• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

X-Lite Starter; Common Problem Fix Tutorial

pahusky

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I think it was supposed to be fixed for the 2012 models, but could still be present ...

I called it common but not really sure if it is...but just to help prevent someone some grief...

We had already spun the flywheel key and got that under control, so this time the starter would not engage and was making spinning noises that only came from the starter motor, nothing from the flywheel side cover.

I did pull the flywheel cover and hit the starter button just to make sure nothing was moving and got confirmation that the worm drive gear was not attempting to move the flywheel.

Removed the exhaust and pulled the rear cap from the starter...found three floating pieces, shaft key, washer and nut. All three were a little beat up from the meshing gears, but intact.

If your starter spins and does not engage...do not continue to hit the button, this could result in more damage than I found.

After a little research with some people who now about these things, it seems the washer under the nut may be a little oversized for the recessed indent in the gear and when the nut is tightened down it actually flexes the washer and instead of tightening down actually put some tension load on the washer. Which apparently can come loose and off comes the nut and washer which allows the key to come out...therefore no starter drive.

So...Disconnect the battery, remove 4 allen bolts and out comes the starter assembly complete.
The allen bolts on the left side are the same length; right side, two different lengths, keep track.

- Reinstall the key, it can only go in one place. (I had to lightly file the sides to remove some small knicks)
- There are two options for the washer problem...find a washer with a smaller outside diameter that still fits the bolt or go with a flanged nut that acts like a built-in washer. (I went with the smaller outside diameter and enlarged the inside diameter with a bit)

gears.jpg


Once all the pieces are ready, and with some blue loctite on hand, put things back in the starter.
All this could be done with the starter still in the case, but there's no way to tighten the nut. There are flat sides on the shaft that a 14mm will fit to hold while tightening down the nut.

shaft.jpg


Once this is all assembled, make sure the oil hole in the gasket lines up with the oil hole in the flange. When inserting this into the case leave the top cap off, you can stick a finger into the hole and spin the gears to thread the worm gear right back on the starter gear behind the flywheel. (when putting the allen bolts back in don't forget to put the flex clamp for the hydro clutch line back under the top left allen bolt, don't ask)

Reinstall the top cap, check your o-ring...mine was torn.

oilhole.jpg


And just because...a little moto practice before Unadilla this weekend.

 
From my local stocking dealer, Toy Tech, of course...

Although the o-ring selector tray at your local hardware store may have a match...
 
After 6 months testing beside replaceing starter clutches,loose bevel gear nuts,scroll gear sets,flywheels and adding washers to end of crank.We have 2 more things that have helped starting .We needed to test before publishing it .We move the starter decomp spring for more tension by moving it up on top by cutting a slot with small cutting disk on a dremel and the left ex valve clearance at .004-.005 max and has been working excellent.pics below. FIRST 2006 TE610 029.jpg 2006 TE610 025.jpg2006 TE610 028.jpg PICS STD POSITION,the groove is a bit crude on this one it was a bad cam and we used it for test cut.2006 TE610 023.jpgView attachment 22404
 
Back
Top