630 Rear Brake Foot Pad Adjustment

Discussion in '610/630' started by Fast1, Feb 18, 2012.

  1. RDTCU Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '11 630SMS
    My biggest concern would be if you dropped the bike and caught the brake pedal and damaged the master. You could always make a larger pedal stop to prevent that, wouldn't be too complex...
  2. kirbybikes Husqvarna
    AA Class

    If you look close at the photo's I posted above, I put a sleeve around the pedal stop to increase the diameter. Still makes for an adjustable stop just a larger diameter.
    twolane likes this.
  3. twolane Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    San Francisco
    It is an XR clevis. I think it set me back about $7.

    As for fattening up the stop- I guess some JB would work.... maybe lay a bunch on there and then sand it down to size/ shape?
  4. twolane Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    San Francisco
    I think that's a MUCH better answer than JB weld! Nice call!
  5. Stolenfant Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Charleston, SC
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    610TE 2009
    Other Motorcycles:
    Hodaka, Hondas, Cagiva, etc.
    Thanks fdor Great Mod! I'm only 5'9" with 29" inseam, and after PivotPegs, wish I had a little more range to drop the rear pad. The photos toward end really clinched the understanding. Get most of my "stuff" from a local Honda shop since Husky is nearly a state away, so shuold have one of these before weekend.
  6. BiG DoM Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Ok - so the thread says 630 but mods apply to 610 as well.

    I have done a clevis mod without using the Honda part and it works really well.

    Essentially very simple: You cut off the lower flattened part of the threaded plunger rod, remove the top nut and replace with a 2mm thick washer (the handbook states to retain this gap - additional washers can be inserted if neded), and reuse the bottom nut in the clevis as before. This gives enough lower adjustment without the brake lever contacting the footrest bracket (standard bracket not lowered). I added a small piece of high density rubber to increase and cushion the lever stop gap. See pics.

    I have also some time back fitted a HH break lever tip which helps me with contacting it = I ground down the OEM tip on the top to allow the HH tip to fit level and clamp in place. See pic.


    IMG_1060.JPG IMG_1061.JPG IMG_1063.JPG
    jtemple likes this.
  7. BiG DoM Husqvarna
    AA Class

    So I decided to turn up a larger diameter adjusting stop for the brake lever after all - see pic below (it is not in the final position of adjustment, just fitted in place)

    IMG_1072.JPG
  8. jtemple Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Papillion, NE
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    2013 Kawasaki ZX-14R
    Definitely envious of you guys that can machine your own parts!
  9. mike54 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    Ok just to revisit this, my rear brake pump has failed due to (I assume) having no stop. The lever sits below the stock stop rendering it useless. My set up is this:

    Honda clevis, top nut and washer on the upper side of the push rod. I've been using a modded lever which has a hammerhead tip welded on and overall the lever is straighter.

    So, I want a once and for all solution to this. Does anyone have access to or has a friend who can do CNC? I want a new lever where the arm is 10 mils lower overall and is straight. If no one can do this I'll talk to my local shop and get a price for say, 10. Thoughts?
  10. RDTCU Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '11 630SMS
    You mean straighter in the section that goes under the case to get it lower? Would be nice for some cases. I don't have as much trouble with the height using my Gaerne Supermoto boots, as they have a good neutral ankle angle and plenty of flex. With my TCX street boots, I had a little trouble covering the brake with the stock stop setup, so I turned a bigger stop and replaced one master cylinder jamb nut with a thick washer.

    If you get TOO low on the tip of the lever, you might snap it off or pull apart your master cylinder in a low-side, or be more prone to catch it on stuff offroad.
  11. KXcam22 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Kamloops, BC, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 SM630, 2017 300XC
    Other Motorcycles:
    08FZR6;07CRF450;98CBR900RR;02KTM200
    I will need to do this. I put some +5mm lower pegs on and the brake pedal is high to begin with. I might try a safety cable from the brake tip to the frame to keep it from braking in a lowside. Cam.
  12. K7MDL Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Woodinville, WA
    Some other tips

    For those with minimal tools you can fab up a larger adjusting stop with a hacksaw, file and drill. The key is find a thick piece of aluminum plate or easier, a section of aluminum solid rod. If using rod you just slice off the rod end to the right thickness then drill an off-center hole to fit your bolt. If using plate, hacksaw a square piece and cut the corners off it then file it down. Not much harder than wood. I found bar and plate stock of all thickness/diameters at the local metal salvage yard. Lots of machine shop recycle pieces there.

    For the brake pedal tip: I ground off the stock rivet, drilled a countersunk hole for the engine facing side of the brake arm and used a countersunk bolt. This lessens the sharp point of contact against your clutch cover when you inspect the hardness of the ground on the right side. I also put on a KLM replacement brake tip.
  13. blueknob Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    pa
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 te610
    Other Motorcycles:
    1979 harley davidson superglide
    In lowering my brake pedal, on my 610, I took the stock adjuster, and with some aluminum brazing rod, added some material to it, so it would contact the pedal. 20140201_101102.jpg
  14. BaronVonDarrin Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Norristown
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 te630
    Other Motorcycles:
    wr250r, CL175
  15. Fast1 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    Does your rear tire turn freely without any pressure on the brake peddle?

    Lift up the back end and spin the rear tire while off the ground.
  16. Joe Schmoez Husqvarna

    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2013 TE511

    Ha yeah 6'2" over here I think its the same problem you're having.
  17. Joe Schmoez Husqvarna

    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2013 TE511

    It does turn freely. There is about 3mm of play before the rod hits whatever it does in the cylinder before it applies the brakes.