82 430XC won't start

A friend of mine dug his 82 Husky out of storage ,(been buried in the garage for 15+ years). I have been working on it , getting it cleaned up and am attempting to get it running. I replaced the air filter and manifold, changed the oil, cleaned out the carb,(everything was gummed up and stuck)..... but it just won't start! I pulled the plug, grounded it and kicked it over and there is a spark. Also the plug is wet with fuel.
Any advice would be appreciated!

PS: I was going to try and push start it but it appears that the clutch is not working..... the bike will not roll with the clutch pulled in.

Thanks,

Walt

Also, these old Huskies flood very easily. A big hill with fresh plug and wire is a great place to start.

Thanks for the help...more issues: I am trying to remove the cable from the coil...I assumed there was a screw down in there that the cable threaded onto. When I tried turning the cable it just crumbled and broke at the hole. I used a small screwdriver and dug out the cable all the way to the bottom but no screw...it appears that the cable was glued in. So now I need a new coil?

It is a "Motoplat" (made in Spain) Any ideas on where to find one?

you could buy a pit bike cdi/coil and mount that cheap/better spark pezberg did this on his bike and improved starting, i used a casoli moto performance unit but you will have to make up a plate to mount it on.do a search it should come up.

i would roll it down a hill and crash start it anyway . u dont need the clutch . just snick it into 2nd gear to start it and ride it round for a bit . make sure the kill switch works before hand . clutch might free up as you try use it. there is prolly nothing wrong with the bike as noone could ever kickstart one anyway .

Thanks for the info.... I am sending the coil to Vance Smith to have a new cable installed. :-)

Walt

When trying to get an old Husky running after they been asleep for years always pull the head and see if any rust in the cyl.
Never try to kick it unless you know there is no rust, what happens is if there is rings scrape the rust off then it impacts into the ring groove locking up the ring.
So after cleaning the carb new airfilter and all the little things you try to get it running with no luck probably because compression is to low (stuck ring).
Cleaning carb and all are a must but have found must faster and eaiser is to do leak down check, then pull cyl flush out lowerend.
Which you will have to flush anyway because when pulling the cyl most likely will get a lot of rust and dirt from the studs that fall in lower end.
A little gas then garden hose it then fill lowerend with gas again, drain it then airhose it dry put some oil in the hole for the RH main bearing and some on both sides of the rod.
Check cyl piston and rings for wear. If see wetness behind mag then the seal is leaking if you smell gas in the trans the main seal is leaking.
Important once ready to start make sure throttle is working PROPERLY seen to many bad crashes when finally getting it to run only to see it run WFO only to be stopped by running into neighbors parked car, across the street mail box, wall , swing set,pool, weve all seen the bumper sticker" Shit Happens"
Also idle screw backed out so slide drops all the way down so it won't idle, if slide is held up choke will not work( can't create enough vacuum to pull fuel to start).
As mentioned big hill is mush easier on kick mechanism, if clutch is stuck and is running just hold it in it will break loose by just riding it around just be ready when it does.
Later George

worth pulling the clutch cover and giving the plates a quick sand down with some wet and dry to freshen the surface and deglaze it

I second the motion to make sure the Slide in the Carb is falling all the way to the bottom. When You let go of the Throttle You should be able to hear it when it closes.

Good news....its running!! Had coil wire and spark plug cap replaced, rebuilt/cleaned carb,(new pilot jet and floats), new spark plug, removed clutch cover and cleaned up the plates. Started on 5th kick and runs great.
Let it cool off, started up again on first kick! So next is new tires, rear shocks refurbished, and new fork seals and oil......then we go riding!

so what all did you have vance do? just attach a new plug wire and boot? i will be sending an ignition or two to him to have gone over..what was the cost to redo your coil?

He installed a new coil wire and cap and tested the coil. $15!

You might have a good look at the Intake Manifold for Cracks. If there are some small ones now they might tear on the 1st ride. This happened to me once, and I ended up with a really lean running engine. Wile Your in there replacing those really old Reed Valves with some fresh ones might be a good idea to.

Forgot to mention...I did install a new intake manifold.Thanks

This bike has Ohlin shocks that need rebuilding...any suggestions??

Ohlin remote res shocks aren't hard, no special tools. A vice on a workbench is very handy, some picks and a brake hone from HarborFreight for a few bucks. Husqvarna-parts.com sells the kit with most every part to fully swap out, and the right oil. Can fax instructions if you like. Just did mine and tweaked valving some, they work great.

send them ohlins to Drew at W.E.R. (works enduro rider) I think he is in N.J. Yes putting them together seems rather easy but you need a couple of tools to do it right and getting the oil and gas in there is the trick. Drew can do it no problem.