unadilla with what I wanted for gearing, I ended up having a rear sprocket custom made. I'd still like to get the damn thing off at some point, and have thought about making a puller like the original one. But I know what you mean about the HF pullers. They just don't work.
I'm also thinking, there's only so much heat you can use. We had it so hot, I was worried we were going to melt the seal.

Heres a puller from my tool box that works on my 73 450 case. I don't think they're made any longer but there are a couple on Ebay for a good price. Its a US made Clesco gear puller. Its far stronger than the cheap pullers on the market today. If the one you buy doesn't have chamfered jaws similar to the stock puller you need to grind them a bit in order to get between the sprocket and bearing retainer.

If I had a stubborn sprocket that wouldn't come off I would get out the oxy acetylene torch and turn it red if need be. The sprocket and countershaft seal may be ruined but you'll get it the sprocket off. Keep in mind that the countershaft won't get as hot as the sprocket due to all the gears and oil on the other side of the case, they'll be acting as a heat sink.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-2-...143299?hash=item2136502703:g:R40AAOSwY~1aREw7

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CLESCO-WHEEL-PULLER-GEAR-BEARING-MADE-IN-USA-FREE-SHIP-/162806343473

Thanks Crash! What service you even provided links! Just purchased one. I think in prior attempts I wasn't heating sprocket hot enough just keeping the torch on for about a minute or so. I'll try to get it very hot and try this puller and report back!

The screw or bolt of those pullers looks kind of small if there is a real battle going on there.

I would not heat it red hot.

If one was to demolish the sprocket in a way that only a thin section remains near the taper other tactics can be employed. You can tell when it is thin with an oxyacetylene flame because it gets red almost instantly in that section.

I can see evidence of shocking on that puller attached to the sprocket, having a hole through for a rod to twist really compromises the limits that tactic can be used.

It looks like one puller has a flat brass part that pivots relative to the screw and the other has a point.


Good luck

Fran

I remember now what I used my Clesco puller for. A few years back I was repairing a four speed motor I got cheap. The flywheel had been tightened to the point of snapping off the end of the crankshaft. In addition there was a sign of water intrusion which means rust.

I tried to use a Bosch flywheel puller with heat but no luck, the puller popped off the flywheel and stripped the threads on the puller. Then I employed the Clesco puller by installing the jaws through the flywheel window. I tightened it up and put the oxy acetylene torch on the center of the flywheel. I was leery of the amount of heat being applied because I didn't want to harm the flywheel but I knew if need be I could find one. I heated it quite a bit and at one point BAM! the flywheel popped off the crankshaft.

The puller worked great and didn't appear damaged and the flywheel was okay.

Many years ago I visited John at Vintage Husky and he had a HUGE box of OEM pullers... they are probably all gone by now but it couldn't hurt to ask?

John at Vintage Husky hasn't been shy about raising prices on parts that are dwindling in supply. We all understand that in the face of restorations and general repairs prices tend to go up. I think one may find his sprocket puller(s) are no exception.

I recently enquired about a set of used-empty 1970 400 center cases and his price was $700. I didn't need them that badly. Which by the way, I'm still interested in a set that are reasonably priced if anyone has some they're willing to part with. We can exchange ideas on the definition of "reasonably priced" in a PM.

Stripping pullers been there done that. I borrowed a puller, broke it ended up buying two.

Put moly on the puller threads. If no moly use anti seeze. Use grease, use oil.

While considering if excessive heat is necessary to remove the sprocket I remembered a post on here from George at Uptite saying they would leave the puller on the sprocket overnight after tightening it a lot. He said they would sometimes find the sprocket off the next morning. You may want to try this approach before applying excessive heat to reduce the chance of damage to the sprocket.

Some food-for-thought:

I was always taught to hammer the central bolt of a puller to 'shock' the assembly. HVA sent out a Service Bulletin (June 1973) that pointedly states not to - see attached pic, Line #3. Instead it states to alternately hit the legs.

Thinking this thru, it seems this would be more effective as it 'shocks' the sprocket rather than the shaft - sort of like wiggling the sprocket off. This and Crashaholic's suggestion would be the first steps.

Motorick - Did you have success with your sprocket?

Excellent point Vinskord. I think its worth noting that this also applies when pulling an ignition flywheel or primary gear. I have memories from 40 years ago of hammering a flywheel puller bolt in an attempt to release a flywheel from the crankshaft. I've since learned that this can throw a crankshaft out of balance. I suppose one could get away with a couple of taps but laying into it with a 10lb hammer would most likely end up being a costly mistake.

Thanks for all the help! So far, 45 yo Husky 1, new tools 0 . Puller arrived yesterday and is much better than prior pullers; however, even after heating and using a cheater bar on the puller it seems like it wants to stay together. Tomorrow I'll put on the left hand nut (to hopefully keep the puller centered) and heat it up as much as I can with my propane torch. If that fails then I'll probably try to drill holes on each side of the sprocket and use my big puller w/ slots for bolts.

Also bought the nifty snap on tool for removing my frozen barrel studs... came today and the results to date are no better than 2 nuts locked together. I'll try heat at the cylinder base where the studs threads and see if that might help. Patience (which I lack) is definatly a virtue when it comes to these old bikes!

I'm cursed! Spent the big bucks and bought the hva-factory sprocket puller. It arrived today and I instantly opened and took it to the workbench to FINALLY remove this sprocket from hell. Cinched it up tight, put my air impact driver to it and .... the new tool broke . Yep it's enough to drive a man to drink, which I'm doing as I'm typing : )

The instructions above say put 30 ft lbs. Perhaps there are spare parts for those. Like it implies usually can twist a bit more after shocking. Might need 3 slot puller. Might need a bolt in every sprocket notch, no center screw,round plate with holes, nuts.

Put a copper block and add weld, shape welded blob.

Years ago when I was buying stuff like Bigbill is now got a 450 engine. I think they might have have gave up, no nut sprocket yes.

I seem to recall talk of changing the shaft to one with splines. Most likely would be the small splines like 360.

I don't know if this will help you, but you could always contact the seller and get some measurements to see if it's the same. Looks to be the leg you need to replace the one that broke.
Ebay item # 192072942800

While you’re splitting the cases for a rebuild, replace the shaft with a later splined version. Then these tapered shaft sprocket hassles will be behind you. If not, keep in mind that new large-taper (some of the oval case shafts had a smaller taper) countershaft sprockets can be challenging to find, especially less than 14 tooth. If you do reuse the tapered shaft, follow HVA’s instructions on lapping in a new sprocket on a tapered shaft – otherwise the same problem will exist next time.

When you get the replacement puller jaw, follow Crashaholic, fran, and Bigbill’s advice:

1. Use antiseize on the threaded center bolt
2. Max 30 ft lb torque
3. Tap on the legs - not the center bolt
4. Let sit overnight

Use heat on the sprocket as the next step and if the sprocket is trashed already, use a die grinder to cut a couple of grooves in the sprocket to weaken it. Then follow the above steps again.

Sorry to salt the wound...but I would NOT have used an air gun.
I'm with Vinskord's advice. After sitting overnight...give the puller center bolt another half turn...walk away...repeat...
Use heat...propane torch level heat...NOT red hot...evenly around the sprocket...avoid the shaft as much as possible.
Also...assuming the sprocket is worn out...figure a way to get in there with a fine grinder and slice a slot into it.
You ARE going to get this off!!!