• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc WR300 Float Bowl Screws

Rusty 2

Rusty 2

Husqvarna
A Class
With the cooler fall temps upon us here in this region, I decided the other day to go ahead and fatten up my jetting a tad by installing my new 32.5 pilot jet I got from JD Jetting. I hadn't had the float bowl off since early spring, and hadn't anti-seized the screws,...and the inevitable finally happened. Despite trying my best to be careful, I boogered up the phillips head of the one single screw on the front face of the bowl so badly that I couldn't remove it. I can clamp down on the head with a pair of vise-grips, but I can't turn it because the jaws are touching the bowl. Two questions,....1) What's the slickest way to remove the messed up screw? And 2) What size are those screws and where could I get some stainless steel allen head cap screws to replace them with? Come to think about it,...I'd like to find something with an allen head to replace that stupid phillips head trans oil level check screw with too. That thing's another booger job just waiting to happen.
Thanks for any ideas, suggestions, or even verbal floggings for having done this in the first place. :doh:
 
take a dremel with a cutting wheel and cut a slot in the screw head then remove it with the snug fitting slotted screw driver. If you have a driver with a hex shank with a box end wrench or use an "apex" slotted tip in a ratchet for better leverage and control. Then smile and and get some new screws or hex heads. My opinion is to never even use the trans oil screw and just use the spec amount of oil for each oil change, been doing that for years even my 08 does not have an oil window anymore.
 
When this happened on my 125, I was about to use one of those screw removal bits, but ended up getting it off with a needle nose vice grip pliers.
Bought a replacement screw at Ace Hardware for 10 cents.:D
 
I like the dremmel tip that Robert posted. If that fails then a reverse drill bit will either a) remove the broken screw or b) drill a hole for the EZ out.

I dont remember what size those screws were, but I managed to find stainless hex head replacements at Ace Hardware. Just take an old one with you and match it up at the store.
 
Probably M4 bolts, maybe M3. if you do replace the oil check bolt with one be VERY careful when reinstalling it as that will allow way more toque than the case will stand. the phillips head is there to limit your ability to strip the case.
 
also you can always use an oversize drill bit and take the head right off and after removing the other screws and pulling the cover you will have a shank of the screw sticking out and then you can grab it with needle nose vise grips and get some twists on it.
 
robertaccio;60388 said:
also you can always use an oversize drill bit and take the head right off and after removing the other screws and pulling the cover you will have a shank of the screw sticking out and then you can grab it with needle nose vise grips and get some twists on it.
Click to expand...
Exactly what I would do. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks guys!,...I really appreciate it.

Kelly: Good point. Hadn't thought of that. I could use a driver handle with an allen bit on it,...and just go easy.

Robert: The Dremel/straight slot idea sounds fool proof,...I like it,...but I bet that'd throw sparks like crazy. If I go that route rather than the drill-out method, and blow my face off, I'll instruct the wife to pass out my bikes and tools to you guys. :lol:

Seriously,...what a great bunch of buds. Thanks again! :thumbsup:
 
I have also used a flat head screw driver that fits into the damaged phillips head and then used a hammer to seat it into the screw
 
If you don't feel like finding the screws on your own - Ron at RB-Designs packages up a kit with stainless screws, lock washers & the allen wrench for the PWK carb.

ss-allen-kit.jpg


His carb mods also get very good reviews with the GasGas crowd. He bores carb, inserts divider plate, but the big changes are internal to the carb where he modifies the low speed circuitry to improve it's sensitivity.

His head work is also highly recommended - dials in squish and reshapes combustion chamber for optimal compression.

I am not affilated with RB-Designs in any way - just really admire his work. I am affiliated with LT-Racing (who is now sponsoring this forum) - I am good friends with Les and help him out with his website, etc.

Jeff
 
oregon_rider;60705 said:
If you don't feel like finding the screws on your own - Ron at RB-Designs packages up a kit with stainless screws, lock washers & the allen wrench for the PWK carb. His carb mods also get very good reviews with the GasGas crowd.
Click to expand...

Good Info.. :thumbsup:
 
I've just used needle nose vice grips in the past. FYI.... pilot jet on the new style TMX can be accessed through the drain plug like the main jet. On my '09 WR125, I just twist the carb, pull the drain and it's right next to the main jet. 6mm deep socket and it's out and back in, presto! The old style TMX was only one screw and the drain plug holding the float bowl, new one is three screws, so not messing with bowl to change pilot is a plus.
 
Norman Foley;60757 said:
I've just used needle nose vice grips in the past. FYI.... pilot jet on the new style TMX can be accessed through the drain plug like the main jet. On my '09 WR125, I just twist the carb, pull the drain and it's right next to the main jet. 6mm deep socket and it's out and back in, presto! The old style TMX was only one screw and the drain plug holding the float bowl, new one is three screws, so not messing with bowl to change pilot is a plus.
Click to expand...

I did not know that Mr. Foley,...thank you immensely, that is a plus! :thumbsup:

You know though,...that pilot isn't a 6mm hex like the main,...it's round and slotted for a flat blade screwdriver. Is it tricky to get it back up in there and threaded in straight with a screwdriver through that hole?
 
oregon_rider;60705 said:
If you don't feel like finding the screws on your own - Ron at RB-Designs packages up a kit with stainless screws, lock washers & the allen wrench for the PWK carb.

ss-allen-kit.jpg


His carb mods also get very good reviews with the GasGas crowd. He bores carb, inserts divider plate, but the big changes are internal to the carb where he modifies the low speed circuitry to improve it's sensitivity.

His head work is also highly recommended - dials in squish and reshapes combustion chamber for optimal compression.

I am not affilated with RB-Designs in any way - just really admire his work. I am affiliated with LT-Racing (who is now sponsoring this forum) - I am good friends with Les and help him out with his website, etc.

Jeff
Click to expand...

Thank you, that is a very neat little kit indeed. You couldn't pay for the gas you'd burn looking for screws on your own with the 6 bucks the kit costs!

Wonder if they'll fit the Mikuni TMX as well as the Keihin PWK?
 
Rusty 2;60789 said:
I did not know that Mr. Foley,...thank you immensely, that is a plus! :thumbsup:

You know though,...that pilot isn't a 6mm hex like the main,...it's round and slotted for a flat blade screwdriver. Is it tricky to get it back up in there and threaded in straight with a screwdriver through that hole?
Click to expand...

I guess I was thinking main jet there. I use a smaller flat blade screwdriver for the pilot jet. It's a slight angle in, but quite doable.
 
Norman Foley;60798 said:
I guess I was thinking main jet there. I use a smaller flat blade screwdriver for the pilot jet. It's a slight angle in, but quite doable.
Click to expand...

Great,...fantastic!,...Thanks again Norman. I wish the Keihins on my KTMs were made like that. Not only are the drain holes too small, but they also have this white plastic funnel shaped piece that pushes up over the main jet inside the bowl. When you remove the drain plug, the main jet is all you can even see.
 
I cant change the jets on my 300 without removing the carb. Unless I want to drain the fuel and remove the petcock, which is the cause of the carb not rotating far enough to access the bottom.

And a huge +1 to Ron Black @ RB Designs. The ONLY person other than myself who touches my motors. Great 2 stroke motor guy :thumbsup:
 
Yeah, I imagine it is a little tighter fit in our 300s than it is in the 125s. The top hits the petcock on a left side roll, and the pipe on a right side roll, don't it?
 
Rusty 2;60918 said:
Yeah, I imagine it is a little tighter fit in our 300s than it is in the 125s. The top hits the petcock on a left side roll, and the pipe on a right side roll, don't it?
Click to expand...

Pop the tank off?
 
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