2011 TE310 starting problem

[310huskyTE]

My 2011 TE310 has had starting problems which started about 4 rides ago, the bike starts instantly when cold, but after riding for about 30 mins if i stop the bike or stall, and try to re start the bike immeadiately, the starter motor cranks over slowly but will not start the bike. If the bike sits for about 10 minutes about 80% of the time the bike will start with the button. I have an electric start bike so i dont have to use the kick starter and this issue is very annoying, by the way the bike starts easily with the kickstarter.
Any advice appreciated.

 

[JasonfromMN]

Just generalizing, it seems to me most starting issues are related to the decompressor- I don't know if your '11 model has one, valve adjustment or fueling adjustments. I'm sure someone will expand on this.

 

[Phoenix]

I have to say that I am extremely disappointed that this problem is still present in 2011 bikes. Here is a thread about problems in the 2010 TE/TXC:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-te250-starter-issues-any-one-else.11937/

I have yet to figure out my starting problem, but I still have a few things to check. I'm going to break open the starter motor when I build up a bit of confidence. For now, my starting procedure is to push the kicker down all the way and bring it back to the resistance point. Then use the kicker and button in combo. On our first race of the season, I tried to start using just the button and got left on the line - how embarassing - the only Husky in the whole organization and I had to push my bike off the line so the next line could go. :P

Please post up if you find out anything else. If you just bought it, I'd take it right back to the dealer and let them figure it out if its under warranty. Of course, that inhibits riding.

 

[Bobby]

I have to say that I am extremely disappointed that this problem is still present in 2011 bikes. Here is a thread about problems in the 2010 TE/TXC:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-te250-starter-issues-any-one-else.11937/

I have yet to figure out my starting problem, but I still have a few things to check. I'm going to break open the starter motor when I build up a bit of confidence. For now, my starting procedure is to push the kicker down all the way and bring it back to the resistance point. Then use the kicker and button in combo. On our first race of the season, I tried to start using just the button and got left on the line - how embarassing - the only Husky in the whole organization and I had to push my bike off the line so the next line could go. :P

Please post up if you find out anything else. If you just bought it, I'd take it right back to the dealer and let them figure it out if its under warranty. Of course, that inhibits riding.

BE VERY CAREFUL with that technique, I saw the starter worm gear assembly spit out of the engine case because the bike had a back fire of sorts while the button was being pushed during kick starting. I would highly recommend using the button OR the kick as using both seems to be a potential issue. I saw a TE 250 and 310 both have difficulties starting after a long two days in the desert under very wet conditions, I'm pretty sure both batteries sulfated and the solution for an easy kick was push the button while kicking. This worked, but the TE250 ended up spending about 45 minutes on it's side as we figured out how to strap the starter worm gear back into the case so that the oil port feeding it wasn't spitting out all of the oil so it could limp back to the truck. I think there were other issues on the TE250 such as TPS setting and maybe valve clearance, but that kickback from kicking in combo with starter button costs over $600 to fix and the block is permanently altered, but a repair made that should hold.

 

[Phoenix]

Well, darn it, that's what other people have told me to do. I certainly don't want to spit the worm gear out and destroy the case. Its just so lame that you buy an electric start bike that won't electric start. Big glaring flaw that Husky needs to get fixed.

 

[Bobby]

Well, darn it, that's what other people have told me to do. I certainly don't want to spit the worm gear out and destroy the case. Its just so lame that you buy an electric start bike that won't electric start. Big glaring flaw that Husky needs to get fixed.

The 2010 TE250 and 11 TE310 uses a worm gear from a starter to a sprag clutched starter gear and that's the difference in how the electric start on the 11 TE250/310 works over just about any other kick/electric start bike out there. I have seen sprag clutches fail on a KTM 525 for instance, but worse case there was replacing the sprag clutch and a long walk to the truck, not hundreds of dollars to fix. So the combination of using kick and electric start on other bikes does not have such a complexity of the worm gear assembly that the HSQ 250/310 has. Battery condition is paramount as is turning the key on right before you attempt to start with button or kicker. The fuel system will loose prime over a minute or two of sitting and you if do not cycle the key switch, the only way the fuel system will regain pressure is to see a revolution of the engine (crank sensor) and that will take a kick start or juice from the battery before it's actually ready to be started. Main factors are strong battery, fuel system pressurized, valve clearances and fuel injection in spec,...........then it's pure bliss.

 

[robdogg]

it's not just a Husky thing as Bobby mentions.. I have two friends with late model KTM's that have had bad sprag clutch issues.

Whenever I hear of these issues, I think of battery first and foremost. What your describing, about the battery slowly turning over, sounds like a weak battery to me.. nothing to do with starter motor. Do you keep your bike on a battery tender when not riding it? I am surprised at the number of people that don't, then they go out in the woods, miles from anywhere, with a weakened battery.

Left untended, lead acid batteries lose more then 10% of their charge per month, depending upon temperature (they discharge faster in colder weather). Also, left for a long time, they will sulfate and pretty much become useless.

Also, check your bikes charging system by testing the voltage of your battery with the engine off, and then again after starting.. the voltage should increase when it's running.

I am a believer in Lithium Ion batteries as a replacement for lead acid. Lithium Ion batteries discharge less then 1% per month, weigh a fraction of a lead acid battery, there is nothing to sulfate, and the best thing about them is they actually increase in power the more you try and start the bike with them, unlike a lead acid that discharges at a high rate the more you use it.

They cost three times what a lead battery cost, but thats not bad considering you lose 3-4lbs, and have a battery that has much less chance of failing you out there on the trail.. these are a MUST as far as I am concerned for our fuel injected bikes that require a battery to start and run.

http://turntechbattery.com/TurnTech Battery/FAQ.html

 

[310huskyTE]

My bike has 26hrs on it, is very well maintained, although i dont use a battery tender but will get one.
The valves are perfectly within spec and i have no issue with fuel pressurisation. My bike shop gave me a new battery to try on the weekend and that made no difference to the bikes starting problems, starts instantly when cold but when the bike is warm the bike will not start using the button.
My bike is at the shop now for further investigation.
Thanks for all the advice, i'll keep you posted.

 

[glangston]

There may be a warranty fix on the gears. I'm not sure what years and what bikes but the dealer should have the notice.....if I'm correct.

ETA Technical Service Bulletin...

 

[DG Harv Serv]

I have a 2011 Te310 with 18 hrs and so far no problems at all , my guess is its a fault with the gears too ?

Im not sure I agree about Lithium Ion Batteries . I tried a Turntech on a TE450 in the past , and found that when cranking the voltage dropped off , with EFI you need a minimum voltage ( I think 9 v ??) on start up for it to run correctly . My bike missed and ran really badly when started on electric start, was fine if kickstarted ! Refitted original Battery and all was fine .

I know I may be alone on this , maybe I had a "bad" battery ? But my point is you need good voltage when cranking for the EFI . With a standard bike you only need enough power to start it . If you fit "small" Batteries and have EFI problems , check voltage when cranking first .

 

[raisrx251]

DG, you are not alone on this. I had one really good Turntech 2.5 on my TE 450 and it did great. When I got the TXC 250 I had purchased a new Turntech 2.5 and kept having a problem where the bike would miss at times and run really crappy. Turns out the 2.5 battery was not giving enough voltage at start up and somehow was messing up the ECU for the FI. Replaced with stock battery and went away. Turntech replaced the 2.5 and then had another problem with it and I think it was a bad cell, was causing some starting issues. I am using the stock battery again but now am getting the nerve to try another Lithium battery. Probably a little bigger one this time around. Shorai batteries looks very interesting...

 

[krieg]

DG, you are not alone on this. I had one really good Turntech 2.5 on my TE 450 and it did great. When I got the TXC 250 I had purchased a new Turntech 2.5 and kept having a problem where the bike would miss at times and run really crappy. Turns out the 2.5 battery was not giving enough voltage at start up and somehow was messing up the ECU for the FI. Replaced with stock battery and went away. Turntech replaced the 2.5 and then had another problem with it and I think it was a bad cell, was causing some starting issues. I am using the stock battery again but now am getting the nerve to try another Lithium battery. Probably a little bigger one this time around. Shorai batteries looks very interesting...

I had the exact same experience with the EFI on my '10 TXC 250 with the Turntech battery. I went back to stock. The Shorai batteries are lightyears ahead of Turntech in build quality. I have a Shorai 14 AH in my '11 GasGas 300 and it is superior to the stock lead acid battery in every regard. Not sure how a Shorai (larger capacity) would perform on the Husky EFI bikes.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

I had the exact same experience with the EFI on my '10 TXC 250 with the Turntech battery. I went back to stock. The Shorai batteries are lightyears ahead of Turntech in build quality. I have a Shorai 14 AH in my '11 GasGas 300 and it is superior to the stock lead acid battery in every regard. Not sure how a Shorai (larger capacity) would perform on the Husky EFI bikes.

I have seen the Shorai batteries, they have 3 models I believe that work as a replacement for the Ytz7s and I will be replacing my stock with one this year- right now supplies in the US are low and most distributers are out of stock... So I will be 'testing' and reporting hopefully this riding season once they are restocked.
1.01 lbs= 102 CCA
1.23 lbs= 135 CCA (maybe)
1.61 lbs= 210 CCA ( but I will probably get this one) looks like you have this one Krieg (LFX14L2-BS12)

 

[krieg]

I have seen the Shorai batteries, they have 3 models I believe that work as a replacement for the Ytz7s and I will be replacing my stock with one this year- right now supplies in the US are low and most distributers are out of stock... So I will be 'testing' and reporting hopefully this riding season once they are restocked.
1.01 lbs= 102 CCA
1.23 lbs= 135 CCA (maybe)
1.61 lbs= 210 CCA ( but I will probably get this one) looks like you have this one Krieg (LFX14L2-BS12)

That is the model I have. (210 CCA). You may want to try these guys http://www.power-tripp.com, The had some stock remaining as of last week and they actually have the best prices I could find.

 

[shark36]

Te 310 2011, 50 hours on, bike wount start neither with the button or kick start. Change the spark plug, no difference, filled the battery fully, nothing. It started 3 rides ago, when the bike had problems to start, but after few tries and pauses, it did, so I came home. Yesterday I even had chance to fire it up once, after that nothing more.

Does anybody have a direct answer on a problem yet?

 

[old dirt]

My 2011 TE310 has had starting problems which started about 4 rides ago, the bike starts instantly when cold, but after riding for about 30 mins if i stop the bike or stall, and try to re start the bike immeadiately, the starter motor cranks over slowly but will not start the bike. If the bike sits for about 10 minutes about 80% of the time the bike will start with the button. I have an electric start bike so i dont have to use the kick starter and this issue is very annoying, by the way the bike starts easily with the kickstarter.
Any advice appreciated.

I have the same exact problem. After the engine warms up, the starter relay activates but 90% of the time the starter motor cannot turn the engine over. I started out with a fully charged battery, ran the bike for 10 minutes and shut if off (actually it stalled). It would not start using the electric start, I put a volt meter on the battery and the voltage was down around 10 volts. When I hit the starter button again, it dropped to around 5 volts and did not come back up. Eventually after several tries it went down to around 2 to3 volts. DEAD.

 

[old dirt]

that's because the starter motor is drawing too much current. check the gears alignments

Thanks

 

[shark36]

It was just the temp sensor. Changed it and the bike runs perfectly.

 

[mnb]

I should order one (they're like $15) and keep it handy. IIRC, the original part has been been superceded by a more reliable one.

 

[Tessier]

Did anyone notice that in the owners manual that no one reads. (ya bored stiff at the inlaws) It says that the electric start is only to be used for starting the bike when it is cold. It clearly states that the kick start is to be used when the bike is warm and the electric start when it's cold. What's up with that, can anyone explain further??????