76 WR 360 the good, bad, etc...?

I see a 76 360 for sale. Any significant problems with this model? reliability, spare parts, etc. What's the going rate on these in the US? I would use it for cross country racing.

I do not consider there to be any significant problems The ignition is FEMSA point and I can say I prefer points as I never got a fried electronic ignition to work with a matchbook striker. You will find it has the original GP frame as there were no specific CR or WR frames back then. As I still have 2 post 77 ML frames, if I was to get one, it would get the later frame. The 77 360WR carried over the 76 frame while the 77 Crs got the frames I have now. I also have a 76 WR frame and a 77 360WR frame that came with Bultaco Frontera forks on it.

Prices depend on condition, who is selling it, and who wants to buy it. Published numbers run from $600 in fair condition to $2500 for unrestored but mechanically sound. Fully restored could run to $4200.

Dependability and handling is good but if you love torque you may want to pass.

My experience comes from owning/racing a 75 360cr. In 1975 I was interested in the new frame and light weight, I was not disappointed in the handling. The 360 replaced my 73 450cr so even though the 360's handling was a huge step up I was greatly disappointed in the lack of torque. I had moved up to a big bore bike several years earlier to escape having to ring the neck of my 2 stroke to pull a sand wash or climb a hill. Seeing I was 18 at the time I didn't have any interest in researching power delivery so it turned out to be a poor purchase for me.

I never had that 360 but the 69 360 Sportsman I got being told it was a 250 Cross had no loss of torque anywhere but that is not the same as the 360WR you are looking at. I never heard that much complaint about the 76 360 but most did not require the slogging ability of a 400WR or the 450WR that preceded the 360WR. It would be better than the 75 360CR for offroad because of the greater weight on the FEMSA flywheel. Same as the Bultaco Sherpa and the 82 Cota 349 I have. The 75 360CR was a direct production of the bike Mikkola won the 1974 championship with. Unlike the 390CR that replaced it, the 360 engine needed the heavy flywheel. The 77 390CR was able to run enduros with just lights added.

Actually the 75 360cr came with the Femsa and the 76 360cr and wr came with the motoplat, which is odd since the 76 250wr came with a Femsa. Even the 77 360wr Burleson Replica ran the motoplat. Not sure what HVA was thinking when using the motoplat on these 360wr's. I believe the Femsa had a better track record than the motoplat when applied to a season of 80 mile hare and hounds.

Eurofreak here are a couple parts from a Cycle World article that you may find helpful. For what its worth keep in mind the only difference between the 75 360cr and the 76 360wr motors is the trans ratio, ignition, and carburetor, I think the 76 came with the Gurtner.

what a weird husky...i guess we all assume they have good mid range punch (at least with the bigger bores)...thing looks like it has a great, long pulling top end.

The 4mm stroke increase and improved porting made all the difference with the 390

I have several 360s 77"and 76s wr&cr all with mikuni carbs.I think there a great bike they pull like a tractor.Take a wr in a corner or up hill in to high a gear and it will lug on thru just turn the throttle it will climb out of it I would recommend a 360 all day long, parts seem to readily available to.

I agree with Dumpbear. My 76 360WR pulls great in all gears and I'm a big man. I run a 38mm Mukuni with Boysen reeds and replaced motoplate with power dynamo ign.. Now easy starts and exciting rides in any gear.

Sounds like the wr trans and Mikuni helped to smooth out the power band that the cr lacks. Good to know.

I have a 77 WR 360. Great bike, and it is pipey for a big bore. To me, it only has the grunt of a 250 down low, but comes on up top. Really fun motor. Brakes are mediocre (even for the day), and she likes to go straight more than she likes to turn. Mine apparently had a motoplat (it was in a box when I got the bike), and has a powerdynamo now. My only complaint is that I'm short and old, and kicking that big bore over, with a left handed kicker, isn't easy. It's really hard if you stall out on the trail/track somewhere, and are tired and short and old. All in all, its a real lot of fun to ride.

I have the exact same problem Kim750, pushing 63 and and short.....so I made this for my 360CR, world of difference, 2" longer and your boot lands below the peg, not into it:<)

77 was the first year for the 390, which replaced the 360. I wonder if your 360wr is leftover stock from 76 or were dealers actually taking delivery of 360wr's in 77?

My cousin bought a new 76wr360 and i bought a 77wr360 new a yr later the 76 had a gurtner,aluminum air box cover,and the forks were shorter than the 77 his 76 had a motoplat like my 77.He took the mikuni of off mine and put it on his and took it for a ride when he got back he ordered one for his bike.The 77 came with the black plastic air box cover my 77 is a burleson replica so it came with all the extras that he had to buy separately. They were different bikes but only slightly.

What did you use to make the longer lever? A blank from something else or do you have the means of creating the spline? I would like something like that for my 390.

I read that the 360wr Burleson replica was offered in 77 so that's probably why a 360wr was available the same year the new 390 came out.

That 360 Burleson Replica looks like a totally functional enduro machine. It is said that the option was only $100 more.

Hi Jimspac, no, it wasn't a blank, I measured up the original and modeled up one with one that is a 2" longer version and machined it out of a piece of billet 7075 alum. The spline was a issue though, but I got lucky and found a kick start shaft on e-bay for $12 and turned the end as a pilot and pressed it through to create the splines in the bore,.... just winging it and got lucky After that , then cut the slot, threaded the bolt hole and used the original kick lever arm, bolt,spring, ball bearing and to put it on the new one,all reversable . Couldn't be more happy:<) The shaft/spline tool is available to anyone that wants it and then pass it on to next guy, it did what I needed it too Monday, I will attach pics of the model ,so it more understandable . Awesome site! Love it:<)

$200 more for a Replica alum bars, enduro clock, time card holder, route sheet holder,preston petty head lite and rear fender with lite, curnutt shocks,and a mikuni.A pretty good deal for 200 bucks. The article in cycle world said it came Burleson replica decal and the round mag cover and i know mine didn't have either one.