• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

WTH happened

troy deck

Husqvarna
Pro Class
ok short story the bars and clamps got yanks off my 87 250WR [ all fixed now bolted them suckers down HD style] the clutch cable got yanked hard enough to break the cable guide/holder off the case[ no biggie Andy has the fix for that] but now i have close to 90 degrees of totally loose free play at the actuator arm so im thinking well it twisted the cam in too ,tacoed the pushrod maybe it shoved the the throw out bearing through the pressure plate or mangled the adjuster screw the answer seems to be no,no,no and no the only thing that seems odd is the push rod is cut off flat at both ends and the cam has a weird notch in it it looks to be made that way all my older huskys 79,80.two 81s one 250 one 430 i swear had a rounded cam end on the rod and the cams pusher face was flat i know i recall filing it back flat on a few of them has anybody ever had this happen im i off my meds, gone blind,?? did something explode into dust the adjuster screw was a few turns from flush when i toke it apart and the tips not gone off of it i dont need the HVA part the put the clutch back together but i cant stop thinking that im missin sumpin WTH:excuseme:
 
back to the beginning
how did the bars and clamps get yanked off in the first pace
any pictures of the internal parts?
heard if there are no pictures all things are suspect (not real) :D
 
I don't think you are missing anything Troy, did your cable stretch when it got yanked off or are you using a new one, perhaps a wrong cable? Did you pull the cam & make sure it isn't snapped off?
 
well premo the long story is make sure some dumbass didn't stack a bunch of flat and lock washers under the bar clamp bolts outa sight under the triple clamp leaving about 5 threads in the bar clamp two dont be lazy about clearing the old stale gas out of the crankcase by hooking the whole works to a big UTV with a throttle happy 10 y/o girl at the helm much cursing and bleeding will ensue didnt you see the pixs hay justin you no how this works can you throw up a link? the cable may be an issue but seems fine the play is at the arm on the motor like some thing was broke inside but i cant find anything wrong yes its all apart cam, pushrod ajus/throwout assembly and pressure plate all lying on the bench if you thing pixs will help i'll gett'em it just seems the rod suddenly got shorter
 
im kinda stumped myself...i cant remember but isnt there a ball on one end of the rod? inside the throwout bearing area? someone can verify yes or no? if it does have one it may have somehow fell out when this event happened?
 
i just cant see why the cam has that notch and that end of the rod is flat that just seems wrong :excuseme: seems like there should be a single ball bearing in there or sumpin going after pix right now back in 30
 
i have several of the cams and they do have a groove that runs up/down. the four strokes continued this..im not sure when that started but sometime around when they became liquid or perhaps later when they gained the 6th clutch bolt.
 
FOUND IT who would have thought the clutch actuator arm would be the sacrificial part the hole is not a rectangle any more its spread wider on the cable end a small crack has started to open up on the out side[ ol boob is gona try to post a pix] i think i can fix it didnt we add about 3/8" to those back in the day to soften the pull i guess i can move the little HVA gizmo back to keep the cable going straight into the housing has anybuddy ever installed one of those im guessing it screws down right on top of where the original holder was?
 

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ok can someone pleeze give ol boobs n i ez 2 fallow step by step how 2 on postin pixs the only way we can get it done is on the 1st post on a new thread i think i guess or guess i think:excuseme::excuseme: you put a URL[ whatever:censored: that is] on the pix first that little tree icon don't work for us
 
yes Justin mine has a mint condition 6 bolt clutch are they bigger or did they just add a spring it seems Andy doesn't make a 6 bolt cover mine has what looks like JB weld on the oil side of the water pump kinda weird no sign of any leakage anywhere JB weld was the fix for eat up early mag covers but this ones aluminum and the JBWs on the wrong side:excuseme:
 
they had that jb weld looking stuff on the back side factory, not sure why but i have seen that alot. its factory, leave it be! ill help you tonight on pics if someone else hasnt, im off to the doc..
 
ok can someone pleeze give ol boobs n i ez 2 fallow step by step how 2 on postin pixs the only way we can get it done is on the 1st post on a new thread i think i guess or guess i think:excuseme::excuseme: you put a URL[ whatever:censored: that is] on the pix first that little tree icon don't work for us
Ello pixturs? Right have you taken the picture? No take it upload it to your computer in an easy to find location. E.g. Stinky bike pix
Now when Typing out a post you get three buttons (post reply,) (upload file) , (more options)
Click on (upload file)
Now a blak box comes up select the browse button and selection box of desktop programfiles blah blah blah turns up look for the folder (stinky bike pix) open it and select the stinky bike pic you want.
Select upload file then under your standard reply box select full image.
Now press (post reply).
If you cant do it dw ive not got a clue either.
 
HAY THAT WORKED! thanks JP now you all can see where the play was coming from if you look close you can see 4 cracks :eek: so nobuddies installed one of Andy's cable holder gizmos ?
 
ok i was looking at the clutch arms on HVA there's a longer one for 4t's it says you can use it on 2t for a smoother pull i noticed mine was very close to the float bowl real close has anybody tried one ? WILL IT FIT dose need a little tweak?
 
ok i was looking at the clutch arms on HVA there's a longer one for 4t's it says you can use it on 2t for a smoother pull i noticed mine was very close to the float bowl real close has anybody tried one ? WILL IT FIT dose need a little tweak?


I tried the longer 4t clutch arm on my 430 and was a little disappointed. Because of the additional length it wouldn't disengage the clutch fully causing the bike to stall when I locked up the rear brake going into the corners. I put the original one back on. Dave at tritrophy on ebay also has them.
 
correct me if i'm wrong but the reason you could use a longer arm on the (later) 4 strokes was they had different clutch plates
the early clutch plates were organic and aluminum, lighter and less rotating mass for competition
if you replace your plates regularly or go aftermarket you won't get as much clutch creep
 
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