Another two stroke oil thread. Facts vs info vs real world?

I'm been confused in the past. I started using maxima super M mixed 40-1.

With my 98 Husqvarna 250wr the MSM @ 40-1 was fine. But with the left kickers cast iron sleeves caster is recommended @ 20-1? That's less gas more oil over the 40-1. Less oil in the mix scares me. Gas isn't a lubricant.
With the 40-1 mix I would have awesome compression when the engine was freshly rebuilt but as we ran it, was easier to kick. They lost a little compression. Now my '86 400 wxe had good compression and no piston slap.(orginal) hardly ridden. We rode it with MSM 40-1 mix and ran it hard one day. I noticed it developed a slight piston slap.
At first I didn't know about doing a leak down test. I went through about 3 rebuilds on different brands. At 40-1 there wasn't much oil in the crankcase. No heavy film at all. I started doing leak down testing and found were the PO used a screwdriver and hammer to remove the cylinder leaving a area that caused an air leak. I checked all the mating surfaces for uneven areas. Lightly filed all the burrs. I checked the reed box and parts for flatness with a straight edge too. Now my bad luck changed. My leak test would last almost 20 hours holding the pressure. My huskys ran great on 40-1 once jetted. But the Honda cr125 continued to eat pistons. It passed the leak down test.
We jetted it too. My son ran it really hard. This still had the cast iron sleeve. I'm thinking the orginal ratio was 20-1 also. Again more oil, less gas. We got the huskys to finally stay together. It was a learning process. When ever I asked someone about the mix ratio they would say pick a number. But you need to jet to it. I finally got the Honda to stay together but I'm thinking if I used the 20-1 ratio life would of been better.

Losing compression on a newly refreshed engine during the first wear in process points to not enough oil. What got me thinking is my orginal 84/250wr AC husky. It's got compression like it was just rebuilt. No piston slap. Running 20-1 mix.

Could there be a unwritten rule of thumb with what two stroke oil and what ratio to use in the cast iron ac engines and the nickelsil LQ engines are these two engines that different when it comes to the mix ratio and oil were using. A synthetic/with a castor oil added like maxima 927 for the castiron sleeves at 20-1 and the maxima super M for the nickelsil cylinders?

Unless there's a big difference between the quality and what's in the two stroke oils?

I know another two stroke oil question. Experimenting with different two stroke oils can be costly at $150/$200 pistons.

Or do some riders mix there two stroke oil themselves by using a synthetic oil with castor oil added? Making your own blend.

Maybe I should call this post two stroke mix for new riders. I didn't mention a ratio mixing cup. I seen many new riders have no clue as to what it is. I seen some mix my eyeing the color of the gas. One lad brought his bike to me that wouldn't start. The crank bearing was so hot and loose the internal flywheel took out the stator. When it finally cooled the bearing was tighter. His gas mix was clear, no oil. Go figure. So every kid that's new to dirtbikes riding our first discussion is about a ratio mixing cup. As he rides up to my house killing every bug for square miles.
They either put little oil in the mix, use any oil that dad has for the lawn mower, or add too much oil.
I'm not perfect we need to educate the youth. They have no one to advise them.

honestly...do we need another thread where we all say what ratio we run and how everything will run fine on 40:1? i know you have taken part in those same threads..

http://www.klemmvintage.com/oils.htm

Google Helmut "Speedy" Claussen.... He runs all his vintage bikes 100:1 with Opti-2 oil.

I'm sorry for beating a dead horse.

Is there two different oils we should be using for nickelsil cylinders and cast iron sleeves cylinders. Just something to think about. Everyone has there way of doing things. I'm second guessing what I did in the past. Since there's more Husqvarna info on the net now with you guys too. In the past I had the only Husqvarnas. I know the cast iron sleeves relate to all the older bikes. I'm thinking less gas more oil better performance equals longevity too.

They say the nickelsil cylinders have better cooling with the liquid cooling. There's no barrier between the two different metals like the castiron sleeves. The heat transfer means a lot. Food for thought.

No in my opinion the oils on the cylinders can be anything you like, as you've mentioned jet to your oil ratio.

I've ran sleeved cylinders at 82:1 no adverts effects. That was a kmx 125.
And I've seized nikasil on 30:1
The excess wear on your cylinder when running in could be a plethora of things.
Was your cylinder honed? New piston and rings, or just rings? The way you run in makes a difference too.
Many state ride it like you stole it, manufacturers state heat cycles.
I say one heat cycle till it's warm then take her for a ride not thrashing or lugging it then after your ride she's good to ride.

Also you need rings that are for your cylinder ie appropriate for either nikasil or cast.
Believe it or not some aren't cross compatible.

But 50:1 In everything I run.

Regarding mix ratios, this is (IMO) is the most accurate and pertinent info on the topic

https://www.maximausa.com/pdf/Oil Migration Sheet.pdf

Yes he is great guy too, know him on FB

https://www.facebook.com/helmut.clasen?pnref=friends.search&qsefr=1

nice! this should really be something that people read. so much confusion about why certain ratios are chosen. there are people that preach and preach 60:1 then they post a video that shows their riding style and its almost trials like...people do have different riding styles, with different engine sizes, different oils too

Here's some answers great find. Thanks.

We rode most bikes hard. There meant to be ridden. This tells my story between 2t mix ratios vs riding styles. The oil migration and oil retention. My gut feeling is I need to use a 20:1 ratio and maxima 927 with the castor blend. I emailed maxima and now wait for the answer. I think we're on top of this subject.

It's riding style vs 2t oil ratio. Plus what oil were using for the application. The bottom line is it's not picking a ratio number and jet to it. It's riding style. We can have plenty of oil at a low rpm yet starve for oil at a high rpm.

I'm sorry but I'm on both sides of the fence being a ex engineering lead tech and the product end user. On one side I want to know why it broke and on the other side how can I prevent it from breaking. Or what am I doing wrong.

Thanks guy for not jumping all over me.

you do not need 20:1..
that would be for road race smokers that never come off the pipe. you dont ride like that

I ride with Helmut, and he keeps telling me the same thing. Don't know how he does it.

OTOH, I just raced a 6hr hare scramble with him, and noticed that he doesn't wind his bike out like some. Maybe it's because he's 80 yrs old

When I road raced a TD2B in the '70s it was 24:1, pump gas and Castrol-R, either on the pipe @ 9500 - 11000 RPM or on the brakes; nothing in between. Never stuck a piston, but I was only an amateur and didn't know enough about jetting to get myself in any real trouble. Didn't win many races, either, but it sure was fun!

With today's lubricants I would think that mix ratios would be a lot less critical than they were back then.
JT

These bikes were originally 20:1 ratio. What has changed? The riders style isn't factored in. If your on the pipe all the time where's your mix ratio at?

My '82 Husky Race Handbook list it at 4%, which is 25:1 ratio.

oils have improved dramatically since they wanted 20:1..
not sure what the purpose of this thread was...are you just telling us what you are planning to run your bikes at? trying to justify the decision youve already made to run your stuff at 20:1?

I toasted a few new engines in the beginning. I leak tested them, jetted them. Why? From what maxima says you need to adjust our mix to the riding style. I didn't know the amount of oil in the crankcase (lube) changes with the rpm.

I just want to be sure I have enough 2t mix and the correct 2t oil for the castiron sleeve.