That's funny I was just going to pull the pump out since i have my tank off (working on e start problem). So what possessed you to take the tank apart? I was going to take it apart and see about replacement fuel filters and see if there was dirt in the tank and screen. How did yours look for cleanliness? How many miles on bike? Is that a KTM part number for the pump? So should i leave mine alone if it's working fine? (I know if it's not broke don't fix it) Nice photos, give us an update, thanx Happy Fathers Day everyone.
Thanks for posting these pics Aaron. I hate to be negative, but the evolution of the fuel pump assembly has taken a huge leap backwards from the 2008-2010 redhead models. The actual fuel pump itself is the same 30mm unit that can be replaced with the CAcycleWorks model. The use of KTM design and parts is ....unfortunate. The amount of hose is unreal, and that hose looks to be the kind I would be replacing very soon, in fact, when you replace the fuel filter, you will almost be required to replace the hose, it just wont be re-useable. Good luck with the project, hope it works out for you.
Did some of the 2011's come thru the factory with the steel fuel line fittings? Cause mine has the steel and I did not change it. Zipty website says the 2011's had plastic fittings, humm.
That one is a Zipty one, its the same as the one I got from them. 2011 TE310 came with a plastic one.
I have tried ordering one from zipty, it says they dont ship to Australia, I have emailed them but they never replyed I want one of these cause I can see the plastic fantastic one breaking eventually. I'll try again I suppose and see if they reply
Unboxing Cycleworks pump kit. Cool olive green body, and a barbed nipple! Wasn't expecting that.. Old and new Bottoms up Next 2 images are the 6" length of the Gates hose that comes with the Cycleworks kit. This hose is NOT SAE R3010 rated, nor is it long enough for this application. Where the skinny OEM fuel line attaches half-way up the filter inlet, the new line must clamp farther up, where the OD is larger. Detail of pump vs. filter male outside diameters. This is the SAE R3010 line recommended by OlderHuskyRider. I got it for under $17/ft. delivered. This application used 8" of it. Booya
You're right, I probably could have changed it out, but it seems fine. Only 65 hours on it. The filter is downstream of the pump anyway.
I have 9000 miles and maybe 180 hours, I'm on my 3rd fuel filter, and I didn't just change it for fun, I was suffering symptoms both times the filter started clogging.
THANKS for the post ! my11te250 is having the same symtoms as yours, runs fine most of the time but when it gets hot it dies ! won't start , will start won't idle tell it cools down,then runs fine again . talked to dealer says sounds like fuel pump, but have had the bike 9 months now and 6 month waranty is out ! says he is going to talk to husky about this and try to help me out on waranty or sell me one at dealer cost ! but am a bit concerend about another factory pump ! do you know if this pump is a updated version ? BTW i have 50.5 hours on it now . was also thinking about getting some foil back insulation and putting under tank and behind rads to keep tank cooler do you think there is room for this ? and if it would help or not ? when it stalls removed cap put fingers in tank and it fells very hot !
When it dies and won't start, does the fuel pump do its priming/whirring sound with keY on/kill button to on? Or is it soundless? If so, the fuel pump is gradually getting heat-seized and there's nothing that can be done to clean or rehabilitate it. Pretty much all the 30mm pumps are made in China, there's no update to the pump, it's just very tightly toleranced and ANY dirt or plastic garbage that makes its way into the pump will start making it seize up.
Aaron, the pump appears to be getting its fuel supply from the hose that runs parallel to the fuel filter line. Where does that fuel supply line hook up? Could that line get clogged with tank debris and cause fuel starvation to the pump? The older style pump assembly got its fuel supply directly from the tank, only the strainer stood between the fuel and the pump intake hole, so this design is very different to me.
The primary fuel pickup is at the bottom of the pump holster. There are two tiny holes thru-holes (~3mm ea.) at the bottom of the pump holster, one on either side, to fill the holster with fuel. They could get clogged, but mine weren't. The other fuel line just seems to be a return. It dumps back into the top of the holster, through a nipple at the top. Maybe the fuel just circulates so the pump is running at the same pressure/flow regardless of throttle opening?
Hillbilly- If you can get the dealer or Husq to pop for a new pump, do it. I mean, why not? I certainly did not relish laying down $150 for this fix. Would a new Husq pump fail at XX hours? I have no idea. Will my new Cycleworks pump fail at XX hrs? Again, it beats me. I don't have any heat-shielding under my tank, but from what I've read, it can't hurt. Same goes for header wrap. And the header is awfully close to a radiator hose right at the cylinder head flange. I have, however, removed the aftermarket one-way vent on the gas cap. Went back to the OEM 2 way vent hose.
I think I got it figured out. 2 little holes like you describe might not supply enough flow at wide open, I believe your setup is getting most of its fuel supply from the pressure regulator overflow. At idle and low throttle settings, there's a whole lot of gas flowing out of the regulator, and its clean filtered gas, so your system routes it all the way back to the pump, that's why there are such big vent holes at the top of your pump holster, to let out the excess gas.
