• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc WR300 Power delivery

Racer X

Racer X

Husqvarna
Anybody got any ideas how to smooth out the power delivery on a 2010 WR300 ? I have owned the bike for 2 years now and I am used to it, but would like to make it smoother. At cruising speed in the higher gears, the bike wants to surge. Its like a light switch, on or off with the power delivery. Do I need to change the ignition or adjust the powervalve ?
 
You could try a couple of things. A heavier flywheel would help, gearing changes, and and powervalve adjustment would all help a bit.
 
That sounds a bit strange. I have the 2011 model and it doesn't exhibit that sort of problem. I wonder if it's a lean spot in the jetting. I had another bike that did that....the bike sort of felt like it wanted to run away at mid range. I raised the needle by one position and it solved the problem.
 
marcmo0 said:
You could try a couple of things. A heavier flywheel would help, gearing changes, and and powervalve adjustment would all help a bit.
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All correct, and will improve it. Also could add the G2E Throttle Cam System (TCS)-this will slow down the hit.
 
sounds lean,Might wnt to do a leak down test to make sure everything is sealed.Could be that crappy mukuni.Put pwk on it and it will be stronger and soooo much smoother. Best money you can put in that bike.
 
Had the same issue when it was jetted fat from the factory, so I changed to a 400 main and I think 35 pilot to help eleminate the excess oil dripping from silencer. How do you adjust the power valve ? Cannot find any information on line.
 
try adjusting the powervalve operation maybe spring pre load or add another spring yourself to the linkage arm mechanism, i believe the firt 300 were a bit of a handful due to this issue you could advance ignition or retaard a couple of degrees .probably check everything from carb, reeds,etc.
 
Did you check and make sure you aren't catching air at the reed cage? Maybe just install the other gasket and see how it does the. I never had a problem with surging at higher speeds on my 300.
 
Get on the SmartCarb list and put the jetting issues, spooge, etc behind you. Smooth clean power. It smoothed out my son's 2011 TM 250 Mx so I'm sure it would do the same on a Husky 300.
 
Same issue here on my 2010 WR300. My bike runs great everywhere except seady cruise in the top gears, it has a slight surge, I've played with the jetting, starts first kick, no spooge, awesome power, crisp,..., It could be running a little lean at mid throttle though as Dirtdame pointed out. Our elevation changes are huge too,( Rocky Mt. riding) but my plan, I've ordered a 10oz FWW, G4 throttle cam and an Lectron Carb. I'm hoping this combo works out good. At least the Lectron carb has no overlapping circuits and elevation change is not an issue. The FWW should give me a little more control in the gnarly stuff and just plain smooth things out. It made a big difference on my RM250. I find the WR throttle touchy when bouncing over roots and in an endurocross hitting 10 logs in a row 5 feet apart so maybe the G4 T/C will help out there. I hate whisky throttling on a 300 :eek:

Cheers
 
Steve-oh said:
Same issue here on my 2010 WR300. My bike runs great everywhere except seady cruise in the top gears, it has a slight surge, I've played with the jetting, starts first kick, no spooge, awesome power, crisp,..., It could be running a little lean at mid throttle though as Dirtdame pointed out. Our elevation changes are huge too,( Rocky Mt. riding) but my plan, I've ordered a 10oz FWW, G4 throttle cam and an Lectron Carb. I'm hoping this combo works out good. At least the Lectron carb has no overlapping circuits and elevation change is not an issue. The FWW should give me a little more control in the gnarly stuff and just plain smooth things out. It made a big difference on my RM250. I find the WR throttle touchy when bouncing over roots and in an endurocross hitting 10 logs in a row 5 feet apart so maybe the G4 T/C will help out there. I hate whisky throttling on a 300 :eek:

Cheers
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I would wait to put a fww and throttle cam on until after you put the lectron carb on.I am betting you wont need it.
 
Yep, as these guys have said look for air leaks around the reed cage (semi typical problem for that model), then when your sure there are no air leaks start going richer on your jetting. The WR250/300 seem a bit finicky about jetting and very sensitive to conditions.

street2dirt said:
Or do like I'm about to and get a Lectron:D
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A bit extreme but if you have the coin probably a great move. The Lectron is ultra smooth and I bet would do wonders for your bikes running overall.
 
Glenn haynes said:
I would wait to put a fww and throttle cam on until after you put the lectron carb on.I am betting you wont need it.
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As most of you know I love the Lectron. I would get a throttle cam only to get the throttle open faster not slower (on my 165) because it seems to like big throttle openings and will just lug away instead of bog and buck. The Lectron has zero issues with huge throttle openings even when you are a gear high. Also seems to eliminate the loading up issues on 2 strokes like after a long down hill which the WR250/300 seem to have an issue with (like many bikes).
 
I called up Halls Cycle and inquired about adding a FWW. He quickly pointed out that he and several guys at their dealership are using this set up, 10oz and G4 t/c, he new instantly what I was after and seemed to now his stuff... Needless to say the FWW and G4 are sitting in my garage, just waiting on the Lectron and warmer weather.
Kelly does the Lectron smooth out the hit that much that it is comparable to a FWW?
 
Steve-oh said:
Kelly does the Lectron smooth out the hit that much that it is comparable to a FWW?
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It does seem to. I think it is more that it is not going rich and then lean and then rich etc like a standards carb as it is one linear metering rod not three circuits trying to cover it. Also the responsiveness and control are key. Walt and several others who tried the APT and Lectron report that same thing saying it makes more power but is much EZer to control. Seems odd but it is true. Also seems to handle large throttle openings in to high a gear far better. All this combines to smooth out the power and make it much more user friendly while making more power. I know it seems weird. Look forward to your report.
 
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