Jason Bearham
Husqvarna
B Class




At the start of the year I purchased a 2010 WR300 with very low mileage on the clock.
It was great fun with a pretty savage power hit which is just the way I like it!
I decided not to modify & try to keep it reliable…
Anyhow it grenaded two clutch activator rods & one activator lever within about 200km riding.
Then I had the carb needle in the 2nd leanest clip trying to sort out 100kph cruise & burnt the head while having a hard play racing mates on a super fun winding 6km long bore drain track.
Sooo the fix for the WR300’s issues was to purchase a 1995 WR360!
Seems great mechanically - just the plastics are in bad shape.
The CDI seemed a bit dodgy so I swapped in the 300’s unit & it starts nice & easy now.
Bike was loads of fun with instant power & row through the gears just as fast as you care to shift!
The previous owner had sent the suspension out to be professionally rebuilt & it is super plush.
The brakes have obviously been given proper love as they are sooo much better than the 300’s untouched brakes.
The exhaust was bent & squashing a coolant hose.
As a quick experiment I fitted up the 300’s expansion chamber.
It raised the power band onset & gave a distinct hard hit.
Lots of fun but it signed off early & went flatter than with the original pipe, so I took it off again.
I repaired the first bend out of the head on the original 360 expansion chamber with a piece I cut out of the emissions pipe that came with the 300. It probably made no difference to performance but the exhaust pipe is no longer squashing a radiator hose.
I rode it a few times with the original Delorto carb & it ran alright but I figured it could be better so I swapped in the 300’s TMX 38 Mikuni.
I had previously done the Jarvis mods. I changed the idle to 70 upped from 50, the pilot to 27.5 down from 45, & upped the main to 440 from 430. I also put the GAY needle into the 2nd richest position this time…
It runs much cleaner & revs out just a tad further.
The clutch had no more available cable adjustment & had to be pulled all the way into the hand grip to disengage so I pulled the cover for a look. I mixed & matched 300 clutch rod head with 360 rod & got the adjustment I needed.
I also lubricated the cable.
Now I can feather the clutch with my index finger & I feel like I’ve got some proper control again.
I’ve read up on the Wallybean intake mods & decided to take a look at the intake tract.
After removing the intake & reed block I decided to scrap the reed stuffer & install the 300’s intake boot.
It’s not a straight swap but easy enough to adapt on if you are prepared to be creative. Could definitely be done neater than I have currently done…
Of course the intake swap meant that I had to swap in the 300's airbox and its carb connecting duct thingy.
Anyhow - WOW - goes like a cut cat & revs out much higher & very cleanly.
It’s a real gorilla now! Big power everywhere!
I’ve got a couple of tuning tweaks left to try & then I’ll swap the motor into the WR300 chassis - well that’s the current plan…
Cheers,
Jason