And Ti's light weight wouldn't really help out because our valve speed is pretty dang slow compared to high-revving sportbikes.
I was surprised to find all is well at 1250 miles. Was prepared and borrowed my local shop's shim box, but it wasn't needed. I will say I cursed that thermostat a few times... Let's ride!
So, how long does a valve adjustment take for you guys? An hour? How long realistically should it take for a trained mechanic? So far the dealer and another shop have done the servicing, but I'd like to try it myself. The service guy at the dealer said, "Your valves need adjusting. It's going to take an hour".
It took me about 2.5 hours. I had never adjusted 4t valves before and that time included driving to the dealer to get a shim. It was really easy.
Depending on their rate, an hour seems like a bargain if you don't want to mess with it. The valve clearance check is the easy part, the rest is just taking everything off and the valve cover so you can get to them. If they need a different shim there is nothing to that either, you pull the clip off the cam follower shaft and the follower moves over so you can remove the shim. A magnet works well for removing them. They are marked, you just figure the next size up or down that you need to put the clearance in spec. Unless you have a shim assortment you have to figure out what you need and get them. As mentioned, some shops will swap them for you, it's not like they wear out or something.
Thanks for the info Mike/CJ. I don't know if that hour included putting the bike back together again or not after the adjustment. Their hourly rate is $108, so when he came up to the waiting area to tell me I was a little suspicious. Especially the way he said it. After I got back home I found oil leaking from the case due to not tightening the bolts enough and them filling it right to the top of the hole. Had to drain some out. I haven't been back since. Anyways, it doesn't sound too hard to do a valve check. Whenever that hose kit gets done I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
3k miles. i checked all in spec one exhaust is .01 away from outta spec. the bike gets revved pretty hard. its best to take the whole radiator hose off to get the valve cover off. i just unbolted and wiggled it out. there is almost no way out of crushing in some radiator fins without removing the radiatir completely. the next 3k ill check and take the whole rad off completely im sure i will meed shims then. then fill the radiator with water wetter. sigh.
I've done it twice, and in my opinion just unbolting the radiator worked well enough. Sure, it only gains the slightest of additional wiggle room, but enough to avoid damaging anything. Now granted, this is what works for me when I have an additional set of hands handy.
+1 I've never removed a hose or radiator either, just loosen upper radiator bolts and remove the lower ones and the cross brace bolt. That gives just enough clearance to carefully finesse the cover out and back in. Don't try and force it, just find that sweet spot where it goes on. Also take note of the upper most water pump cover bolt. It protrudes through housing about 1/4" and also gets in the way for getting the valve cover back on. Backing out the bolt until flush helps some. I plan to put in a shorter bolt next time. _
figures. i rush it a bit. having to do this in a carport. id take my marry ass time if i had a mancave
I did mine yesterday for the first time or anything like it for the first time. You guys are right. Piece. Of. Cake. 'cept for the cover removal. Just unbolted the radiators like EricV suggested and pushed(muscled) the thermostat up. Cover wiggles out. My intakes were in spec., but both exhaust were out. Magnet works better than tweezers getting them out. So, from unbolting, reshimming, and bolting the cover back took me about 1hr 20min. It was kinda fun actually. And you're rewarded with the sound of a purring Husky.
250 hours and about 6600 miles. Still within specifications. One intake is getting tight, but nothing to be concerned about. Love it!
If I do oil changes and minor repairs myself, I´d like to see a qualified mechanic look the bike over once a year and do things like valve clearances etc while he´s at it. Same goes for the second wire mesh oil filter in the clutch housing.
There's nothing magical about that oil screen. It's a quick and easy check. That said, I've got nearly 12,000 miles on my 630 and haven't seen a speck of debris in that screen. Valve checks aren't a huge deal, either. The only tough part is getting the valve cover on and off. Once you've done that a few times, it's a piece of cake.
