TE/TC WTB - 1 Finger Clutch Lever

[banana944]

Hey guys, does anyone know of a source for a small single finger clutch lever? Would be for my 2016 TE300. I'm finding ones for for stunt bikes mostly,but most of them seem to be for cable clutches.

Any help would be great, thanks!

 

[reveille]

Midwest mountain engineering. I used one for a while on my 501 but went back to stock. Most guys love them.

 

[robertaccio]

http://www.midwestme.com/

 

[KXcam22]

I can never find ones i like so i build them. I cut off the stock lever at the right length and use jb weld putty to shape a perfect ball. Once cured you finish file and sand it. You can paint them, plasti dip them, or on the ones i did last week, heat shrink tubing fit over and looks factory. I made 2 finger clutch and brake levers for my 300. I did my supermoto last year. Cam

 

[KXcam22]

Here are the ones from my 300. Cam

 

[robertaccio]

FYI those Midwest Mtn engineering are shorties with completely different lever ratio,,, they are literally 1 finger clutches. To be clear not just short but super easy to pull as well.

 

[lankydoug]

Thanks for starting this thread, I prefer to have short levers and usually the "short" ones aren't really that short and still clamp down on the outside fingers.

 

[banana944]

Yeah exactly lanky, I want a true single finger lever, want it to clear my other fingers. The MWE one looks nice and I have seen it before, but not quite as short as I would like. Maybe I will try to make my own.

 

[KXcam22]

Its pretty easy and i havent found that i need the reduced pull of the midwest levers. Mine are 2 finger and i slide them up the bar a touch for 1 finger activation. Cam

 

[rockdancer]

I like the feel of the Mid west mtn one . I had a Clake One light clutch to try but liked the MW one more. I like to use two fingers as one will get sore if you do a lot of clutch work

 

[Cosmokenney]

I liked the concept of the MMEs when I had them on my TE511. But I didn't have the patience to fiddle with them to get them so they wouldn't get too tight when the clutch fluid warmed up. That may have only been a problem on the TE511 with it's wonky clutch. And the other thing I didn't like about them was that they don't have a snap-back/folding option. That's a big deal for me since I crash all the time.
But they do as promised, that's for sure. They do reduce the required clutch pull force. But they are expensive.

 

[KXcam22]

I find that with bark busters my levers last nearly the life of the bike. More so with short levers. The folding type are very cool but would not offer me much of an advantage. Cam

 

[reveille]

I used a Midwest mountain engineering clutch lever on my 501 for 2 seasons and finally ditched it. The set screw continually backed out regardless of how much locktite I used. I called the manufacturer to see if I was missing something and they offered to sell me a rebuild kit for 50 bucks... its now in a box of failed farkles. Lesson learned.

 

[Cosmokenney]

I find that with bark busters my levers last nearly the life of the bike. More so with short levers. The folding type are very cool but would not offer me much of an advantage. Cam

Just to be thorough, I should state, that I used to run with full wrap around cycra pro bends. But I crashed so much in the rocks that they got loose in the end of the bars and would rotate up whenever I crashed. I've since decided that I like the OEM flags on my new bike better. Less weight, and still protect my fingers from trees. The only thing I miss is the ability to grab the side of the probends to lift the bike up. Now I have to pull on the grip instead and its hard on the rubber and less natural when lifting.

 

[KXcam22]

For me its trees at speed. On my SM I put threaded inserts in the bar ends but it really didnt make them much better. Cam.