• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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2009 TE 510 Fuel Problem at Low Revs

Mickoz77

Mickoz77

Husqvarna
C Class
Hey guys, I have a really frustrating problem with my 510 (4000kms on the clock) which my local husky store cannot/will not look into for me...

Problem: Bike was stolen 18 months ago, and I have just got it back. Has only done 500kms on its adventures.
Engine runs great until it reachs a certain temp (approx. 10 mins riding.) After that, it coughs and has no power unless the rev range is say over 4000rmp (a guess.) When cold the engine runs great. When hot the engine starts no problem. When hot and engine braking it back fires like a hotted up VW.
Trouble shooting so far:
- Valve clearance check - all good
- Spark Plug Change
- Fuel System including injectors fully cleaned and back flushed (it was filthy)

It seems to me like either a temp sensor problem - but should show up as a fault - or a stator problem - should not continue running once hot.??

Has anyone had a similar issue? or can advise of something I am not checking?

Much appreciated.
 
I have a fuel problem with mine, same year and model. It just goes out on you at idle and then is difficult to start, like its flooded or something. This problem has been driving me nuts, and I wish I had an answer for you. I will check the fuel filter, but that seems unlikely. I also want to change the plugs.
 
Yea I agree with OHR- I'd change the fuel filter- they probably weren't too carefull with putting clean fuel in it. I'd also just change out the water temp sensor *unless the fan comes on after 4-5 minutes of idling.Hooking up to Ibeat would be great just to ensure nothing was screwed with and its in spec (TPS) etc... Find another dealer if they are turned off to your concerns or ? "scared" to diagnose a customer's issue:oldman:

Checking valve lash should just be a normal practice, but I'm guessing its not the cause.
 
starrblade said:
Choke stuck on :excuseme:
Click to expand...

On an EFI bike, this would be a case of the temp sensor telling the engine that the bike is Cold, and more fuel is delivered, ala enrichment. As the bike warms up and the temp sensor sends hotter and hotter temps to the ECU, the FI should lean out.

Get the bike hot and into the popping/coughing and ride it around 4000-5000 RPMs for a few minutes and stop the bike, pull the plug. If the choke function is stuck to On, the plug should be dark black and sooty. If the filter is clogged and not enough fuel is being delivered, the plug would be white and lean looking.
 
starrblade said:
Then what's the choke/starter knob on the intake for :excuseme:
Click to expand...
ON the "legacy bikes" with Mikuni EFI
The Air Bypass Knob, is not like choke- it merely adds an air circuit- which raises the idle becuase the efi adjusts to adding the air circuit, simularily to the Air Bypass Screw (or theoretically like adjusting the idle with the butterfly on a carb). I never use the air bypass knob to start the bike- in fact it makes my bike hard to start if I pull it when cold- I can use it to warm the bike at a higher idle after it has been started. My bike starts immediately by just hitting the start button hot or cold.

If you ride the bike with it on though it will screw with your tuning/performance.... but wouldn't guess its the problem here.
 
starrblade said:
Then what's the choke/starter knob on the intake for :excuseme:
Click to expand...
The enrichment knob will be for gross adjustments like very cold starting, but the FI adjusts the mixture continually based on input from sensors like the temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP sensor (I assume there is one in the ECU), etc.

Having said that...it does sound like fueling. If it were me I'd check the following:

Compression cold and hot...just for grins.
Water pump output hot and cold...again..just for grins
Check the throttle body boot/manifold for cracks
You should be able to test the output of the temps sensor with a meter. You'll have to get the ranges from someone other than me.
I'll assume you checked the air cleaner, air box and throttle body.
Stator output can be measured with a meter...not sure I'd go there, but....
Check the plug wire carefully for arcing, etc. These can sometimes break down when hot and have high resistance.
Check battery terminals and while you're at it check every connector you can find for corrosion, etc.
If you have a buddy at the dealer maybe ask them to check the flash on the ECU?

Good luck
 
I had a similar issue, changed the temp sensor, plug wire, coil, plug, fuses, injector, etc...Mine turned out to be a bad ECU which was either doing something wierd with the spark timing or fuel delivery, when hot it just had no power, I mean I couldn't even get up anything steep. It ran so freakin' hot the gas would get to a rolling boil in the tank. When I hooked it up to ibeat everything was normal, no faults. Let us know what it is in the end, I'm hearing of similar issues with these bikes. Sorry but the redhead fuel injection is not all that great, I wish my '09 had a carb!
 
Thanks for all the support/advise guys.. Still not fixed yet, but will let you all know how the trouble shooting goes.
Sharpie, I've got ahold of a spare ECU, so will be one of the first things I check.
HUSKYnXJnWI ,Since getting the bike back, I put on a new thermo fan, and have never wseen it come on. I'll also try leaving it in nuetral for 5 minutes and confirm.
 
My fan always came on when my ECU was bad, if the fan doesn't come on it may be as simple as the temp sensor.
 
Confirmed the fan comes on after about 10 mins of idle. testing the fuel pump then change out ecu. Fingers crossed.
 
I've had my fuel pump fixed by the dealer because the seal was leaking. There should be a tech bulletin (not quite a recall) for fixing some problem with it. Toy Tech did it for free in 2010.
 
avatar4281 said:
I've had my fuel pump fixed by the dealer because the seal was leaking. There should be a tech bulletin (not quite a recall) for fixing some problem with it. Toy Tech did it for free in 2010.
Click to expand...
What seal? you mean an internal pump seal and they changed out the fuel pump? er'''' something else??

Mikeoz77- if you test the pump- get a different fuel filter, verify the pump was seated properly- if you find that the pump is bad get the CA cycleworks one. I think one way pumps can go bad because they can get unfiltered gas- because/if the "sack" filter was not connected- because the pump came out of its socket or intermitantly does- when that happens it draws unfiltered gas from the bottom of the tank.<<solution here>>>. Then if the cartidge filter is bad and doesn't get changed it is overloaded with additional load. That may cause running problems- prior to burning up- or just not working at all. OHR has the pump and filter issues locked down very well for us.
 
WE have had a couple coils go bad do a very same thing,also check the stator bolts.check the coil specs and see if theres a open .
 
BILLF said:
WE have had a couple coils go bad do a very same thing,also check the stator bolts.check the coil specs and see if theres a open .
Click to expand...
Just be careful, the coil specs in the manual for the fuel injected bikes shows the same as the carb bikes which is not right, I believe the primary winding resistance should be around 5 Ohms and the secondary winding should be around 20Kohms, NOT the 5Kohms they say in the repair manual-that is for the TC and TXC coil. I found this out the hard way by thinking my coil was bad so I wasted money and ordered up a brand new coil which tested exactly the same as my old coil. No fun trying to troubleshoot a problem with an incorrect service manual.
 
sharpie1 said:
Just be careful, the coil specs in the manual for the fuel injected bikes shows the same as the carb bikes which is not right, I believe the primary winding resistance should be around 5 Ohms and the secondary winding should be around 20Kohms, NOT the 5Kohms they say in the repair manual-that is for the TC and TXC coil. I found this out the hard way by thinking my coil was bad so I wasted money and ordered up a brand new coil which tested exactly the same as my old coil. No fun trying to troubleshoot a problem with an incorrect service manual.
Click to expand...
Really?!, good to know, did your dealer tell you that after you told them they gave you a bad part or something like that?
If anyone can 2nd that 20 ohms on the secondary- PLEASE do...

I looked up in my manual (2009) for the ignition coil testing: here's what it says just as you say:

Ignition coil resistance check
To gain access to the electronic coil (1) remove the saddle and the fuel tank (see
pages E.15-E.23). Detach the ignition coil from main wiring harness. Remove the
fastening screws, the ignition coil then measure the resistance in the primary and
secondary windings using a tester.
- Primary winding resistance: 4.5 Ω ±15% a 20°C.
- Secondary winding resistance: 5 KΩ ±20% a 20°C (without spark plug cap
cable).
If the resistance is not between the specified values, replace the electronic coil.
Also, check the resistance of the terminal cap contact with the spark plug.
- Terminal cap resistance: 4.5÷5.5 KΩ ±5% a 20°C. If the resistance is not
between the specified values, replace the electronic coil.
NOTE: The ignition coil is fastened under the fuel tank. On an area totally exempt
from oxidization or paint; if the earth contact is ​
 
BTW, Im dealing with the same/similar problem. My fan comes on as normal although my coolant temp doesn't test like others when cold. I'm getting a fuel pressure gauge and seeing what it says. I just rode 260 miles on my 1988 Hawk GT with out a problem. I look forward to the day I can get more then 20 on my Husky with out a problem!
 
OK.... It is a bad ECU.! Tested Fuel Pump, it was ok. Then luckily a mechanic looking into the problem had a spare ECU to troubleshoot. Took it out yesterday it it ran perfect. Appreciate all the advise above!
Now to find a good deal $$ on an ECU new or second, maybe even something upgraded.. Any ideas?
 
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