• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clutch Actuator Replacement Part?

Pipedream

Pipedream

Husqvarna
B Class
Hello,

I bought my 2006 sm610 last year and started having problems finding neutral wile running. Checked my adjustment on linkage and found it to be already tightly adjusted. Did some more digging and found this...

Pretty sure this is my issue. I found this item number in a spare parts manual. 8000 816761
Searching this number hasn't gotten me far, might actually be for the injected 2007. Anyone know what the best plan of attack is?IMG_20190316_183848.jpgIMG_20190316_183910.jpg
 
Well... I broke it off trying to straighten it. It still meshes up well, So I put 2 small tacks on either side with the tig torch. Brought it home from work and made sure it didn't catch on anything as it operates in place. I may be able to save it yet, As I don't think I will be able to find another one. I am worried about welding hardened steel. I am pretty sure it is going to loose a bit of strength from the welding process and become brittle. Pre and post heat are going to be a must. Keep me in you're prayers..
 
Is it hardened? Didnt try mine... I broke one too,and permanent fix would be hydraulic conversion like 630. Tight fit but doable,atleast when rebuilding engine. I believe welded can be much stronger than stock(there is plenty space for weld),so if you did it properly,you might be ok for good.
 
So, I welded it up straight and true. And it fits good. Closed everything up and readjusted both clutch adjustments, added new oil. Went in and out of gear and neutral on my work stand with zero issue. Very happy!
I did damage the spring o ring in between the actuator seal bearing, I just pulled it out. Does the actuator leaver need to be pressed in? Maybe it seams easier because the spring o ring is out now?
 

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Clutch push rod is only thing that holds it in place,so if it went easily,everything is fine. If you need to use force,means its twisted.
 
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