Installed a 7602 clutch slave & now my rekluse will not engage. It will only engage for 1/2 sec at 7000+ rpm then immediately disengages. Rekluse isn't the issue, as it was just checked 15 hrs ago and all was perfect. Checked my installed gap in Rekluse went way up to over .040" (ideal is around .030 -.032 or so.), after new piston install. Reset clearance to .032 and still nothing. I can easily push the piston in the cyl. with my thumb, so it's not sticky or binding....... Anyone else had this problem?
I'm not clear why you are so excited. I am sure that Clay will be at the computer tomorrow. Is it possible that there is air bubble somewhere in the hydraulic fluid?
Yeah, you've got got something wrong, air in it or a leak. When you pull the lever it disengages then bleeds back under the pressure of the clutch. Try bleeding it again. If that doesn't work recheck your assembly.
Did you bleed the clutch from the bottom up with a syringe? That's the proper way for a Magura hydro clutch.
I could not make the piston work with the rekluse also. I tried on (2) 2008 TC450's with new cylinders and all. Went back to the stock piston and worked perfect on both bikes. I had ordered zip ty cylinders to try again, but they never sent them. Then I traded the 450 for a 250...My brother still has his 450, if it fails I will try again to get the zip ty cylinder abd re-install the 7602 piston...
Sorry, wasn't intending to come across as overly excited, although I was a bit frustrated last nite after screwing around unsuccessfully with it for 3 hours. (note to self -don't type when frustrated or drinking) I don't believe it's an air bubble, as it would compress. If you have air in the clutch line/slave on a stock clutch, it won't operate the clutch properly because the air compresses. Also, the piston moves back in the bore fairly easily under thumb pressure. I thought about this overnite and I have a possible theory that the new piston won't slide all the way back in the bore, due to the position & shape of the new sealing x-ring and wear in the bore from the old piston(there's over 300 hrs on the stock slave cyl. bore). All it would take is a difference of about .030" or so. The overall piston length is exactly the same between the stock one and the 7602 one, so that isn't the issue and nothing else has changed. I'll check it with a depth gauge on both pistons and see if there's a difference. It happened also to Gestion, with a Rekluse, so it could be an issue to be addressed. Anyone else have this issue with the slave/Rekluse combo?
I always suspected its the oe cylinder that's not consistent enough with specs and clearance to receive the 7602 piston. Not the rekluse, but seeing your post this morning got me thinking both my installs where on rekluse equipped bikes...maybe something there.
Just chatted with another fella that just installed one on a Rekluse equipped bike with similar hours to mine. His Rekluse engages fine......
slopoke, Can you let me know which model z start, and which model husky you are riding. PM, Email, phone, whatever is easiest for you. I just got off the phone with Rekluse and it looks like a solution should be fairly simple, but I need to know some more details. Anyone else having this problem could you please do the same, and post which model z start, and model husky. Thanks. Clay info@7602racing.com 719-274-0606
OK, for anyone else having this same problem. Since our piston has a longer skirt for added stability it is bottoming out in the cylinder bore earlier than the stock piston. To my knowledge this has not been a problem with any bikes with the stock clutch, and it only seems to be a problem on some bikes with a Rekluse clutch. There are 3 ways to gain back that extra clearance. The first is to shorten the clutch rod that travels from the slave cylinder to the clutch. One end of the clutch rod is aluminum, and the other end has a steel cap. Grind or file off material from the aluminum end a little at a time until there is enough clearance. On some models there is also a 7/32 ball bearing between the clutch rod and the throwout on the Rekluse clutch. This ball bearing can be replaced with a smaller bearing to achieve the needed clearance. The other way would be to drill the relief hole on the back side of the throwout a little deeper. I think it is a 1/4 inch hole. If you decide to either shorten the clutch rod, or drill the relief hole deeper it is necessary to have a set of calipers or a depth mic so that you can accurately measure the changes you are making. It's also probably best to only make changes in .01" or 1/4mm increments to avoid removing too much material. Thanks Clay
After running in a bit the clutch was slipping a bit. Saturday evening I took another .015" off the rod, for a total of .065". Did a 280km ride yesterday and it worked flawless.
