15000 Km service, valve clearances, engine noise

Discussion in '610/630' started by bushwa, Oct 2, 2014.

  1. bushwa Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    Honda Hawk Gt
    Figured out the shift issue. I must have moved the shift lever on the shaft when removing the stator cover, and this allowed the shaft to move toward the clutch side, and at some point the gears on the shaft assembly and the mating sprocket got off by a tooth and I didn't notice it when putting it back together. Thanks for the comments on the cam's SimpleOne, other bikes I've had, the cams had more of consistent finish on the lobes. The surfaces that would be under load/contact with the followers during running look good, as do the followers. Glad to know at least one others look the same way.
  2. SimpleOne Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE 630
    Other Motorcycles:
    09 ZX-6R Trackbike
    Yeah, yours look like they are rubbing on the back/side of the lobes a bit more than mine did (I only had one spot on one lobe where it looked like that was happening). I asked the mechanic about it and he said if it hadn't caused any issues thus far then its no big drama. Due to the minute amount of displacement caused by back of the lobe contacting the rocker, even if its rubbing then it is unlikely to be generating enough lift to unseat the valve against the resistance of the spring, instead its probably just taking up lash (play) in the valvetrain. Hence no change in combustion dynamics and no worries from an engine damage point of view.

    The caveat to the above is that this is only the case if it's due to machining tolerances in initial production. The alternative to that situation is that one or more of the bearings which is supporting the cam has developed play, thus introducing run-out into the cam system (as opposed to run out in the actual cam shaft itself, which is another possiblity though less likely to have changed from how it has always been since the day it was born). The run-out in the cam system (cam shaft + bearings) could be allowing the cam lobes to contact the rockers on a random basis, which is bad since the free play will only worsen. So, check for this possibility since you definitely want to replace the bearings if any one of them appears to be on the way out. If you do find a worn bearing then try and find out why it might have failed, for instance you might have a blocked/restricted oil passage or something and hence poor (or no) lubrication in the bearing.

    Checking a bearing for wear is not all that easy to do properly as you might be looking for very small amounts of play, so small that you probably can't see it visually. That said, you should be able to feel it, a good working bearing has no discernable play in a radial or axial direction (well, for this type of ball bearings anyway). If you are unsure, take it someone with the gear and knowledge to check it properly. If it feels absolutely rock solid and does nothing but spin with no detectable radial or axial play at all, then you can probably just safely crack on and assume it has always been that way and even though you now know about it, it still won't hurt you :D
    bushwa likes this.
  3. bushwa Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    Honda Hawk Gt
    Thanks for sharing that. I think the cams are ok. The cam bearings had no noticable play in, and rolled smooth. I Finally have it all back together.Had to do the clutch and cover twice on account of the shifting issue. Was all back together and got out for a test ride, something still rattling, and discovered I didn't seat the valve cover gasket correctly around the cam semicircles and it was squirting oil. Fack. Off comes the valve cover again. Discovered a missing valve cover bolt washer upon disassembly, found that. And, I forgot to hook up the breather hose first time around. Next time I won't be rushing through this. Few things I discovered along the way.

    It's easier to remove the valve cover from the right side, pull the fan /bracket assembled, and wiggle out the cover from the side. Extra hands to pull up the rad hoses helps. Check the gasket is seated correctly before putting the rest of the bike together. The fuel line is easier disconnected from the throttle body.

    Also found the breather hose to be about 1" too short. It wouldn't go back on the valve cover fitting without stretching fit about an inch, and have someone hold it while I did up the clamp. Anyone else's like this?

    Started up, seems a little quieter. The rattle I herd after the first assembly was the hose clamp for the breather rattling around against the valve cover. Wanna ride now, but we got 10cm of snow today. Figures.
  4. SimpleOne Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE 630
    Other Motorcycles:
    09 ZX-6R Trackbike
    Glad you have it all up an running!

    My work on the bike can also be a case of one step forward, two steps back; on some occasions :)
  5. bushwa Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    Honda Hawk Gt
    Update. Bike is F'd. 1000km later and knocking under acceleration/load is worse, and it's developed a loud rattle/knock under decel. Dropped oil, lots of metal on drain plug. :-( Little dissapointed as it only has 16,000 km. Starting a new thread to document the teardown.
  6. EricV Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    Geez man, sorry to hear it. Please keep us posted with what you learn...hope it won't be a total rebuild. I sympathize- my engine shat the bed at 8500 miles (internal oil screen came apart and broke the engine casings.)
  7. 268fords Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Powell, Wyoming
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    08' TE510'
    Other Motorcycles:
    Honda CRF 100, Kawasaki KLX 110
    Verry sorry to hear. That sucks.