• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Wr300 Broken Clutch Actuator Arm & Worn Pushrod - Australia

Jason Bearham

Husqvarna
B Class
Hi guys,
I am a first time Husky owner and recently (4 months) back into dirt bikes after a 25 year break.

I purchased a 2010 WR300 with 1700km on the digital display at the start of 2024.
I have added 300km to it since.
After doing a little carb tuning and re-gapping the spark plug it rides acceptably with plenty of top end and decent mid range. I'll look at changing out the Mikuni's GAY needle and changing the PJ and IJ as it fouls up if being putted around low speed trails.

Anyhow the problem:
I entered a dirt bike gymkhana on the weekend and had a blast working up my confidence as the courses progressed till I was getting quite aggressive with it. The event was held in the sand of a rodeo arena so I was clutching it as required coming out of turns around poles and barrels.
I finally got too enthusiastic and dropped the bike on the left side around a barrel - low speed with minimal impact in the sand. I picked the bike up and powered it to the finish and found the clutch lever was limp and the clutch would not disengage so I hit the kill switch to bring it to a stop.
The bike was running on full song and no discernable noises of concern at the time.
I figured the clutch cable had come dislodged but it was still attached upon inspection.

I pulled the clutch cover and the clutch disks out last night and found a couple of odd issues similar to this thread from 2017.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/20...d-breaking-clutch-problems.87805/#post-628268
My clutch rod is worn significantly at the actuator end and it turns out looking at the parts diagram and pictures this morning that the bottom end of the actuator arm has broken off.
Most concerning to me at this moment is that when I could not get the actuator arm to sit down in the case quite as far as I felt it should, I put a magnetic pointer down the actuator hole and pulled out 8 small chewed up munted ball bearings.

Any suggestions on what on earth has gone wrong?
Where could those ball bearings have come from...?
Are the parts still available in Australia or some reliable overseas supplier?

Cheers,
Jason
 

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