clutch stuck ?

Hey guys, I stumbled on to something the other day. My clutch usually sticks from sitting between rides and after all the adjusting I could handle I just got use to it. I did switch my trans oil to atf f type and it did make a huge difference but it still would be stuck when I try to take off. I use to roll it out of the shed and pop it in gear then hit the brake a couple of times with the clutch pulled in and it would break free after a few minutes. Then I stopped using the brake and would just pull in the clutch and rev the engine and it would break free after a couple of revs . So then the other day I started the bike and I thought what the hell why not just pull the clutch in now while I am warming the engine up for a minute or two . I gave it a few revs with the clutch pulled in and got ready for take off and popped it in gear and it went right into first with out the launch it usually gives me. Just thought I would share this and hope it helps out.

you need steel clutch plates from phil..that will put and end to it. my 250 will even start easily in gear now. dont think it would hardly do that when it was new!

ahh, so thats it . do you remember how much ?

plus the aluminum plates contaminate the oil much faster..granted i never fan my clutch except for dire circumstances as the 87-88 is a much torquier lil beast than its earlier brethren. i have about 12 hours on them with no decrease in performance yet..heres a link

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/catalog/item/3736875/5471184.htm 155 dollars. not cheap but neither is stalling or wrecking in the woods and denting your pipe or wear on the tranny from trying to unstick it...mine was developing a pretty good creep. it wouldnt always try to crawl on me but you could never push it backwards in gear with the clutch in. very frustrating when you screw up on a trail or are in a bad position.

I believe type F tranny fluid has microscopic grit in it. Some auto tranny clutch plates have the grit in the plates and some don't so they put the grit in the oil. The type F has a higher running temp too so it can take the heat. We used the type F in the drag racing auto trannys that had the B&M clutch plates in them.

Thanks for that. I will try it for sure. That seems like a simple solution to what I've been dealing with for years. I usually rev the bike, stomp it into first while holding the brake, & then it would be fine. It's just that initial gear engagement that sucks.

i got tired of breaking that damn clutch loose..whatever method it takes it still sucks..

Disconnect the clutch cable on the case to make sure you have some play in the lever. There could be too much play so the lever isn't pulled far enough to release the clutch too. If there is too much play in the lever the center rod in the center of the clutch needs to be lengthened. The set screw and 10mm nut adjusts the length of the rod and the play in the lever.

It's only the clutch sticking from sitting cold. Once the initial gear engagement is made....mine is fine.

your bike may operate like that for quite some time..if its something you use with any regularity it will develop others symptoms mentioned above..if you only ride the bike a couple times a year you may not need to replace the clutches..big bill is right tho, the internal adjustment helps in overall feel as well.