The schematic shows switch #X9010 as the hi/low beam with a Brown, Yellow and White wire coming from the switch. I would have to take time to trace the wires but my guess would be that the white is the high beam. (I didn't confirm this so you are on your own). On the schematic X9010 is on the lower left of the drawing. If you look at X9070/1 & X9070/2 you will see the switch arrangements for the circuits. A simple SPST 12volt automotive relay should do the trick make sure it is capable of the amp draw you need. An automotive relay is typically good to 30-40 amps of current. To power the relay (assuming the white wire is the high beam, you need to confirm this), then you would tap the white wire and run a lead to the positive portion of the relay, then find a good ground (I would run one to the frame somewhere or even back to the battery). That will power the relay when you activate the high beam switch. Then it is a simple matter of bringing the leads from the lights back to the automotive relay for switching. There is a link to the wiring schematic located here in post two of the thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/wiring-diagram.33664/
Bingo! Exactly what I needed. I'm planning on giving myself the option of hi beam/flood/spot or hi beam and either one or hi beam only. Can't wait to see how these things light up the night. I'm impressed so far- nicely made. Even the supplied harness and switch are top quality. Thanks!
I got the Rigid Industries "Dually". One spot and and flood. I've got another post that shows them mounted up. Good stuff!
From memory the plug on the back of the headlight is a 3 wire plug, Two vertical and one horizontal on top. The top wire is the high beam, (pretty easy to work out once you have the plug off he headlight and a multimeter. My aux lights are pretty low powered, and the past could of days I've been riding through some light rain and fog so i'm glad I wired them up independent of the headlight switch. Because the low beam turns off when the high beam is on, it's not possible to use the lowbeam as an ignition trigger for stuff like heated grips and my aux lights, but i've wired the little light above the headlight (which has no other purpose) for that.
I've got a Cyclops H4 on the way... anyone know the wire gauge for the stock high-beam? I've never used a posi-tap before, but I think I'm going to try one on the high-beam, while I have it apart. That way, when I [most likely] add aux lights, I'll be ready to go (assuming I want the aux lights on with the high beam, which I normally do). I don't know what size posi-taps to buy, though.
Here's a link to Posi-Lock http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html The posi-tap connector, 20-22ga, red usually the wire from aux lights is even smaller, so a little creativity maybe needed to keep the smaller gauge aux light wire into the connector, like shrink tubing the wire housing so it fits tight into the connector, or shrink tube the wire and connector together, sometimes it takes few different sizes of shrink tubing to build up to what you are trying to do. Good idea, tap into that H4 LED so you dont have to tap the stock harness
Technically all you want to run from the high beam wire is a wire (run it down under the seat) that you will drive a small 12v relay with (other side of the relay coil goes to battery negative). Now when you hit the high beams, your relay engages- this gives you the ability to run +12v straight from the battery out to your accessories. There's not an appropriate way to run more lights off of the high beam wire, it's probably 20 or 22ga. Your aux lights will probably run at least 18ga (from each light) Adding the relay is really simple.
Any time I've run aux lights, I just tap into the high beam wire and connect it to the positive from the aux lights. So, the aux lights are on when I switch the high beams on. That way, there's no extra switch to bother with for the aux lights... simpler and less stuff the deal with (or break). I know a lot of people like a separate control for the aux lights, though. Not me.
Not talking separate control, just on/off with the high beam. It's Ohm's law, you can only safely pass so much current through a given conductor. I've got no doubt lots of people do it that way and the result is aux lighting that isn't as bright as it could (should) be and warm wires!
Your right. I should have clarified. I tapped into the high beam wire for the LED dimmer/controller switch(not as a power source for the lights), which may get tossed, because i think it is faulty
I never knew that... guess I should re-think this and try it your way since I don't know much about this stuff. Thanks!
Any suggestions on where to connect the relay if I want the lights simply to be off when the bike is off? i.e. something depending on ignition and accessible? Thanks.
