2013 te310 spark problems

I have read jxs2151 and have done almost all the tests on my 310 with the same results.
My husky dealer worked through all of the suggestions and came up empty.Has jxs2151 come up with a fix? thanks

This is going to be a tough one. Electrical problems can be the hardest to diagnose- especially over the internet. You need to be the eyes and ears of anyone who is involved. You have to be extremely descriptive of the steps you take and the results (positive and negative); and the steps you DON'T take... maybe with your reasoning. You have to have a minimum of diagnostic and electrical ability.

Any major time lags will "decay" the group involvement and particular knowledge gained... you'll have to re-iterate a lot if this happens. Also, doing something like this 3rd person (4th person?? through your dealer, if that's whats happening) just adds to the confusion.

let me give you a bit of hope: your title states the problem, not solely the possible cause. That's a start, but still it needs detail. so give us some characteristics of the problem, details, results etc.

I'll toss a few things out there for mysterious problems like this:

• kill switch
• sheared rotor key
• bad pickup/source coil
• check your power relay fuse

keep us informed. if you solve it, give details for future readers.... don't just disappear (especially if it was something simplistic, stupid or embarrassingly idiotic- we have all done these)

good luck.

the 310 burnt up the stater. Two of the three output wires were melted together. stater and pickup were replaced with new oem parts. Fly wheel pulled and key was OK. After new stater the bike would start and run but it
had weak spark at idle and weaker spark just off idle. I checked power relay ,good. power fuse also checked good. checked stater winding .6 ohms resistance

checked all wire connections and checked for open or broken wires, continuity. Checked Coil and changed spark plug ,no difference. kill switch checked ok and was disconnected.
wire harness was removed and checked with an analogue multi meter, good . any advise will help ,thanks for the reply

Ok- good info.

just to be clear: your bike runs now, barely (after replacing a stator whose A/C output fused together; running fine before the short?).

...so we're thinking something happened to some component during this electrical short? and we think that the spark is "weak", but it does exist- right?

hey youngster- this is a shot in the dark (literally- it's 5:30am, and this idea woke me up) but replace or bypass the regulator.

Even if the regulator is producing 14v or more, it has 2 other functions: it controls the dc relay and the power relay. The power relay controls the fuel injector and 02 heater- and possibly the ECU (the PR output also goes to contact #1 on the ECU, which is power I believe). The ECU controls the coil.

(the DC relay controls the "fluff" stuff, such as horn, lights and turn sigs; the bike will run fine w/o it and it doesn't concern us too much)

you could easily bypass this regulator function by grounding the power relay terminal or even just putting in a paperclip to the 2 terminals that are controlled by the relay. I think.

I believe the regulator, when stator voltage is detected, activates these relays by grounding them after a set time (about 3-4 secs for the DC relay) and shuts 'em down (opens the relay) about 10 secs after the stator has stopped (again, on the DC relay). I kinda think the Power relay should be instantaneous in either case. I need to investigate this on my bike.

get a voltage reading while your bike is running too if you would. And LMK the outcome of this quick experiment.

fingers X'd.

(another edit: here's a quicker test: the PR's ultimate output, after the fuse, is the red/orange wire. this wire should be fairly accessible at the O2 sensor- so make sure there is 12v on it during the start attempt... and while it's running, too- of course.)

Trenchcoat85, thanks I now have the wire harness out of the bike,will reassemble and try your tests, thanks

yougstr (man, I see "youngster" with that name; & I know you're 10years older than me)- taking the wiring harness out is a great idea; I read that a couple of post above and was going to comment.

It's a committed, but smart plan... make sure you (or whoever) takes time to go over it very well. Especially where the stator wires rubbed/burned- if it was near the regulator it could have damaged the relay wires too.

when re-installing the harness, I think if you just reconnect the engine stuff (ecu, starter relay and power relay, battery, CTS, ATS, TPS, MAP, FI, fuel pump, coil) you will be fine. I can't think of anything in the headlight area that needs to be connected with the exception of the kill/starter switch and the clutch safety switch maybe. Aww, what the hell maybe just go for it- connecting the whole thing wouldn't be much more trouble. inspect, clean, & grease all the connections.

To anybody reading in the future, remember that this stuff I am suggesting ('specially looking at the regulator for coil problems) is specific to '13-'14 TE250-310s that are keyless. It may apply to TCs & TCXs and maybe keyless 449/511s too- but I haven't looked. food for thought.

jxs215- some of these issues & tests may apply to your problem.

oh yeah... on your brunt-up stator, save the pick-up coil (aka pulser, source coil, cps, couple of more that I forget). it's probably still good (should read about 100ohms or so) and can be grafted on another bike again if one goes out. And they do go out.

actually, now that I think about it: your brunt-up stator may (*may*) be okay too. That is, the windings may be fine but the yellow leads coming off them may need to be replaced. This is a little "iffy" so use an ohm meter- you should see very little resistance between each yellow wire (3 measurements on a 3-phase like yours). maybe 0.5ohms to 2.0ohms guessing, but anything higher I'd toss in the junk pile. look for burnt or exposed windings too, I guess.

Trenchcoat85, got wire harness in and got spark, checked fuel psi 50 cranking over.sprayed fuel in air box and got it to pop.Will look at it check injector
some progress Iguess

definitely sounding like a dirty or bad injector now.

I've seen these stators melt also.

The ones I have seen have the pickup coil melted.

Bikes owned by super fast racers in tight woods.

yougstr70- anything new to report? Let us know.

Trenchcoat 85, I now have the engine running great ,went through and found the dealer didn't torque the flywheel and sheered the key on it. Last thing I checked bacause
that was the first check the dealer did. now I have no lights and fan ,this is because of a bad rectifier ,no ground out of it on that side. Have a new one ordered but it is backordered
with no eta .Thanks for your help

My 13 te310r sheered the flywheel key 2 times.
The Husky dealer had flashed the ecu (power up)
with the wrong map.

I am a complete greenhorn to Cafe Husky. Forgive me if this is covered under another thread. I own a 2011 TE-310. Just bought it from a dude whose local. Took it out on its maiden voyage, for me, and bike crapped out on me. Reason - sheared flywheel key AND.. the nut #5 ( in pic) was off along with the washer and being mutilated by the starter gear. We removed the starter and removed the flywheel to see the sheared key lying next to the thrust ring. We popped out the perfectly sheared other half from the keyway, did some cleanup and replaced the key. We replaced the nut and washer on the starter and buttoned her up. Fired her up a coupled of times and sheared the key again. Now, we "might" have over torqued the key while tightening down the nut on the flywheel, but know too, we achieved the 54 ft pounds required. That said - we could have exerted too much torque and weakened the key. My question - it seems the flywheel key enjoys being sheared in these bikes is there a fix for this, there are enough smart people on this forum that I am sure there is at least a reasonable patch - and frankly any advice would be welcome. Thank you in advance...

Steve

you might have to lap the rotor to the crankshaft. and 54lb/ft does not sound like a lot to me (I'd think it would be something like 70lbs). Use loctite bearing/sleeve retainer maybe. btw, the torque you put on the nut should not affect the key- only flywheel rotation separate from the crank will put a force on the key. the key is for alignment only, the crankshaft/rotor taper should take all of the rotational inertia.

I have never dealt with the issue, although many people here have- maybe they'll chime in. also, try a search- many threads have been written mentioning the sheared key.

Hey Fellow Huskie-ites... I had a weird one with my 2013 TE310, and figured I'd add to the (my lack of) knowledge base.

I picked up a non-running bike and after repairing all the things the previous owner broke while trying to fix the bike (fuel tank elbow, fuel pump) I got it running. Recently I took it out for a trail ride and after about an hour of pure fun, the bike died... died like I hit the kill button died (no key on this bike, just the kill button) - no crash, I had been bouncing off rocks, but it died on a clean section of trail - no bouncing. I tried the start button - used up the rest of the battery and even though I was on the top of a mountain trying to bump start it for the 1/2 mile down hill, it wouldn't fire. I hauled the bike home and started to diagnose the issue. I swapped in a new battery - there was no spark - trying a new plug, still no spark. The voltage into the coil was very low < 2 volts. I checked the kill button - worked the way it should. Fuses were fine. I checked the CPS/pick up coil - 165.5 ohms. The stator checked out - each lead was good, no shorting. Checked the power to the coil again and it hadn't changed. I thought maybe the flywheel key let go - pulled off the cover with a whole lot of effort... tapping the cover several times with a dead blow and check the flywheel - it was nice and tight - flywheel key is fine. I noticed that there was a bit of goo on the pickup coil - upper side away from flywheel - "normal" deposits... super fine metal/oil (the remainder of the oil was clean). After doing some minor cleanout of that cover / stator, I put the cover back on. Not finding anything I assumed that nothing was fixed, but I checked the spark and it was - put the tank back on and it fired right up.

I'm trying to understand what changed - any ideas? Seems unlikely that cleaning the pickup coil would fix the issue... maybe tapping the cover got the pickup coil within range of the flywheel?? Does anyone know what the voltage should be to the coil?

Interesting. I hope it's not reoccurring. Sadly, no ideas here.