1972 Husqvarna 250 WR and 1971 400 Cross barn finds! Help me bring these beauties back to life!

Howdy all!

I grew up riding Husqvarnas! When I was just a little kid my dad picked up a '76 250 WR that had a bit of a front end taken from an earlier Husky and I sort of fell in love with the big orange and red tanks. On Any Sunday was a favorite movie of course and I'd watch it every week.

My dad eventually got me a bike of my own - a '76 250 CR. We picked both bikes up in California when we lived out there and would tool around in the desert back when there was more friendly riding areas.







We eventually moved in 1999 and I ran both bikes around VA for a few more years until I moved away for school - and then drifted away from bikes for a time. What I would give to go back and ask for those bikes instead of seeing them sold when my parents moved!

Well, that was 20 years ago, and a few years back the bug bit pretty hard. Casually looking one day, I found a '73 400 CR basket case and eagerly snatched it up. Unfortunately, I haven't yet really taken the leap to play with it too much as the entire engine was torn apart and all the little pieces were just sort of thrown into a box, which was a bit daunting for someone whose never rebuilt one of these engines before.

I'd watch videos of these bikes running, read through all the restorations of them (all 38 pages on this subforum) and keep an eye out to see what may turn up. I recently came across someone selling these two Husqvarnas and when he saw I was interested in both, made me a deal I couldn't refuse! I got them transported across a few states (first time doing that, the shipper Mike from Tinder Connections was awesome), and they are now safely in the garage!


Here is the delivery, which happened this Monday -



I can't describe my excitement. It's been my dream to own one of these, specifically the '72 250 WR. I never throught I'd own two, let alone a 400 Cross! They are going to need a lot of love, but I'm hoping that with some perseverance and some much needed support, I can once again hear one of these bikes in person, that I haven't heard in 20 years.

Here's how the shipper packed the bikes in his van - well protected!





Just for fun, I took a look inside the tank of that 400 Cross, interested to see what I'd find in there. Well, turns out about 1+lbs of dirt, rust, walnuts, hornets nests, and rocks! I don't see any holes eating away at the bottom, but there appears to be the remnant of an old repair along both bottom edges of the tank seam. I'm going to do everything I can to save the tank.




Its obvious these bikes lived outside for a long time, and in the case of the 400 Cross, without a gas cap on it, unfortunately. The inside of the 250 WR, however, looks in much better shape, with most of the 'rust-ish' looking appearance just being the gelled up gas and oil mixture - which probably went a long way to help preserving it.

Both bikes are almost complete. The 400 Cross is mising the rear fender and hardware, as well as the rear brake bits and rod. And the kickstarter. Oh yeah, and the gas cap. The oval clutch case is broken at the kickstarter stop, unfortunately. Those are NOT cheap! I'm thinking a repair will be in order.

The 250WR is has a broken up plastic front fender in lieu of lits original alloy fender, and the airbox assembly and mounting bracket is gone. Othere than that, all there!


The condition is...well, dubious! I was told that the 250 WR had low compression, and the 400 cross engine was frozen. Hmmm...sounds like a good project!

Other than shaking a bunch of dirt out of the 400 cross tank, I wanted to see how well these tanks would polish up on the chrome knee areas. I knew that if they looked good, they'd be there to greet me every time I went out to the garage, and provide a little inspiration!

Here are the results.

Before -




After:




And the 400 Cross:






To be honest, the tanks are rougher than they appear. A few little dings over each one, the 250 WR has a big dent, and there is very minor pitting over most of the chrome panels on each one. From 5 feet away, they look great. If this was a full restoration, they would 100% be needing a re-chrome. But seeing as that is a very invasive process, not to mention very expensive, I think I will eventually first repaint the tanks to hone my painting skills, and then later decide if a re-chrome is worth it, if even possible, given the damage on the 400 Cross tank.

They are both going to be riders, so maybe the best situation is to fix up these ones as best as possible (pop the dents, repaint) and then keep an eye out for some tanks with perfect chrome panels, to be the 'non race/ride day tanks'.

After reading through dozens of these restorations, its sounds like some common themes begin to appear:

1. The flywheel nut is left-hand thread. Don't break it off.
2. Focus on getting the bikes running before attempting any aesthetic restoration, and
3. Get ready to spend loads of $$$

I've got lots more to come, including a LOT more pictures. I figure I'd start tearing into the 250 WR, and leave the 400 Cross for now. You know, one bike at a time. I had high hopes for that 250 WR being easy to sort out mechanically, but my opinion on that may be changing just a tiny bit. (See #3 above)...

Sweet!! Great Luck to you! Also get the correct flywheel puller and Case assembly masher and crank end pusher!! Start lining up parts. Crank bearings and seal and a gasket kit. These old girls are fun to build and ride. Nothing like the sound they make!!Great Old Pics!!

THANK YOU! Your posts, along with a handful of other users, have been incredibly inspirational regarding these earlier Huskies. I don't have a ton of knowledge about these bikes yet, but its something I'm really interested in doing the deep dive on, and learning how to rebuild the motors, and learn the finer points of getting these bikes running well. My love of these particular motorcycles is only going to grow, so I'm willing to invest the time and resources to learn. I'm not there yet, but I will get there.

More pictures will be coming tonight, specifically of the 250 WR and where we are at with it currently.

Okay, so I thought I would start tackling the 250 WR, with one of the following scenarios playing out:

Scenario #1: 'Low compression' was just loose cylinder head bolts - snug 'em up, load it up w/ some gas, and she'll fire right up!

Scenario #2: Ehh, maybe we've got some leak down, but maybe its just the ring. New ring, bam. She'll fire right up!

Scenario #3: Hmm...so piston is shot, and we'll need a new piston + re-bore. Cool. No problem. Upper end rebuild, and then she'll fire right up!

Scenario #4: Sigh. Piston is shot, lower bearings are shot, everything is shot. Full rebuild, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Then she'll fire right up!




Pulled carb...barrel was stuck


Came unstuck w/ a wooden dowel



Removed ignition coil


I figured it had to be one of those scenarios. Well, I am an optimist. So the first thing I did was a compression test. 30psi. Hmmmmm. So then I pour just a little bit of oil into the top of the cylinder. 60psi. Okay! Looking better! But not really I guess lol. So I decide to pull cylinder head off. Looks okay? What's weird is I don't really see a gasket between the cylinder head and cylinder. Is there supposed to be? All I see is a thin black film that is peeling off. It feels like a plastic grocery bag. Not sure what that is.




So then I take a look at the top of the piston. It is marked 6943...okay, so 69.43mm right? That's original piston size? On my digital caliper, I measure the cylinder sleeve at 69.53 - 69.56mm. I think I remember something saying if you have .08mm over, its time for a rebuild, yes? Or was that .8mm? Or was it a standard measurement? Right now I'm measuring .10-.13mm over. Welp, I figure its time to also pull the cylinder, because I notice something that feels a little 'off' to me - when I just barely rock the flywheel back and forth rotationally, something feels loose. I kind of hear a tiny little 'tink' sound while rotating it just a hair either direction, and it doesn't matter where the piston is in roation, it makes that sound. I'm wondering if that is bearing play in the large rod bearing? The good news is the crankcase had oil in it, and it came out clean, so that bodes well.

Right now, my main issue is that the cylinder is stuck on there. How tight, I'm not sure, but tight enough that I cannot pull it off. I read that one thread about the 450WR where the guy would wake up dreaming about some new engineering idea to get his stuck cylinder off, and I hope this one is not that bad! That one was BAD! Kudos to him for persevering.

Here is what I've tried so far. I left the intake on, and crafted a wood wedge, and would tap it under the intake in hopes to break the cylinder/intake free of the cases. So far, no go.

I then tried a prybar underneath the bolted on exhaust flange, actually where the bolt was, wedged against the motor mount at the front of the frame. But, it didn't work, and even though I used wood spaces to protect the frame and engine, I still put a little gouge in the case, so I don't want to move forward w/ that and put more damage on it.

Right now, I'm soaking the cylinder bolts with penetrating oil and have a strap wrapped around the inside and cinched up tight with upward force. I'm taking a rubber mallet and hitting the cylinder (not crazy, just a little force here and there) all around it just about daily. I'm hearing what sounds like movement, but so far no dice. Not in a huge hurry, just want to do it right.






EDIT: I think I'm learning this forum's photo upload system only like pictures a certain orientation

Any other thoughts?

I heard an idea from another forum where someone took two nuts and snugged them up together and unscrewed the cylinder bolts from the case, and that allowed them to leverage the head off. Any other ideas I'm totally open to. The cylinder is in great shape, so I don't want to bend or damage any fins. I'm guessing that the head has never been off, so it's had 52 years to really get on there!

The main issue is that the cylinder is alloy and the studs are steel. Over time the two will corrode together and make life difficult. Get some penetrating oil down between the stud and the hole in the cylinder and keep doing what you are doing. There is no head gasket. The head is lapped onto the top of the barrel to form a seal. This works extremely well. I guess the P.O. did not know this and applied a load of goop !!!
I do wonder what other horrors lurk within
Ian

If the penetrating oil doesn’t work on the cylinder studs, try using some brake fluid.

Consider using a coupling nut and bolt vs two regular nuts on the studs - this helps save the threads.



Also, although pricey, use an induction bolt heater on the studs - maybe borrow or rent one - one wants to be careful with the threads in the case itself.

Others have had luck on the studs with a pneumatic bolt breaker. Use with an air hammer - not impact driver. Use sparingly. No personal experience, but maybe the choice of last resort.

Don't say that!!! lol

I'm still not certain what that loose rattly feel is when I barely rotate the flywheel. Side to side, it's tight. Its rotational with the rattle. I'm not excited about that!

At least the oil came out clear...a good sign, perhaps?

I was sort of thinking, that if the problem w/ this one is my piston is too loose, then maybe the other Husky w/ the frozen stuck engine will be tighter

I appreciate all the suggestions! I've been using some nutcracker penetrating fluid down in the studs. And I think my next step is to clean off the interface between the cases and the head so I can see any weeping penetrant, and then get some heat on it and see what happens. I will continue the banging-with-a-rubber-mallet on the cylinder. I will be semi-gentle, we won't be breaking any fins on this one!

The vibratory method I think is what broke loose the other guys' cylinder on his 450, so if none of this works, I may go that route. If I can think of something that vibrates a lot, and connect each bolt to it, I might be in business. Right now, I'm keeping the motor in the bike to use the bike as leverage, but eventually it will have to come out, and that may aid in the effort, especially if I can get the whole thing upside down.

The induction heater is a good idea as well, and I'm wondering if I can find something at work (I'm in the HVAC industry) to make that work on the cheap, something like a little mini 120v electric coil that can fit around the bolt heads...maybe even all 4 at once. The coupling nut as well...great ideas guys! Ideally I can get this thing off without removing and disturbing the studs. We'll keep at it and have patience.

Thank you all!

I have put a piece of 2x6 on the studs and used the cylinder weight to slide down the studs by banging the engine on the ground. also a fine pick to slide between the stud and cylinder and slowly dig out the crap and compress air shot down the hole.
I'm working on a 400cr cylinder too so if you find the panacea let me know!!

These are GREAT suggestions! I will do so! I can easily add the pick/compressed air to the repertoire.

Also, I haven't really covered the 400 Cross much yet, but while I'm at it, do any of you know a good current source for Husqvarna records on the 400 Cross bikes? In older posts, I heard that 'Vintage Viking' had a lot of the paperwork and records on these bikes. However, that website now looks defunct. I hope the records won't get lost, or that they will be passed on to a good steward for them to continue to be a resource.

If anyone can point me in the right direction for finding out any more information on serial # MI. 2708, it would be sincerely appreciated! Thank you in advance!






You can see the '73 making a guest appearance in this shot!

Heres a 73 450 motor I rebuilt for a guy a few years ago, had rusted cylinder studs from the bike laying on its side in a field for five years. Don't let rusted studs get you down, anything is possible if you just put your mind to it!

Lol...thats rough! I take it the cylinder is more valuable than the cases. Its interesting. Old bicycles are also a passion/hobby of mine, and frequently on older bikes you'll find an alloy seatpost chemically bonded/welded to the steel frame. Lots of ways to get it out, but a surefire way is lye, since it will melt the aluminum like butter eventually. But I'm guessing that would probably be a bad idea in this application!

I hesitate with 'over-the-top' ideas, but when it comes to 'stuck' things, sometimes anything goes.

So here is a proposal - take that strap you have going thru the exhaust port and secure it to an exposed overhead joist (if you have one) or engine hoist (if you don't have one - borrow or rent). Then lift the bike off the ground - just a couple of inches or so, so the 200lb+ weight of the bike is being supported thru the cylinder exhaust port - btw, put all four stud nuts back on. The bike will be on a bit of an angle, so hang the rear end of the bike off the rear frame loop, but lower than the front so the majority of the weight is being supported by the strap going thru the exhaust port. Then heat the cylinder/case joint and let sit overnight. It is the heating-cooling cycles (expansion-contraction) that will be most effective. Then repeat (Easy for me to say, I know).

This will be similar in concept to removing the tapered countershaft sprocket - which you may not have come to yet.

The last contact with Vintage Viking (Don Ince) was a while ago. At the time email was: vikingmtrs@aol.com He still shows up on the 2022 Volunteer Event Committee for the "The Friends of Steve McQueen Car and Motorcycle Show" program.

Okay, this is another great idea. I can picture this in my head. I might have to see if I have a couple extra straps, one of the back, and maybe an extra one for safety so the bike doesn't topple or flip around if things let go. Cylinder nuts back on, check. I do have exposed rafter beams, so we should be good there.

I haven't yet tried anything with heat, and I agree I think that can really get things moving. I've got a heat gun and also a torch, so we've got options. Not needing to go hot enough to burn paint or anything, but we have ways to raise the temp Also maybe this idea combined w/ the heater element on the studs could be another idea.

You guys have given me lots of ideas to think through and I really appreciate the responses, sincerely thank you for being willing to chime in. We'll get it cracked loose. Also, I appreciate the contact for Vintage Viking. I will email them and see - can't hurt to try! Unfortunately, a lot of the links for these things come from the 2000s and a lot of the resources are now defunct. In all my searches, there is still a strong sector for parts and supplies, which is great, because I remember back when my dad got his Husky, he needed a flywheel puller, and I can't recall if it was a Femsa or Motoplat (or if you need a different one for each?) but this was early 90s, pre-internet! Trying to find one was tough!

I'm probably just going to order a bearing/seal/gasket set and prepare to just do the whole motor, although I'll probably be tempted to pick up a bunch of other stuff at the time. At least the motor is all together, so I can document the process. I suppose a service manual would probably be a good thing to pick up. Do you guys recommend the Clymers? Or is there a resource to find the original factory service manual? I'd like to start reading through that one for sure.

So far, here are the resources I know of (for parts):

www.vintagehusky.com
www.husqvarnavintage.com
https://www.vintagehusqvarnaparts.be/parts/ (can't tell if these are all NOS or if most are repros...I'm guessing repros?)
www.amsracing.com (mainly for their pre-74 seats)
hva-specialty.com (though a little outside the year range on this one)
Bike Buzzard (mostly ebay)

It's so great that we have VintCo making pistons and connecting rods and stuff for these old girls now - that's how I found a piston for my
'73 400 CR, since it did not come w/ one.

If y'all know of any other good parts resources, I'm all ears! Or if you have a favorite source for stuff like bearings and seals and other rubber parts, I'd love to hear it. Some of those sites above have some great pricing on stuff like bearings, but they are also in Europe, so shipping mostly negates the better prices.


Regarding the tapered sprocket, haha yeah so about that! On my '73, I ran into that issue as I was trying to make heads or tails of all these gears and shafts. I started looking into it more and it seems as though the '473' input shaft is the splined one that is a (direct?) replacement for the tapered one? Well, armed w/ some information, but not really still having a clue, I picked up a splined shaft for that bike, but I recently found it again, and it is a '470' so totally the wrong one for these bikes! If anyone has a good lead on these splined shafts, I'm definitely interested. Or if you need a '470' and have a '473' to trade! It makes total sense that if you have to split the cases, that this is a worthy upgrade. I've got a saved search on ebay, but I know that sometimes its who you know, not what you know

I'm on kid duty this weekend, so I may not have a ton of Husky time, but I'm going to look for some more straps, and give a bunch of these ideas a try. I might even be able to apply more equal pressure to the intake and exhaust ports via straps, so long as none of the fins are taking a lot of the pressure.

Here is the shaft I got - whoopsee!







If y'all can confirm for me that this definitely won't work in either the 4-speed oval case nor this '72, I'm down for sending this to someone that can use it.