First of all....Thank you for a forum for our later single cam bikes. I have suffered clutch drag since owning this bike. I have done everything reasonable to eliminate drag. Yes it does get better as the bike is warmed up, but is still there. Can be a real pain on technical trails where stalling occurs. Running an appropriate petroleum based 4T oil. Checked the basket for grooving,...only thing I can think of is the the pushrod is machined too short or is slightly worn... Is there anything specific to check with these models? Thanks in advance
Have you pulled the clutch cover off and adjusted the clutch release lever, on the engine, free play? There is a screw and lock nut at the center of the clutch hub to adjust this.
I have adjusted the freeplay to spec. Something else is wrong or it has always been that way from new. Can't imagine someone would buy this bike with this problem new. Thanks anyways.
Just to be clear, free play of the cable and free play of the clutch lever on the engine are different. What model do you have?
im guessing you have a 99 410?? couple issues.. first, unhook the cable, at both ends, make sure it glides in the case easy..check for binding, and dirt..hang the cable from a tree, garage rafter ect, and spray light oil in the cable. let it drip all the way down for an hour, add oil a couple time during the hour. if it works easy..then hook the cable back up. turn the lever adjustment all the way in, then on the clutch basket, adjust the rod with the lock nut and screw, till you have no play in the cable, then back it of one half turn, lock the nut down, pull the lever a few times, then fine adjust the play at the lever. 2mm play is all thats needed at the bar lever, 3 mm at engine lever. use oil made for a wet clutch, Castrol GTX 4T works great in my Huskys, i did have to clean the hard plates up a little bit as some build up had grown on them from nasty oil. avoid ROYAL PURPLE...no matter what any sales guys says...its not good for your Husky...i know first hand..and the worse mistake i ever made...cost me over 1,200.00 for a 10.00 quart of oil...and im still flushing the crap out. heres another little trick that will help clean the clutches. drain the oil, clean the screens. buy a quart of Dextron II ATF and a can of TransX, half a quart of ATF, and HAlf a can of TranX, take the bike on a short ride, and easy one..a field, or down the street for a short trip, 5 or 6 miles, dont rev it hard, just put and go through the gears, let it get up to running temp. then drain {completely} clean add your oil of choice, i do this a couple time a year, and it seems to keep the clutch crisp, and clean the crud from the hard plates. i run straight ATF in my trials bike, and change it after every event...shifts a little notchy sometimes, but the clutch works awesome.. and i dont shift my trials bike, as much as i use the clutch.
