'13 TE 310 long term ....

I am going on year 3 and 3,000 miles so a good time to write something positive.

Husky logo on important parts means no fuss. Just handles great out of the box ...



Zip Ty 2nd Gen Recirculation kit allows one to clean up the hose configuration from under the sump. I used zip ties on the hose and copper washers with great results. I mark the bolt head for quick visual checks. Hyde skid plate. Works well, great coverage. A little more fidgety to install but negates any rattling like stock. 7602 14mm. sump drain plug is much more solid in use than the alllen head that is stock and will crater.



Very much needed and glad Zip Ty created it for the hex axle of the 310.



ARC unbreakable levers are awesome. I had to custom configure a stop for the clutch side using a small rubber strip and dremel a small half round on my stock guard to fit the brake lever. Comfortable and adjustable reach plus you can fall down all you like and not stress a break.



TMD Chain Slider and Rollers and BRP Chain guide. Regina chain, Dirt Tricks 50 tooth rear sprocket. All good.



Metzeler Unicross tires have worked all around well and on my 2nd set. Zip Ty axle bolt. When you have the 3/8 ratchet in your hand anyway, use it to remove the bolt.



I recently installed Michelin Mousses in the Unicross tires. Riding high altitudes and mixed terrain solo I'd rather not stress a flat. Since I'm not on the road for the most part it's a luxury that makes too much sense. I sealed the wheels inside and out where the Schrader valve would be with small 3M patches. A little finicky to install but anyone should be able to handle the job.



I bullet proofed the 310 in a few places. The sharp edged angle iron on the header had a thin piece of rubber that was always hanging off and not offereing any real protection to the hose. I cut a reinforced fuel line and sleeved it over...





The Earth X battery has been invaluable and in close to 2 yrs. Flawless. Dynojet Powercommander 5 and Autotune. Fueled as I want, when I want. No map issues whatsoever.



In addition spacers were used to shim the tank and left fuel petcock up solving a common fit issue. A lower profile button head screw replaced a hex head under tank that was wearing through the radiator hose. The stock plastic fuel elbow was replaced with a Zip Ty metal elbow. To avoid any particulates in the fuel I recently installed a Profill Fuel Sock. Perfect fit and keeps fuel splashing to a minimum on fillups. Twin Air filters and Their Bio Oil and Cleaner (2). I also have 2 PC Racing SS oil filters (116). Flip the grommet so you are using the thin side for the right fit. Mobil 1 0W-40 in the sump and Zip Ty's own XF+ Coolant in the radiators. Amazing at keeping heat at bay and the fan running less frequently. I removed the tail section and relocated the signals. Covered section of side panels with 3m film to minimize boot scuffing.

All told these bikes don't need much but do require you make a few adjustments, as most know by now (valve check for decompresor). For riders like myself who are not regular racers the bike has proven itself reliable. I think the bikes will show themselves of value down the road as good as they are. I have no plans on replacing mine. Looking forward to another 1,000 miles of fun this year.

Thanks to Café Husky, Zip Ty and Tinken, Bill's, 7602, Earth X, Dynojet, Husqvarna Italy and those on this forum that have made my off road riding awesome the last 2+ years. Great advice, parts, service

Good to see a happy rider! It always follow good maintenance.

just wondering do you keep hours on the engine? or just miles.

John,
Good to ride with you last year over in Bend. Maybe we'll see you this year.

Thanks for outlining all your 310 improvements.
It reminds me that I have missed a few. Guess I'd have order some parts.

The 310 really is fun bike. Glad I have one.
Dave

I have no real way to gauge hours except if I was to say my average speed overall may be around 20 mph so 150 hours sounds right.

Dave.... Was a fun time in Bend last fall. We lucked out dodging the rain. I'll be up in the NW a fair amount... Would be good to meet up and ride.

What did you use to plug the holes in your swingarm when you removed the chain gaurd?

Ear plugs I had lying around, then some silver touch up paint for my van and sealed with a patch of 3m film I keep around for cable rub areas, etc. Dab of silicone maybe might be fine too.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/great-use-for-ear-plugs.32096/

Another season has flown by. Not much to change on the bike but I did install some ProFactory Silicone Hoses. Spliced the temp/fan sensor into them and cleaned up the routing quite a bit. Adequately sized so they could be trimmed and routed as desired.



Also late fall was time to pick up some new tires and mousses. Decided to try the Pirelli Scorpion Pros.this time around in 90/90 and 120/90. My Metzelers have done well although I have a sneaky feeling slightly more volume than other 90/90's, so after a season relative pressure is low. Not a bad thing as on slow technical terrain I have good traction and never would have risked running that low with tubes way out in the Big Horns of Wyoming on my own.

I can't be hitting any pavement or longer speed runs without cutting and stuffing them now. So with a fresh set of mousses I will have the old to stuff when necessary. The mousses and Metzelers were a test for me to see how they would hold up to my riding and at what duration till needing to service and change.Going to bash the current setup a few more miles in the rocks before switching over. That I got a season of good riding out of them and never an issue means a successful test. If you are riding all dirt and at slow to moderate speeds, mousses and properly sized tires can provide a lot of piece of mind in the boonies and save you from carrying tubes and irons and stressing changing tires in the dirt and in the dark.

Good info. Us Red Head fans should be sharing info on this fantastic machines

My 13te310R has also given exceptional service. It climbs the steepest gulleys no problem. It is faster than a ktm300. The only thing I could improve is making the electric starter more powerful so it turns the motor over on the hottest days. At the moment if it doesn't turn the motor, the motor does start on one or two kicks. Perhaps someone has had the same problem and could give me some advice.

This is a know problem and is a engineering flaw. Ton's of threads on this forum. Check them out so you can be prepared to repair the starter assembly.

Just to clarify a bit, the 310 turns over on electric start easily first thing in the morning, and all day so long as the ambient temperature is below 20 degrees C, or so. Anything hotter than that and I'm kicking to start, and it does easily start. Seems something expands and prevents the starter turning over.

Thanks!! I will check it out.

It's the sprag assembly I believe. Check it out, there's tons of documentation.

Get you a $200 dollar Lithium Ion battery with big # CCA amps.
Keep your starter cleaned out and greased couple x time years in the ring and pinion areas.
Had my bike for 3 years and had updated starter gears in from new when bought.
If you use a weak or low CCA amp battery you will garbage yours like others.
I learned this from a Ktm friend. Gotta hit all these bike starters with amps, not a flashlight battery power.
Also, make sure your valves are in speck and one with decompression release.

Did you notice a big difference with a Dynojet Powercommander 5

I did since map 3 was a little rich at low throttle settings especially at elevation. I was able, with Autotune, to create a high elevation map (and better sea level) that resolved my issues and as a bonus cleaned up the entire rev range. So I would say for me was a big improvement on drivability but if you're not having issues, it may not be of much help. The upshot is you can install the pcv over map 3 and get a near perfect running machine with the ability to further tune for a pipe or any changes. I asked for Autotune since I felt it was a great solution instead of hit or miss tuning. Now that I created a few maps, one doesn't need Autotune so the cost of the PCV is reasonable if you are having fueling issues. Not a power up per se but does provide a perfect tune for the bike. I planned on keeping my 310 for the long term so naturally I wanted it running it's best. My main issues were hot starts, popping and stalling, all remedied with the PCV.

It's almost 2017 and the Husky is still strong as ever. I almost never fully wring it out even blasting into Idaho City on pavement two days ago. No leaks, no issues starting, even with many stops/map checks along the way. Zip Ty Coolant is still clear and level as it should be (though I have never heard the fan run since using this fluid). No oil leaks, chain never changes tightness. Maybe I should replace the spark plug or might I be inviting disaster ;-)

The one and only issue since not really a failure is the Profil Fuel Sock. The plastic ring which was snug fitting started this trip to loosen and spin as I loosened the gas cap and obviously it shrunk a little and would constantly grab the rubber under the cap pulling it out of the cap. So tossed the filter sock. Cheap and easy to replace in any case. A minor issue and the only issue. I will probably contact them in any case with the feedback. In the interim I have never had any fuel ingestion/injector issues.

I am happy running tubes and Ride-On again as opposed to the mousses last year. Not much point for me as I am not doing extreme enduro and I found their relative pressures not suitable and not good for any pavement runs of a few miles to get fuel. Now I could do some loops where I had hesitated a year ago. I do have two mousses debating if I should sell or not. Thought I might install them last fall but best to install as needed and not full time IMO.

Lastly a minor wear and tear issue with my original Twin Air Filter that looked like it was slightly decomposing on the inside in a couple of spots. May have been because the 310 leaves little room to stuff the thing in the airbox or the heavy waterproof grease I found nearly impossible to clean out so maybe some rough cleaning. Will just but a pre-oiled replacement. Normal wear and tear.

I did have an issue with my hard wiring to my Gamin 62s. It would not work or work with anything else plugged in. Fuse was good but I think the usb connector just got too corroded and could not clean it, so pulled it and will replace. Something to consider. Carried plenty of spare AA's in any case. Also carried the phone with the Avensa app so I could keep the phone in airplane mode and have a backup gps that can also track rides. Unfortunately I rode off the edge of the map and seems the Windows Beta is not displaying the track overlay. The FS and Sheriffs like the Avensa App and promote it's use.

Johnrg, thanks for the update.
I too run the Profil fuel sock. I'll have to check mine often.
Question on the Ride-On tire goop, I hadn't seen this stuff before. I watched their video, looks like it will seal punctures in the tire contact area. But how does it work if its not a tubeless tire? The air is contained by the tube, not the tire. Do you put Ride-On in your tubes?
Thanks.

I run it in the tubes. You can pull the stem and pour/pump it in. Many shops have drums of the stuff. Not going to seal a tear like a bad pinch flat might create, but a thorn or staple, small nail maybe, or a slight tear around the valve stem if the tube got yanked. Then I run 15/14 for pressures all around. I won't attempt much lower pressures. I used to run pre-slimed tubes when visting AZ on mtb, against thorns, so figured could help on the Husky as well. Also when I replaced tires after a season I found the Ride On does not evaporate like latex Stans type sealant for mtbs so reused the tube by deflating it mostly and installing it in the new tires.