2010 TXC 250 - Starts, Runs/Rides, Dies

Hey all, running into a problem with my "newer to me" 2010 TXC. Previous to these problems, I was able to get some great trail riding in, and no problems starting or staying on.

Video here: https://streamable.com/qqu2o5

What's happening- I'll start the bike (e-start) and it will warm up and run beautifully for about 2-6mins before cutting out (not stuttering or bogging out, just stops). Then, for the next 15-30min the bike will not start by kick or e-start. After that time sitting, it will once again start and then cut out.

-Newer spark plug
-Battery appears to be fine (and charging while running)

Breakthrough - Last night I am 99% sure that in this "no start condition" I am not getting a spark..

With some quick research this morning - I'd say I need to check wiring/connections first and then look into the Ignition Coil and maybe Stator (although it appears to be charging battery fine)?

Any thoughts or suggestions?

So I pulled the Ignition Coil.. Primary Coil is within spec. Secondary Coil is reading Open "OL" on my multimeter. Checked the spark Cable and the Cap, both giving good readings, but I can only get "OL" on the Secondary Coil with every setting on my multimeter.

First, I'm thinking either somehow I'm not testing this correctly or.. this is clearly the problem.

Next, I'm wondering, how is it even possible the bike was running with no connection on the Secondary Coil?

Ok, probably was not testing correctly. When I connect my multimeter to the Spark Plug Cable and either of the two wires connected to the connector, I get a reading of about 20k ohms.

Measure again when the engine is hot/not starting. As mentioned above; The coils will expand when getting hot and then you will measure a short circuit. When it cools down it will recover...

Yeah that sounds like a good plan. Any idea if I can take a reading while the Coil is attached to the bike or is it necessary to remove?

This is what is mentioned in the workshop manual;

Checking coil windings resistance
Remove saddle and fuel tank (see relevant paragraph) to gain access to the coil (1).

Disconnect the coil connector from the wiring, remove retaining screws and coil and measure resistance in the primary and secondary windings with a meter.

Inductive coil for fuel-injected TE/TXC 250:
- Primary winding resistance: 4.5 Ohm ±15% at 20°C.
- Secondary winding resistance: 19.5 KOhm ±20% at 20°C (without spark plug cap cable).

Capacitive coil for carburetted TC 250:
- Primary winding resistance: 0.3 Ohm ±15% at 20°C.
- Secondary winding resistance: 6.3 KOhm ±20% at 20°C (without spark plug cap cable).

If resistance is outside the specified limits, replace the coil. Also check the resistance of the terminal cap contacting the spark plug.
- Terminal cap resistance: 4.5-5.5 KOhm ±5% at 20°C.
If resistance is outside the specified limits, replace the cap.

NOTE: The area where the coil is secured must be totally free from oxide and paint.
A faulty ground contact will damage the coil and cause ignition problems.

http://docs.husqvarnaoutlet.com/repair manuals/2010 TC-TE-TXC 250 Repair.pdf Page M.25

You need to disconnect the coil when measuring. You could also try to slowly heat it up with a hair dryer...

Excellent thanks. Yeah I was able to download that manual (very complete manual by the way, so glad it's out there).

Reading that however, I notice they make a point of providing the temperature for those resistance measurements.. I actually did grab my gal's hair dryer yesterday and was able to push the resistance jjuuust out of spec.. but at a higher temp of course. Also, I'm wondering if that "exterior" heating really provides a similar condition to what it's exposed to while running.

I'll try to bolt it back on tonight, run until failure, and then quickly remove and measure... to see if the readings are just way out of wack.. and then I may just jump in and buy a coil ($60-$70 oem online with shipping).

It is normal for the resistance to slightly increase when you heat up the coil. That is why the temperature is defined...

Right exactly. So even though I can blow dry that coil "out of spec" it won't mean anything because it's not at the stated temperature.

So hopefully the numbers are just WAY off once I reconnect it to the bike and bring it to failure.

Hi I done all off that went to Hell and Back ! and it was the TS on the timing chain get a new one the ecu needs proper reading yes the coil will chance when ist hot .. at me impuls coil was the blue wire lose ! hope u come right reg Harry

Update -
Someone on another forum let me know that the Blue and the White wires coming out of my stator can also be tested.. Previously I had only been testing the three Black wires that also come out of the stator. They say the White and Blue wires lead to the Pickup Coil. So I tested Cold and then Hot. Cold reads about 150 ohms. After firing up the bike, letting it run and die, I tested the Blue and White for resistance once again.. and I got an open "OL". In addition, after waiting 2 minutes, I was able to get a reading of about 1million ohms to the ground from either wire.. After waiting about 6 minutes, I once again received a resistance reading of about 60k - 30k ohms between the Blue and White, and after waiting another 5-10min it was down to 6k-5k ohms.

So that sounds promising! Any guidance on whether that pickup coil can be repaired? replaced on it's own? Or the pickup coil is a component which is attached to the Stator assembly, and a new stator assembly is required to fix?

Thanks!

Hi me one had 50 --75 cold... when hot 125 --160 I had that issue with the wire on the coil ..I open up the coil just to have look .. I never but back this oem coil .....so I but a coil from a ktm sx made a braget but them back ..I had a spark then...but also the backfiring was still there one the picture you can see this coil from the sx there is a company in Begium the sell Pick up coils but not for this bike my one is from ducati the sell this oem it comes from italy ( napoli) I try to get the invoice and will posted to the forum ... because the paper is still in germany the coil is not selling sepretli
I but also a carburator in from my gas gas some thing
You coil is fine

It is your TS

Oh and If you look for parts go to Husqvarna Germany www.neubert-racing.com

Pulled the Stator Cover off yesterday and removed my Pickup Coil.. I know a previous owner had been in there before because of the aftermarket Stator Cover, but found a Ducati Pickup Coil. Did find a decent amount of metal shavings on the Pickup Coil, looks like the Stator had shaved some metal off of the flywheel at some point. Stator looks.. good though.. I think?

Anybody have any guidance on finding an acceptable fit for a new Pickup Coil. That link posted previously may work.. but, not sure? It's the weirdest thing that.. no manual or parts list ever mentions this Pickup Coil. Not once. So it's tough to try to find and match an OEM part when I don't know what should be in there.

Anybody know how to find an OEM part number for the Pickup Coil or to find one that would work? Tempted to find another Ducati part because I know it fits, but hesitant because it failed..

The Ducati part = OEM. The Italian Husqy's share a lot of parts with Ducati/MV agusta. The starter motor in my 510 also says Ducati. So I would suggest visiting a local Ducati dealer and see if they can supply the part...


Ps. Where are you located?

Woah, I wouldn't have guessed that was OEM. Feeling a bit better about that Pickup Coil being an original rather than one that was already replaced, thanks!

I'm in Colorado, USA. I'll hunt around for a Ducati part supplier.

Hi your coil is fine that metall is from the motoroil ( gearbox) . get a new TS ...your Ts now has it a grey socket ore a white?.. you not get coil it self and when that will not suit the ECU I m 100% sure
by the way ...on ebay is a new Leo vince Muffler and a new ECU for this bike just if any one is looking for a ECU last ECU !! in/ from germany company name Zupin Marko

Thanks for your help. Sorry I'm not able to figure out which part you're suggesting. What is the TS?
After checking the resistance on the hot Pickup Coil it read as "OL" Open Line - no resistance/connection. So far, I have to think that's the broken component.

Do you have the right scal ? .. if so then get a new stator and Impulscoil comes together with right conector perfect .. the TS is Temperatursensor siting back on the timmingchain
it gos to the ECU direct
but all together ... take the sparkplug out conect let run the engine with e starter take vidio... i like to see the spark
. is your injector spraying ? at your first post... my bike had the some symtoms as well and it was that Temps

go on ebay eu and look for that stator neubert sales them as well as also the sensor take it from there hope you come right .