As some of you may recall, I just rebuilt my engine. It was running fine for about a tank of fuel. Rode to work this morning, and it started running like piss at low speed part throttle, almost stalling (did once) choppy idle, bucking at low speed. Wind it up, no prob, pulls hard, rev's quick. It was cold out, and I though I may have leaned it out too much when I adjusted the JD last, even though it was running good for a couple rides. So I made some adjustments before leaving work, didn't work, made it worse. Stopped, played with the idle adjustment and set it where the idle was strongest, liked a leaner setting, settled on 2.5. Set the cruise setting to 3. accelerator pump set to 3. Jumped on, ran good, much better I thought. Stopped for dinner, and then it started acting up again on the ride home. Stalled at a light, almost didn't restart, same bucking, hardly idle. Got on the freeway for home and ran the piss out of it, bit of an Italian tune up, no problems, until I slow down. it is cold out, about 1C this morning, and about 8C on the ride home. Don't think it's related to the JD because it's random and started acting up before I made any changes. Suggestions?
My mates 630 with a jd tuner ran like that and was never right till we reset the jd tuner to base setting and tuned it using ibeat .
Interesting- 2011 TE630 here- did the air pod filter mod and added a FMF powercore 4 last week. At low RPMs the only "good" zone for the JD tuner is at stock or a little less- I thought this strange because it means stock fuel levels for idle and low (green) settings. But it runs well like that. For the yellow and red I have it set to 5 and 7. Which made my top-end power insane. But like I said- at least with my bike, any added fuel from the JD at idle or "low" (green) makes it run reallly bad.
Yea. It runs good with those settings. Then it doesn't. Might pull the JD tuner and just run stock/pu to see if it's at least consistent.
Check both ends of the cable on your cold startup lever, might be causing it to run too rich down low.
Good tips. Thanks guys. I'll check that cable first, then try removing the JD box to see if it at least runs consistant. If so, there is a local dealer with ibeat, hopefully they don't want an arm and a leg to change a few fuel settings.
While you are on the IBeat: check the Throttle Position Sensor it could be faulty check the error code log it may give you some pointers Also a faulty temperature sensor could be at play here
I'd pull the plug and see if it is black. Keep in mind: Our bikes with PU plug are rich down low. If you're adding fuel to that w/ the JD you are likely way rich. .
Are there any air/fuel graphs online? It would be good to see one to judge settings by. I just had to go by the way it responded and plug colour. My JD tuner instructions only had 630 recommended settings - Green- (3/4), Yellow- (4), Red- (3), Green/Blue- (3/4), Yellow/Blue- (4), Red/Blue- (4/5) I hope you get the problem sorted easily bushwa
When my JD power commander caused my bike to miss throttle inputs and severely effect the bikes performance, I took out the JD tuner and plugged in the original ecu connector. Bike runs the same if not better than it did with the JD unit. My bike has a Yoshi exhaust and modded air box so maybe that is why the previous owner installed a JD tuner. Regardless, bike runs awesome with stock fuel air settings.
For the first time in 4.5 years my bike wouldn't start last weekend. It has the JD & for some time I've felt it was running rich. Pulled the plug & it was black & no spark. Replaced it with an iridium plug & reset the JD to the recommended settings. Immediately on trying to start it it let out a loud bang/backfire, then started after about 10 seconds of turning it over. Ran like a rocket after that. My problem is I have the Arrow cans & ECU, so am not sure what base JD settings to use. I do know the bike goes much harder with the JD than without, although it's heavier on fuel usage.
Well, tuner is out, and it fired up without any backfiring. Going to have to wait a few days for the weather to warm up before I can ride.
Your bike should be fine without a tuner even if it has exhaust, air box mods. Ive been running mine without one for a few months now. No issues whatsoever.
Update to this thread. I've since obtained ibeat. There were some old codes related to o2 sensor (possibly from before it had the power up) and the temp sensor, but that was replaced when I did the rebuild. Cleared codes. Calibrated TPS. Set CO settings to a little leaner than recommended in the ibeat thread, 100, 103, 117. I've since put about a 1000km. Bike runs/pulls really good, some of the time. I'm still getting intermittent hesitation/misfire/low idle. It's really apparent at low speed, low throttle opening, but it's also there at higher speed/cruise, just not as noticeable. I wrung it's neck through the gears on the weekend, and afterwards it ran really good for the rest of the day, nice and smooth on steady throttle cruise, no missing or anything. I'm going to replace the plug, although it's been done this year as part of the rebuild. I'm also going to drop my netbook in my back pack with ibeat hooked up and run a log file to see if I can notice anything with any of the inputs/outputs when it's acting up. I'll report back with any findings.
Ok, ran a log file on the way to work this morning. Still experiencing this misfire feeling. Over 28 minutes, I noted a few steady cruise time spots where the bike was misbehaving, but nothing showed out of place in the log file, other than the RPM varying slightly, but all of the channel values were steady. It did record a couple of anomalies however, which I didn't actually feel on the ride. At about 20 minutes in, under steady conditions, 10.6% throttle, 3900 rpm, it recorded for a period of 0.23s (3 data points) where the spark advance spiked from 19 to 978.3. This values on rest of run was normal between 8 and 30. About 2 seconds later, the injection pulse width spiked to 20205 for a period of about 0.5s (4 data points). This value was normally around 2500 under closed throttle and 10000 under full throttle. One other oddity, the manifold pressure and atmospheric pressure readings were not equal before the bike was not started, like I would expect them to be. 101.3 for manifold, and 89.5 for atmospheric. Here's a few screen shots: The full run: A period of steady throttle where I felt it was surging/missing. And the anomaly: Let me know what you think, ideas, brainstorming, suggestions? Thanks.
I bet the Mikuni TPS is malfunctioning intermittently. Maybe try unplugging/plugging a couple times and look for corrosion. .
Thanks dynobob. I'll give that a try. I can't see any spikes or dips from the TPS in my log files, but it's worth a shot. I had frayed and melted wiring from stator to the reg/rectifier, I've fixed that, I'm getting good 14.5V now, but still doesn't feel right under steady load, low speed.
Just got back from a 1000km road trip. I reckon average speed was about 100km/h even though the avs function on the hud is not working. My bike performed great at all speeds including the 118km/h (5000rpm) I was cruising at on the highway. I did not experience any hesitation or hiccups from the fueling system. Even at 150km/h the bike was still pulling hard! A lot of these bikes experience issues with the stock setup at lower speeds. Even mine from time to time will skip a beat at low cruising speed; however, it is not as pronounced as the stock bikes. There is clearly an intermittent issue on your bike that hinders proper voltage to the Mikuni unit. I suggest checking all wiring to the Mikuni unit thoroughly and if it all checks out, you may need a new unit. Nonetheless, if you can live with this issue, don't even worry about it. These bikes are not known for having the smoothest throttle input...
