• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1973 Husqvarna WR250

Gord

Husqvarna
AA Class
Here's my 73 WR250 the day I brought it home.
I have just begun to dissmantle it and will only be doing a light restoration on it, as I will be racing it hopefully in the spring. So far I have a set of Metzlers, new seat cover, number plates, new (different) exhaust, footpegs and fenders. The motor is near completion and should be ready soon. Having trouble finding a new gray clutch cable.
 

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Thanks Mike,
Progress so far: Disasembling bike, Stripping tank and De-rusting tank. So far I removed over one pound of weighed rust from the tank. Even still I'm surprised how much the tank weighs dry. This is my first Husky so I'm taking my time.
 

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Gord... I also started a thread on rust removal from steel tanks.. Alot of people have chimed in. Not sure if you saw it, but may have some 'tips' for ya...
 
I saw that Mike and chimed in myself. I will be trying the Metal Rescue for this tank.
 
Gord;140443 said:
I saw that Mike and chimed in myself. I will be trying the Metal Rescue for this tank.

Gord...Great, wasn't sure but keep us posted.. Its so friggen cold here I haven't been working much on mine.. I need to rinse the tank out to get all the premix stuff out.. the gas has pretty much evaporated...so now I have just oil (not alot maybe a couple ounces in the tank) BUT because of the cold it has the consistency of "honey"...LOL.
well maybe not that thick, but ya get my point...
Come On summer.
 
More progress this weekend. Lots of bead blasting ahead of me.
 

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I am going to paint this frame and swingarm. Not going with traditional colors though. If I like what I see, I'll powdercoat it after the season.
 
my frame was painted... much easier to 'touch up'/ I have a couple areas I'm going to airbrush - touch up this summer
 
Probably a stupid question, but just took the rear tire off my 73 and noticed there wasn't a rim lock. Then I noticed these pins on the inner part of the rim.
Stickers on the rims say Hi-Point and they're aluminum. The pins are pretty sharp and left a hole in the tire bead. Funny thing is, they are only on the inside. You can't see them from the outside.
Is this standard procedure for these rims?
Anything wrong with leaving them there and using a rim lock also?
 

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I have seen 'screws' used as rim locks..my bultaco has the holes in the Akront rim where they ONCE were.. they got lost thru the 30 somthing plus years ie; kicked into some concrete crack, drain, under a workbench years ago..so I'm using rim locks now.. Yours seems like a hybrid- built in rim screws. But I have never seen them
 
Gord....I just inherited a 1973 WR 250....I want to restore it....I live in the US but would appreciate any advice on where to start and good places to buy parts.
 
I recall from the 70's that HI Point rims were sold with the pointed pins in place of rimlocks. It was a popular enduro/ISDT setup for quick tire changes
 
Whoaaaaaaaaa...I need to rant... The price on that tank is outrageous... the advertising is a joke.. the gas cap is worth its weight in Gold?....Please... here is one for $40.00.. & that may be a little bit high... http://www.vintagehusky.com/parts9.htm

sorry, I don't mean to rain on the parade..but the price he is asking seems just 'wrong' and affects all of us. When these price gougers actually get their prices asked..then the next guy thinks he can do the same. Generally the next person sells an inferior part BUT THINKS hey!!!.. that other person got $$$$ so should I.
Look at that tank, it looks like it has tape on the petcock stem and (I think on the cross-over tubes)...
I suspect it has been restored.... funny how there is no interior photo.
I am a skeptic, I have a restored bike/ tank & ITS great... I'm not knocking restorations...I just know that my restored tank cost ALOT less than what he is asking..

Ok I'm off my soapbox
you can flame me now if I got outta line..
 
Here's my 73 WR250 the day I brought it home.
I have just begun to dissmantle it and will only be doing a light restoration on it, as I will be racing it hopefully in the spring. So far I have a set of Metzlers, new seat cover, number plates, new (different) exhaust, footpegs and fenders. The motor is near completion and should be ready soon. Having trouble finding a new gray clutch cable.
Hi Gord. I'm restoring a 1973 WR 250 and noticed you were getting a new exhaust. I was wondering if you were selling your old one, or is it in pretty bad shape?
Thanks........Steve
 
The only usable part I have is the pickle silencer. I bead blasted it and it's in excellent condition, but I'm going to hold on to it for now.
 
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