• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc WR300 clutch help

N

ncbrock

Husqvarna
B Class
I purchased a 2009 WR300 recently and have about 5 rides on it so far. The bike had a rekluse exp 3.0 installed when I bought it. I bought the bike the clutch worked as it was supposed to, but has always had a extremely hard clutch pull. After the first ride the rekluse was slipping a little bit and I tried messing with the cable adjustments on both ends to try and get the rekluse to not slip. I have the motion pro terminator cable already and it had to be adjusted all the way out on both ends to get the rekluse to grab. On my latest ride I was trying to fit between two trees where my hand bars were a little wider and took a little spill. I've dropped the bike quite a few times before but this time I could barely get the clutch to grab and limped back to camp.

Since then, I've tried adjusting the pushrod adjuster in the clutch basket, cable adjustments on both ends, and the only place it starts to grab (but still not enough engagement) is with the pushrod adjusted to max length, cable adjusted all the way out on the engine and perch. Maybe I need a new cable? Not sure if I should stick with the stock length or put in an order for a shortened cable? Seems like something with the clutch geometry is messed up.
 
I have the same setup. The "freeplay gain" is extremely important and must be correct. Their website gives you istructions if you dont have them.

The heavy clutch pull is normal for the springs incuded in the kit.
 
I find the Terminator cable a little long and ended up adding a spacer (a nut) to the cable side of the lug on the motor. Also lubed the cable well with silicone which improved the clutch pull. As HusqRacr says the freeplay must be correct and it takes a few tries for many of us.
 
HusqRacr said:
I have the same setup. The "freeplay gain" is extremely important and must be correct. Their website gives you istructions if you dont have them.

The heavy clutch pull is normal for the springs incuded in the kit.
Click to expand...

Well to adjust my free play gain properly, the clutch cable had to be adjusted out all the way out, almost past the point where the cable was at its max. Anyways, I have a new clutch perch and terminator cable coming in the mail. If need be I can machine a little spacer to go in front of the cable holder lug on the motor. I will also be modifying the clutch pivot arm a little longer to help with leverage. I will see if all that will fix my issue.
 
I put an EXP 3 in and you need to wind the hell out of it to get it to work, but thats how its supposed to be. When I was first tuning it I thought it was winding way too much and still not grabbing so I pulled it all apart to make sure it was installed correctly. Ive had mine in for ages now and thats the way it is, pretty much wound right up
I check the freeplay while Im riding but even thats settled down, hardly ever needs adjusting.
My motion pro cable frayed so Im just using the stock with the stock lever, I was getting a bit over the hard 2 finger pull so last night I lubed all my cables and yeah its heaps better - easy 2 finger now.

If its 2nd hand you know the plates might just be worn out
 
My 4t bike has the EXP 2.0 and not sure the differences... but as Rick mentioned above, my fiber plates and EXP friction plate both were worn out at about ~400 hrs ... Rekluse was really cool on it and sent me out a new fiction plate at no cost to me and I was not even the original purchaser of the device ..

Here are some words on adjusting pressure-plate on the device and the free-play and adjusting the 2.0 model device....Might be some clues in there for you ..

rekluse_sythoms.jpg
 
Warrantied Rekluse came in the mail today, along with my new pro taper clutch perch. I'm hoping when my new cable gets here it will fix my issue. With the new perch and clutch in, it just seems like the cable (not the housing) is still too long. With the Rekluse out of the question entirely, the cable is adjusted almost adjusted all the way out on both ends, push rod adjuster is almost all the way out AND I made a 3/8" spacer to space the cable out from the engine side cable holder just to get the slack out of the clutch lever.
 
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