1. Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

360 Auto 1st gear clutch hub

Discussion in 'Vintage/Left Kickers' started by Roon, Aug 18, 2017.

  1. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    try the Rad hard Chrome guys, they seem to know about all that stuff or YSS on Oz VMX
  2. vintagecs Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Lebanon, IN
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '78 390OR, '76 360 Auto, '74 125SC
    Other Motorcycles:
    Penton, Yamaha
    I have a fresh rebuild on my 360 auto that will be run at the White Lightning AHRMA event next month. I trust the motor and plan on running it hard. My question then, is do you all think the damage done to this motor is from the corrosion on the hub?
  3. motomwo Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Imbler Oregon
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    Many vintage big bore and automatics
    No the rust on the hub drum/shoe contact surface was not the cause of the trans decentigrading. Roons trans had a lot of rust/corrosion/pitting on the bearing shafts and the surfaces the freewheels ride on. So the shaft and bearing surfaces just chewed up the freewheels and then the free wheel pieces took everything else out.

    Did you take your auto trans apart and inspect the internals?

    Marty
  4. vintagecs Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Lebanon, IN
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '78 390OR, '76 360 Auto, '74 125SC
    Other Motorcycles:
    Penton, Yamaha
    Hi Marty, this is Mick Milakovic. The motor has about 30 minutes run time on it. I was with Craig Hayes as he did the work for me because I had no experience with autos. I plan on changing fluid every two tanks, or every two, one-hour AHRMA races, just as you do. I know it's really easy to take them apart. How often do you you inspect internals?

    Mick
  5. grouty Auto Lover ...

    Location:
    South West UK
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    78 390WR, 78 390 AMX, 500 Humph
    Other Motorcycles:
    works 73 CCM 520, another 73 CCM520
    I do mine every other long days ride. Change the oil every ride.
    I take a mug of tea down to the workshop, and my goal is to have it all apart including the auxillary shaft before it cools too much to drink. I can normally put most of it back together before that :-)
    The Univis oil does not stop the dreaded rust as it aerates when used.
  6. motomwo Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Imbler Oregon
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    Many vintage big bore and automatics
    Mick,
    I change the oil every two tank fulls of gas. I have tried every kind/type of fluid of the last 18 years and found the best is the heavy weight Maxima shock oil, so far. I take the clutch side cover off at the end of the riding season and check the fist gear clutch hub assembly and nut torque. And that is all I do. If everything is shifting good and sounding good no need to go farther unless you see something that doesn't look right. The only failures I have had in 18 years is broken 1st gear springs (3 total) and had to replace a couple of free wheels when they would not work properly. On your 360 auto if you didn't do so I would upgrade to the 390/420 1st clutch shoes and hub. The 360 hub is a week link on the 360 auto. Also when you kick start it don't jab at the kick starter lever, rather kick it in one smooth full kick to allow the 1st gear free wheel to grip the crank shaft easier. You and Craig come out to Oregon sometime and we can give the autos a work out!

    Marty

    82 420AE.JPG 81 420AXC 1.JPG PICT2493 (2).JPG
    vintagecs likes this.
  7. vintagecs Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Lebanon, IN
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '78 390OR, '76 360 Auto, '74 125SC
    Other Motorcycles:
    Penton, Yamaha
    Marty, your bikes are an inspiration! I'll talk to Craig about the 1st gear mod.