1983 WR430 Case Split

Does anyone have a method to split the case on a WR430 without breaking anything.

I have a couple of these bikes at home and I would like to re-build this summer. When I received the bikes the jugs/pistons were removed and I believe the internals are likely contaminated so reason to split is mainly just to inspect and provide a thorough cleaning.

I guess the proper way would be to use a case splitter. Does anyone know where one can be purchased and are they expensive?

Thanks,
Jeff

I have the previous version of this:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17167/Tusk-Crankcase-Splitter-Separator

$60 isn't a bad price for a tool that you'll be damn glad you have when you need it. Figure if you try to pry it and botch a case, you'll be spending much more than the tool cost.

We have made some specifically for the Primary kick 2t engine - they are on the website.

Do not be tempted to hit the crank ends. This usually either damages the threads or moves the crank ends in the crank cheeks - giving you an extra job to fix when you do get it apart!

There is also a tool to help re-assembly. You can however get by using the crank nuts and some spacers...

Always replace the left side Crank Seal whilst you have it apart, as you have to split the cases to do this one. Don't be tempted to fit a single lip crank seal, the correct ones have two sealing lips to cope with crankcase compression and vacuum and need to be in the correct material. If in doubt - buy one of our seals!

Hope this helps.

Andy Elliott.

the tusk tool works well...you would also be wise to buy the tusk tool for pressing the cases back together. i have used both and they are ok for the money. i also have the husqvarna factory "mangle" for putting it back together. they are sweet! but not needed. you definitely need tools to do it or things will get tweaked/broken. eurojamb makes a clone of the factory assembly tool..

I made my own.

nice old bike dude. Made my first splitter and then just drilled more holes as applications needed

function over form, was just some hardware I had laying around & it all worked wonderfully.

Hi,
New to this But has anyone got a step by step guide to splitting the case with the tool etc?? As I have a broken gear I need to replace, engine is all out but I'm struggling to find a picture guide to assist?
Undone right hand side bolts but now what....

Thanks in advance.

Undo all case screws. Remove ignition and drive pinion. Drain oil. Bolt jacking plate to case using very three long screws with the plate centered on the crank end. Place the three legged puller hub between the crank end and the jack plate. Using the three legged puller jacking bolt slowly jack the plate off the end of the crank. It is sometimes easier to jack using the three long screws to keep everything square and stop the crank turning as you jack using the jacking bolt. That's enough jacking for now......

also when you are pressing apart, watch your gap at the front and rear of the case. i have a soft dead blow hammer i like to use just tapping the cases to help it stay even. also a long thin piece of wood or plastic can very carefully be used. it should press apart somewhat easily, double check things if it fights you or doesnt split easily. remember it is made of magnesium and is very difficult to repair. it is not hard to do once that first one is out of the way. the crank will stay in the left side when you first get to splitting, then you can press the crank out of the left side if you wish.

So , If I am understanding you correctly in order to replace the clutch side crank seal you need to press the crank assembly out of the left side case? after you split the case in half .

yes

You don't need to press the crank out. You jack it out using the same method. You will need to drill different holes in the jacking plate to pick up the ignition cover screw holes. No press needed.

Heat helps, an electric heat gne like flooring guys use takes a few minutes per main bearing and is pretty safe. Or (and?) put a big metal platter on wood stove or similar put engine on platter, may need to shim platter up, less work more time waiting.

Thanks for that, but struggling to remove the magnet off the crank! Used a double and triple puller but it won't come off, tried heat and wd40 but afraid to do more damage. Leaving over night with the penatertrating oil but it's well and truly on there....... Anyone had the same issues or can advise a better way? I dare not use the plate as above as I would only pull out the threads and or brake the casing........nightmare

Also, I'm sure this is an uprated magneto as don't look as the originals in pictures, engine not with me but thinks it's a PRV or PVR make (made in Germany)

thats what we are talking about. the case splitter is a little press. just like a ball joint press, etc

Huskyboy: A 2 or 3 jaw puller will not work and is likely to damage the flywheel. You need to use the correct flywheel puller that threads into the flywheel. Before you go any further, go study the workshop manual available free in the tech reference section

Code:

http://www.yourhusky.com/files/86-2t-shop-manual.pdf

The electric thing on the end of the crank comes off it's taper with a puller that threads into the rotor and a bolt like thing that presses against the crank end. Crank it in as tight as you dare and then shock but hopefully it comes off by then. Hopefully you didn't seriously damage your pvl ignition. At least that is how all the stock stuff comes off. Applying heat really can't heat the outer part on the taper only can you?

you have to buy a puller to work with any given flywheel. a double or triple jaw puller in this instance is a nightmare. great way for a jaw to slip and bust your case.
since you have a pvl, you need to get a pvl puller, try contacting them or look on their site