Well, I did it and it seems to be working, I will report on MPG tomorrow. On the left side of the bike, where the 2 wires come out of the water temperature sensor (WTS) I cut the 2 wires. The wires that went to the ECU, I placed on the middle prongs of the double pole, double throw slide switch. I put the WTS wires on 1 end of the switch and on the other end of the switch I put a 150 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor, total cost about $5. I tried starting the cold bike with the switch on the 150 ohm position, wouldn't start, as was my guess, too lean, I then switched it to the cold WTS and BAM, fired right up, rode it about a half a mile and switched it to the 150 ohm position and it ran fine, like a carbed bike still warming up and the choke has been taken off. My temp light (which is the signal from the ECU to turn on the fan) came on as soon as the bike was switched to the 150 ohm position, meaning that my bike sees the Radio Shack 150 ohm resistor as some temp over 230F. I think I will go get a 200 ohm resistor and try that tomorrow, I'd like for the ECU to think the bike is about 220F.
Saturday, 60F, I got 35MPG running the 150ohm resistor and the rad covers off, the motor usually runs at 180F on the rich map and the rads uncovered. With the 150ohm, the lean map got the engine temp up to 200F with rads uncovered, full cooling and no hassles. Today Sunday, I will run a normal dualsport loop and see how it goes.
I ran a normal dualsport loop with 40 miles slab and about 15-20miles dirt, mostly singletrack slow stuff, where I switched to my main map to get cooler, richer running, ended up with about 30mpg. This coming Saturday, I'm gonna do a dualsport ride I used to do 3 years ago, 100 miles of slab and about 30 miles of easy trails and run the lean map the entire time.
Realize this is a very old thread but does anyone know if the CTS has an effect on ignition and/or if the ECU will shut down spark is an overheating situation? Do the resistance values in this thread apply to the '13/14 Redhead's as well?
