Another COVID Project - 2010 TE250

I dropped into my local bike shop for some spare parts and asked the question "I'm after a used bike for my son. Do you have any trade-in bikes that need some TLC?" The dealer said "Yes! We have a 2010 TE250 out the back. It used to run but now the fuel pump won't prime and it won't start".

We worked out a fair price and I bought it home. As luck would have it we went into a COVID lockdown the very next day for 2 weeks so my timing was perfect.

The bike was pretty rough with plenty of broken bits, rust and squeaks.

Before photos.




After a quick inspection I noticed some green patina around the relays on the rear subframe. Upon unwrapping the loom in the area I found a wire completely dissolved by corrosion. The wire was the 12V feed to the fuel pump and fuel injector.



I jumpered the wire and the fuel pump primed so I fixed that initial fault. The bike had very little compression and wouldn't start so it was time to dig deeper.

All the swingarm, linkage and wheel bearings needed to be replaced



I checked the valve clearances. The exhausts were half closed and the intakes had no clearance at all.



The valves were fine so I cleaned them and re-used them.



The flywheel woodruff key was sheared.




Work done:
Gave bike a thorough clean and initial inspection.

• Speedo not working and the plastic case is cracked - Repair corroded power circuit board trace in speedo. Glued case back together and resealed. Tested OK.
• Bike turns over but won't start. Observations were fuel pump not priming, no spark and "Open Circuit Injector" ECU fault code. Diagnosed fault to a corroded, open circuit wire in fuel pump and injector circuit near the rearmost fuse. Repaired wire and tested ok. Cleaned corrosion from the 3 power fuses.
• Bike then ran once from cold however wouldn't start again. Checked valves. Exhaust are 1/2 closed up and intakes have no clearance left.
• Drained all fluids and removed engine from bike

Engine work

• Removed cylinder head and valves. Cleaned carbon deposits from valves with ScotchBrite and WD40. Valves and seals OK. Reinstalled valves.
• Removed flywheel and jammed starter clutch. Woodruff key sheared and flywheel timing retarded about 20 degrees . Removed galling from flywheel and crankshaft then used valve seating paste to remove high spots.
• Replaced worn sprag clutch in flywheel. Cleaned and resurfaced the clutch wear surfaces with wet and dry sandpaper.
• Removed metallic deposits from clutch, flywheel and crankshaft sensor.
• Reinstall valves and reshimmed to specification.
• Reinstall cylinder head, camshafts and water pump.
• Install new woodruff key then flywheel with loctite 638 and reinstall starter.
• Fit new detent spring, detent ball and o'ring to kick starter.
• Clean and paint stator and clutch covers (remove flaky paint and corrosion) and refit to engine.
• Reinstall engine into frame and reconnect wiring. Ziptie all wiring to prevent vibration and chaffing.
• Replaced leaking oil filter o'ring and installed new oil filter.
• Serviced starter motor. Resurfaced brushes and armature contact area.

Chassis work

• Replaced all bearings and seals in the swingarm, linkages and lower shock mount.
• Glued cracked headlight shroud.
• Clean and regreased headstem bearings - they were in great condition with no rust.
• Removed dent from RHS footpeg.
• Installed bark busters.
• Serviced forks, clean and fresh oil. Set oil level to 110mm.
• Had rear shock serviced. The main shaft had bad stone chips so was re-chromed. This was caused by the missing rear shock absorber cover (mud flap).
• Replaced front and rear wheel bearings, seals and spacers.
• Cleaned brake callipers and greased sliders.
• Straightened lower chain guide.
• Replaced missing speed sensor cable. Tested speed sensor ok.
• Install new radiator braces.
• Reinstall radiators, cooling fan, throttle body and body panels.
• Repair wiring for the taillight, stop light and rear indicators.
• Fit new rear sprocket, rear mudflap, front mudguard and swingarm chain slider.
• Fit new spring on rear brake pedal.
• Flush clutch and brake fluids. Fluids were not too bad. Front brake MC had lots of corrosion inside the cap.
• Replaced 2 broken rear wheel spokes.
• Refit rear tyre.
• Replaced corroded rear rim lock.
• Installed dB killer insert into exhaust to make bike quieter.
• Replaced rattly floating rear brake disc for a fixed version.
• Put Battery on charge for 2 weeks. Tested OK.
• Refit horn and tested ok.
• Replaced open circuit and corroded connector for rear brake foot switch.
• Fitted alloy bash plate.
• Fitted grip donuts.
• Adjusted throttle free play and lube throttle cables.
• Fit new rear brake disc with new bolts.
• Fit missing fork clamp bolt.
• Adjust steering stops
• Adjust head stem nut
• Adjust chain tensioner
• Tighten subframe bolts

Startup Preparation

• Refill coolant, engine oil and fuel tank.
• Start engine and check all sensors, electrical functions and mechanical functions. Tested OK.
• Set suspension clickers to default settings.

Test ride and check for leaks and any issues.

• Adjusted suspension sag, handle bars, levers and brake pedal for comfortable rider position.

After shots:





We are in our 5th lockdown currently which we hope will end next week. Weather permitting we can take it for a shakedown ride next weekend.

Wow hhdwtmtw, another great job of restoration and report!!!
I have to ask what tipe of paint and ral code you have used for ignition and clutch covers since I have to paint the ones of my WR, that is still dismounted on the bench waiting for parts, and yours seems like they just came out of the factory...super nice and original looking!!
As soon as the WR is done I have to start my (hope no lockdown) rebuild project of another TE310R that I recently bought that was neglected by the PO (this 310 is really a special bike and the PO was aware of this but he used it as a farm bike with no maintenance)... after the purchase when I came to drain the oil this was what i was left with:

(Oil never changed from 2013, it was like draining oil from an old tractor)
P.S for TE 250 2010 I have two ECUs (still in their original box) that came in the box of the TE 250 2010 power up kit-meo replica that I don't need since I have two my 2013 (I only keep the silencers)

Thanks.

I first used a soft wire brush then wet and dry sandpaper to remove the corrosion and obtain a smooth surface again. Then I cleaned the covers with acetone followed by a base coat of etch primer. Then I applied 3 light top coats of enamel.

The paint took 7 days to fully harden - I was worried I didn't shake the cans to mix the paint enough but it's just that enamel takes a while to fully harden in colder weather.

Dulux Etch primer:



Dulux Silver Enamel

Obviously an experienced mechanic or at least life long hobbyist. Nice work.

Has TXC ECU and 12pt injector

Nice job!

Hi,
Unfortunately I wasn't able to find in Europe the paint you have used. Instead I found and used this paint which is made for aluminum wheel that is alcool-gasoline resistant. Finger crossed it will hold well boots and washings
And this is a comparison beetween the WR clutch cover painted with makota and a spare new clutch cover for xlites