• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc WR360 Stator and Coil specs

L

Leepet

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi, I have a 2000 WR360 that died on me recently out on a ride. It was like I'd hit the kill switch. After a clean up of all the usual stuff (carby, new plug, check all connections etc.) I got it going again but it is hard to start and refuses to start when hot.

I suspect it's an electrical problem so I want to go through the whole system and, hopefully, find the issue so I can have some confidence in it when I'm deep in the bush.

So, does anyone have the stator and coil resistance specs for the 360? I have a manual (the .pdf available on the net) but it doesn't have much to say about testing the electrical components unfortunately.

Cheers

Pete
 
The same thing happened to me Leepet on the second ride of the newly assembled bike.
I went through the entire electrical system to find the plug cap was no good.
The plug caps have a 5 k ohm resistor in them & when the temperature increases the resistance value changes to a point where it fails. I put in a new one & she fired up straight away. Part #NGK TB05EM 8084 blue cap

I measured my 2000 WR360 stator & coil for you.

Stator -
Yellow to earth - 0.7 ohm, LIGHTING COIL
Dark blue to Light blue - 127.5 ohm, PULSE COIL

Ignition coil -
White /Blue to green(Earth) - 0.9 ohm

I also measured my 1995 WR125 stator & the readings were -
Stator -
Yellow to earth - 0.6 ohm
Blue to Black/white - 129.7 ohm

I didn't bother with the coil as it is a lot smaller than the 360's

The stators look the same apart from the cabling & connectors that come out of the stator's. The black/white cable on the 125 looks like it replaces the light blue one on the 360. I havent tried swapping the stators yet to see if they are compatible, knowing Husqvarna they probably are interchangeable, with a little improvisation to the connectors.

Good luck.:thumbsup:
 
Thanks mate, that is a huge help. Specs, part numbers... it doesn't get any better!
notworthy.gif


As it turned out, my coil and plug cap read ok both hot and cold. The stator on the other hand jumped from 123 ohm's when cold to 150 after 5 minutes running, at which point I could feel it becoming hesitant and had to keep it revving to keep running so I let it die. Once turned off, the resistance dropped from the high of 150 rapidly.

Now to get it rewound
thinking.gif


Thanks again Ausky. Bl00dy awesome.
 
Leepet said:
Thanks mate, that is a huge help. Specs, part numbers... it doesn't get any better! :notworthy:

As it turned out, my coil and plug cap read ok both hot and cold. The stator on the other hand jumped from 123 ohm's when cold to 150 after 5 minutes running, at which point I could feel it becoming hesitant and had to keep it revving to keep running so I let it die. Once turned off, the resistance dropped from the high of 150 rapidly.

Now to get it rewound :thinking:

Thanks again Ausky. Bl00dy awesome.
Click to expand...

Glad to help! It sounds like the insulation may be breaking down between the pulse coil windings. 150 ohms is still in circuit & not open circuit, it can be due to the engine heating up, especially if the bike is sitting still while you run it. The plug cap is also heating up at the same time.
I'd try a $20 plug cap first before a $150 rewind. It doesn't hurt to have a spare in the kit if it is not the problem.
I have a new stator on the way & I will post resistance values once I get a chance to test it.
I did also notice that the rotor (Magnet part) is the same for both models as well.
 
Yeah, it was still going but I could feel a definite difference that was progressively getting worse so I was fairly sure something would show up somewhere when I tested the resistance. It was hot but nothing like a long ride in the bush though where the heat really soaks into the cases. Anyway, at the rate it was deteriorating, I dont think I could have kept it going for more than another 5 minutes. Hopefully it will have obvious burn marks on it when I get to inspect it. Otherwise I'll get the hair dryer out to heat it up before I test it again.

I'd love to hear what the resistance values of a new stator are and I'll be getting the plug cap for sure. It's cheap insurance and I really hate breakdowns.

Of course, it is a 2 stroke, so all my problems will be because it's running rich
busted.gif


Thanks again
 
"It's cheap insurance and I really hate breakdowns."

Ditto on that**************************************** :thumbsup:
 
Ausky Just read your above article regarding the resistance of the coil very informative. You seem to only mention one reading ,or am i right in asumming the other reading(high and low tension)is the 5 ohms at the plug cap.Also i dont suppose u know how to measure the CDI.no spark
 
Tzedz said:
Ausky Just read your above article regarding the resistance of the coil very informative. You seem to only mention one reading ,or am i right in asumming the other reading(high and low tension)is the 5 ohms at the plug cap.Also i dont suppose u know how to measure the CDI.no spark
Click to expand...
Yes Tzedz,
The 5 ohms is at the plug cap, the 0.9 ohm across the low tension side of the coil.
Unfortunately I have no idea in how to check/test the CDI other than swap it out with a good one.
 
Leepet said:
I'd love to hear what the resistance values of a new stator are and I'll be getting the plug cap for sure.
Click to expand...

Finally got the new stator as well and the readings are as follows

2008 WR 125 New stator, part # - 8000 67029 will fit WR models 1995-2010

Charge coil - Yellow wire to earth - 0.5 ohms
Trigger/pulse coil - Blue wire to black/white - 126.2 ohms

I'm pretty sure this stator is the same for all the Husky 2 stroke WR range, just different connectors & wire colours, hence the different part numbers.
With out wires they would all be the same.
 
hi great info
stuffed my spark plug cap........dont ask!
anyway grabbed another one of an old bike and away i go
ride around fine but if i push it a bit . no spark
let things cool down and away i go again
sounds like the spark plug cap had no resistor
duh.
so seeing as i stuffed the proper husky one. yes dont ask
anyone in australia know which one would suit or where can i get one?
thanks robin
 
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