'12 TXC310 Build Up

Hey guys, as some of you know I've recently bought a 2012 txc310. I just couldn't pass up the deal on it. I saved $2,000 when I bought the '12 over the '13. I am also in the process of selling my '05 YZ250 (that bike is listed in the classifieds on cafehusky). Once it sells I will be doing a build up on my txc310. I'm creating this thread for the '12 txc310 owners out there that are wandering what does/doesn't work for the txc310. My build will be simple and to the point. With the end goal of making a better bike than what I started with. As of right now, I am compiling a list of parts that I will add to the bike. These parts will be reviewed, pics will be taken and uploaded, and helmet cams of me doing some riding after the parts are added will also be added. I want people to be able to post here about anything they think works good or bad on the txc310 and some of their ride impressions of the bike as well (i.e not just me talking about MY bike). I will begin by adding my impressions of the bike.

I rode it the other day for the first time. I didn't do anything much with it except set the sag. I rode it on the motocross track and my tight little enduro practice track. Good news, I felt fast on it, or at the very least competitive against my old yz in the woods. First off, I love the look of this bike. The colors really work well with each other and I added anodized black rims and they really brought out the racey look of the bike. But that's me getting off track lol So back to the ride review. I took off easy at first (that means approximately the first 100 feet haha ). Rode it around the house to just get a feel for it, and it feels a lot like a 250 4t(well duh I guess it's going to?). I noticed right away that it has a lot of decel when you chop the throttle or let off. I than headed down the train tracks and into the woods. This bike is like Velcro to the ground. Never spun out on me, and never slide and always kept traction (even when I wanted to spin). The bike is super easy to ride, not tiring at all. I got it to stall twice, once while hopping a log obstacle I have on my enduro track and once while I was going around a really tight left hander. Besides that, as long as you keep on the gas and keep a finger on the clutch your good. I didn't really notice the stumble or bog below 3,000 RPM that much, mostly because I don't let it go that low, I try to keep the revs up on small bore 4 strokes. The breaks are good, but not great. Not KTM level, but better than my past experiences with Japanese bikes. Power comes on smooth and I found it tough to loft the front end. Places where my yz would want to bring the front end up the husky wouldn't. Over all power, not a ton but enough to get the job done and be effective. In comparison to my YZ250, the yz is a rocket and accelerates wayyy harder, no comparison at all. But that's the whole reason I switched to the husky, the yz will tire you out, and so I'm happy with the husky in the woods. However, it does need some extra ponies. Now onto the suspension. First off, I am 5'8" and 150lbs in gear and ride at a B class racer speed. I thought both ends could use some work. Mostly the rear end. I didn't like the rear as much as I did the KYB unit on my yz. When going through a certain rock section on my yz i could dance right over the tops of the rocks and it would soak it up, while the husky seemed to slam into them and just settle into the stroke and just seem rough over all. I can't really explain that. On the normal trail debris it felt just fine and on the motocross track it was alright too. I will be getting both ends re-done in the future as part of the build. Over all, the suspension is good for the average rider in trail conditions, but as soon as I got into the technical trees hops and rock sections it seemed to pack in the rear. Front end was okay, but could use some work. Ergonomics on the bike are great IMO. The levers are all of great quality and smooth pull. Bars are a decent bend for me too. Foot peg height for my 5'8" stature was nice once standing or even sitting. Seat has a good comfy shape, and while some people say they have problems slipping off of it, I never had a problem. I have a gripper seat on my YZ250 and this seat seemed just as good. The handling over all was good, and man does this bike like to turn. It's a great turning bike, much better than my YZ or even other newer 4 strokes I've rode. I rode a '12 ktm 450sx that same day on the same track and I preferred my txc over the ktm in every situation except breaking power. Turning, power, suspension, etc. I liked the husky more. Yes the ktm has WAY more power, but it was to much. To much of something is a bad thing, and can get you into trouble. Hopefully I will be able to get some more ride time on the bike coming up. However, I have a skin disorder and have latley been battling with that. It's causing me enough pain to where I have trouble just walking let alone riding. So when I get a little better I will add some new info. Until than, cheers everybody, and enjoy the post and follow along as their will be more to come, I promise

Good review Conner, I've got the same bike & love it. Give the spenders some break-in time. I can't agree with ya on the brakes though, they're Brembos with Braking rotors... they work fine IMO. Get some hours on that thing, lol & it gets better & better.........

I never said they didn't work fine, infact I said "they work good". I just said not as good as the ktm's.

Akrapovic exhuast will significantly improve the low to mid power. The 12 I rode with that pipe was much stronger that the same bikes with other pipes. If it still stumbles down low get the JD tuner. I put the JD tuner on my 12 txc 250 and it made a huge diff. cleaned up the low end stumble.It runs clean and crisp from top to bottom

You'll need about 10 hours on her before she loosens up - until then you'll feel like you have to downshift once every time you slow down and twice every time you brake. My Akra added the advertised 3hp from bottom to top and allows the choice of 2 gears in most situations. The Merge racing preload spring for the forks softens up the initial feel off road while still working well MX. Once the engine and suspension break in you'll find that the bike gets the front up just fine - although not as instantly as the YZ. (My other bike is an old YZ250 so I know how big the differences are) The Husky rear shock has been fine for me - sounds as if you need to back off the rebound a bit - the YZ probably has slightly better overall rear suspension but the Husky puts down power much better - the result is pretty equal acceleration - and as you stated makes the Husky really easy to ride fast for a long time. If you find yourself riding lots of rocks a Pirelli trials rear tire works very well and lasts forever - it also completely masks rear shock action. The rotational mass of the Pirelli trials is a little weird when jumping. I like the Pirelli MXMH front tire in a 90 series as it slows the steering just a fraction - but it gets chewed up in rocks fairly quickly. If you decide to go with a light weight battery wrap it in foam to isolate it from vibration - it will last longer. Use the open side of the wrench to loosen the oil drain bolt - it grips all the way down to the bolt flange and if less likely to strip the bolt. (or grind the box end down so the gripping teeth are flush with the side of the wrench.)

I like all the talk Im seeing already. As far as break in time is concnerned, I've heard the 10 hours thing before, and I have no doubt it will get better in time. As far as the exhaust is, I have something for that in the works. It will be revealed later on. And I will also be getting a JD tuner once i get some more break in time aboard it.

Good write up Connor. Enjoy the thread and keep her going.

Ran into a few snags this evening. Added to the 310 will be a new set of ODI Pro Edition grips, enduro engineering handguards, and a yzf front fender. So far got the fender on, and the left side grip and left side handguard all mounted up. Will do the other side soon. It is more of a pain once you cut your bars down.

Ok so where are the pics as you go. Or are we suppose to be blindfolded.

I put a YZF front fender on mine - had to drill 60cm square pattern. It comes pretty close to the radiator guards but fully tested in 55 miles race - no 90 series tire rub like with the stock one. Thinking about filling in the flat spot on top near the number plate with a cut down Husky fender brace. I wanted to go with a TC449 front - but the YZ was available - and $20.

I actually did that lol Took the stock fender brace, and cut the square flat peice from the back of the brace off and used it as the spacer. Works perfect! Ill have pics up tomorrow. Sorry it's been a long day for me. Started at 5:45am and worked 8 hours than went to college till 9:00 so Im beat.

The TXC stripped of the original fender and grips. This is before I cut the bars down.


Next one is important. This is after I cut the bars down, but you'll notice I also the very end of the throttle tube off as well as the end of the grip (not pictured). This keeps the throttle from sticking once you bolt up the hand guard aluminum brackets, and tighten down the end bolts, as it pulls against the bar end.You don't have to cut off much to get the job done

This is the new front yzf fender. You Right underneath the stock bolt holes (the back ones) you can kind of see where I made my mark to drill the new holes. It was about a quarter inch gap.

Once you drill your rear hole, just set the fender brace off the husky front fender on top of the yzf fender and use the bolt holes that are in the fender brace as they will be the perfect fit.
View attachment 24361
I recommend that cutting of the fender brace flat area. This is because it creates the perfect spacer to fill the gap you are left over with underneath the number plate bracket and the fender (I don't have a pic of that yet, sorry).

New ODI grips!

Half of the finished bike.

I did finish the bike tonight, but I haven't taken pic yet, so I will get them tomorrow. Cheers everyone!

Done

Looks good Connor. Keep going on the build.

Alright, got my new pics of the bike.


The next is a pic of the front fender, up close so you can see the black fender brace that was cut out of the stock fender brace.

Hey Conner, nice practice track ya got there. Video looks good, for me just need it aimed down the trail a little. I believe the wide angle lens kinda distorts the speed perception some. I'm with you on the download time, been trying to see what is the best way but that's another thread. Bike sounds good, getting some time on mine & liking it better all the time.