More info, got the TE610 dialed (my technique dialed) for cold starting, enrich valve open, 3-4 kicks through with comp release, nice stroke on the kick from just past TDC and she fires off well, quicky pop off enrichment and work the throttle a bit and shes ready to go.she idles well if not a little high from my setting. Hot starting is still very very tough, anyone have any tricks ie open the throttle a little for more air, less vacuum, or never touch the throttle etc etc , remember TE has no AC pump so there is no squirt/flood effect.
what works for me.. i flip the choke on...kick it, it will kinda start, flip off the choke, she lights up.. dont touch the throttle..you wont like it...sore foot.
thanks chuck, and "dont touch the throttle..you wont like it...sore foot." yeah i know i been getting some taste of the BTDC ignition blues,,,,,the old pogo stick effect (mule KICK), but yes only when opening the throttle when kicking. I will go play with my new playmate this evening.
My first husky was a 93 610 with some wild porting, hi-comp piston, up-tite booming pipe and other crap. Seemed like 70hp, might have been. Was a learning experience to start. These want you to stick to a method you just need to find the method it likes.
Robertaccio, I made a simple hot start circuit for my wxc410 as she is a major pain to start once hot. Took about an hour or so and maybe 5 dollars worth of stuff from the hardware store. I drilled a hole in the carb boot between the carb and cylinder head. Then inserted a straight brass barb fitting in the hole. The type used to connect two pieces of tubing in a straight line. Gooped everything up nice and good with some rubber cement so it would seal. Then ran a 2 foot length of 1/4 OD tubing from the barb fitting up to the front number plate. The hardware store had a nice plastic 90 degree on/off valve with push on ends. Again, gooped up the end of the tube with rubber cement and pushed the tube into the valve. Then ziptied the valve to the front fork for easy reach. I gave everything a day to set up and then tried it out. Worked like a charm! Hot starts on hot days are a 2-3 kick affair at most now. Used to be a major fight on hot days especially after a get off. I check the valve and barb fitting every now and then for leaks by spraying starter fluid around them with the engine running and listen for RPM increase. So far everything is holding up well. A little long winded, and maybe not what you want, but I got tired of trying to figure out a hot start technique. This makes it as simple as flip valve open, kick, close valve, and ride away. PIc of the valve, and mounting location. [/IMG]
wow, very cool, a simple hot start fresh air inlet (same function as the FCR hot start) Hmm now ya got me thinkin!! I guess you just guessed at the ID size for the proper amount of air? Or there is the carb boot size limit to size anyway. nice process and not long winded at all. very good engineering effort, simple and effective. Basically a controlled air/vacuum leak.
So I have a 510 aircooled, but still with a 40 mm nonpumper dellorto, no real decomp.(has a decomp that engages at the bottom of the stroke that you can then hold on for clearing kicks) jetting is pretty much the same, and really sensitive on mixture screw Cold starts as others have described, choke one kick maybe 2 sometimes it runs sometimes it doesnt , then no choke. Winter here so i turn up the idle by one turn to get it going then back it off as it warms.I find priming kicks with the decomp help to get things moving. Get it right and two kicks she away, otherwise it can take longer... takes a while to learn the feel of the engine. Hot... can be tempermental, but definately clearing things with the decomp helps, and a 1/4 turn on idle screw never goes astray for me. Never had any joy with using the throttle, only frights! I like the hot start switch idea, but as I have never had a modern 4 stroke its new to me!
I did the same thing, with the exact same compression fit valve and made for it flex line with a double barb fittting punched into the manifold. bike runs great down here at sea level with 70 deg (again) will probably get tested this weekend up at altitude and with heat.
I had an 86 model 510TX aircooled with dual pipes like yours but we fitted a flat slide mikuni and that thing was a 1 (or a few) kick starter hot or cold. That bike was very fast but i never got the forks to work well, the rear ohlins shock was fine.
Hot start looks good! On my '01 TE400 and WXC350, the hot start drill is (if it won't fire) is hold manual decomp open and kick 10 times quickly (which is easy with decomp open) to clear it and then kick. It usually starts first kick. I got to perfect this on the 350 recently, as my WR144 was down and I needed to do enduro trail work on a very hot and humid day, with lots of stops and starts.
Dang 'taccio! You act fast. I was gonna give some more detail on my hot start then I read you already had it done. Hope yours works as good as mine does. have a good ride this weekend.
I had 2 610's a 93 and a 95, the 93 had the SEM ignition and found that the hot starting issue was the stator not the carb! The 95 had a kokosun and started fine hot or cold! I have another 95 right now starts hot or cold.
ok quickie,,,, thanks to all of you for the tips, used a combo of Chucks and Colo set up and she lit every time hot or cold. Now i got the real kick stroke feel. However things still are not exactly right. New premium unlead, full tank, both fuel valves open. Mix screw does function, as does idle (mech) screw, I get er hot keep the idle fairly high. turn in mix screw to raise idle (lean) then lower the slide some with the idle screw. I get her to easy start on the lean side some slight popping on decel. Butwhen I go into cruise mode there is pronounced flat spot just off the bottom of the slide opening, then she just starts to get flat and sputters out. But will restart with the hot start procedure (got that dialed now). Tank is venting and all vent hoses are new, think I will need to check the carb again, maybe the float valve, or float height? and verify the carb manifold is not warping(?) under heat. Mix screw has been adjusted between .5 turns out to 3 turns out with idle raised to compensate, just for testing. Alt 3500 temp 85deg F. it still appears to be a carbby issue, but i am getting bad thoughts about the ignition now. I found that 1.5-2 turns out and it starts best and at 2 has less decel popping (slightly fatter), needle is set on #2 (from top) any needle pos suggestions, raise it and go more rich? That reminds me, what is the float height reference point to at least check it
I had the home made hot start set up installed then pulled the manifold fitting and sealed it with a screw. Its still installed on the bike. I found that after setting the float level correctly and with @ 1.5 turns out on the mix screw she starts very easily with 1 or 2 kicks hot or cold. I am now very confident with the 610 and ready for more adventurous (read further from camp rides). We rode yesterday on some of our favorite single track and I got hit with a broken throttle cable, so I just turned up the idle and rode out!! worked out ok. PS all my clean up has been great and pressure lubed the clutch cable but neglected the throttle cable and it it bit me!!!
note this is a follow up, the 610 starts easily when cold after a few compression release strokes with the enrichment, and now she starts hot within 2 kicks. the problem was the float level it was crazy low, after dissassmbling the carb 2x and trausting the float setting I researched and got the setting. The bike is really good now with no issues at all. and heck the thing really rides well too. PS I built and installed a hot start but have since removed it as she does not need it.
