Bigbill
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I'm been confused in the past. I started using maxima super M mixed 40-1.
With my 98 Husqvarna 250wr the MSM @ 40-1 was fine. But with the left kickers cast iron sleeves caster is recommended @ 20-1? That's less gas more oil over the 40-1. Less oil in the mix scares me. Gas isn't a lubricant.
With the 40-1 mix I would have awesome compression when the engine was freshly rebuilt but as we ran it, was easier to kick. They lost a little compression. Now my '86 400 wxe had good compression and no piston slap.(orginal) hardly ridden. We rode it with MSM 40-1 mix and ran it hard one day. I noticed it developed a slight piston slap.
At first I didn't know about doing a leak down test. I went through about 3 rebuilds on different brands. At 40-1 there wasn't much oil in the crankcase. No heavy film at all. I started doing leak down testing and found were the PO used a screwdriver and hammer to remove the cylinder leaving a area that caused an air leak. I checked all the mating surfaces for uneven areas. Lightly filed all the burrs. I checked the reed box and parts for flatness with a straight edge too. Now my bad luck changed. My leak test would last almost 20 hours holding the pressure. My huskys ran great on 40-1 once jetted. But the Honda cr125 continued to eat pistons. It passed the leak down test.
We jetted it too. My son ran it really hard. This still had the cast iron sleeve. I'm thinking the orginal ratio was 20-1 also. Again more oil, less gas. We got the huskys to finally stay together. It was a learning process. When ever I asked someone about the mix ratio they would say pick a number. But you need to jet to it. I finally got the Honda to stay together but I'm thinking if I used the 20-1 ratio life would of been better.
Losing compression on a newly refreshed engine during the first wear in process points to not enough oil. What got me thinking is my orginal 84/250wr AC husky. It's got compression like it was just rebuilt. No piston slap. Running 20-1 mix.
Could there be a unwritten rule of thumb with what two stroke oil and what ratio to use in the cast iron ac engines and the nickelsil LQ engines are these two engines that different when it comes to the mix ratio and oil were using. A synthetic/with a castor oil added like maxima 927 for the castiron sleeves at 20-1 and the maxima super M for the nickelsil cylinders?
Unless there's a big difference between the quality and what's in the two stroke oils?
I know another two stroke oil question. Experimenting with different two stroke oils can be costly at $150/$200 pistons.
Or do some riders mix there two stroke oil themselves by using a synthetic oil with castor oil added? Making your own blend.
Maybe I should call this post two stroke mix for new riders. I didn't mention a ratio mixing cup. I seen many new riders have no clue as to what it is. I seen some mix my eyeing the color of the gas. One lad brought his bike to me that wouldn't start. The crank bearing was so hot and loose the internal flywheel took out the stator. When it finally cooled the bearing was tighter. His gas mix was clear, no oil. Go figure. So every kid that's new to dirtbikes riding our first discussion is about a ratio mixing cup. As he rides up to my house killing every bug for square miles.
They either put little oil in the mix, use any oil that dad has for the lawn mower, or add too much oil.
I'm not perfect we need to educate the youth. They have no one to advise them.
With my 98 Husqvarna 250wr the MSM @ 40-1 was fine. But with the left kickers cast iron sleeves caster is recommended @ 20-1? That's less gas more oil over the 40-1. Less oil in the mix scares me. Gas isn't a lubricant.
With the 40-1 mix I would have awesome compression when the engine was freshly rebuilt but as we ran it, was easier to kick. They lost a little compression. Now my '86 400 wxe had good compression and no piston slap.(orginal) hardly ridden. We rode it with MSM 40-1 mix and ran it hard one day. I noticed it developed a slight piston slap.
At first I didn't know about doing a leak down test. I went through about 3 rebuilds on different brands. At 40-1 there wasn't much oil in the crankcase. No heavy film at all. I started doing leak down testing and found were the PO used a screwdriver and hammer to remove the cylinder leaving a area that caused an air leak. I checked all the mating surfaces for uneven areas. Lightly filed all the burrs. I checked the reed box and parts for flatness with a straight edge too. Now my bad luck changed. My leak test would last almost 20 hours holding the pressure. My huskys ran great on 40-1 once jetted. But the Honda cr125 continued to eat pistons. It passed the leak down test.
We jetted it too. My son ran it really hard. This still had the cast iron sleeve. I'm thinking the orginal ratio was 20-1 also. Again more oil, less gas. We got the huskys to finally stay together. It was a learning process. When ever I asked someone about the mix ratio they would say pick a number. But you need to jet to it. I finally got the Honda to stay together but I'm thinking if I used the 20-1 ratio life would of been better.
Losing compression on a newly refreshed engine during the first wear in process points to not enough oil. What got me thinking is my orginal 84/250wr AC husky. It's got compression like it was just rebuilt. No piston slap. Running 20-1 mix.
Could there be a unwritten rule of thumb with what two stroke oil and what ratio to use in the cast iron ac engines and the nickelsil LQ engines are these two engines that different when it comes to the mix ratio and oil were using. A synthetic/with a castor oil added like maxima 927 for the castiron sleeves at 20-1 and the maxima super M for the nickelsil cylinders?
Unless there's a big difference between the quality and what's in the two stroke oils?
I know another two stroke oil question. Experimenting with different two stroke oils can be costly at $150/$200 pistons.
Or do some riders mix there two stroke oil themselves by using a synthetic oil with castor oil added? Making your own blend.
Maybe I should call this post two stroke mix for new riders. I didn't mention a ratio mixing cup. I seen many new riders have no clue as to what it is. I seen some mix my eyeing the color of the gas. One lad brought his bike to me that wouldn't start. The crank bearing was so hot and loose the internal flywheel took out the stator. When it finally cooled the bearing was tighter. His gas mix was clear, no oil. Go figure. So every kid that's new to dirtbikes riding our first discussion is about a ratio mixing cup. As he rides up to my house killing every bug for square miles.
They either put little oil in the mix, use any oil that dad has for the lawn mower, or add too much oil.
I'm not perfect we need to educate the youth. They have no one to advise them.
