• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc WR250 silencer drilling question

d7b

d7b

Husqvarna
AA Class
I never post as I hate to hassle but the suggestions on here all suggest the entry end of the silencer slips off with some effort after removing the 8mm nuts .

I’m great at wrench handing motorcycles but can’t get the intake end to budge without me destroying it. Am I correct to assume the rivets drilled out to remove the packing are the countersunk circles I can see on the intake end after unbolted ? Then rivet it again after repacking with some suitable JB weld or permatex if you wreck the O-ring ? All my 4T huskies were easy. Thing thing is Nuts.

Thanks for any help.
 

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Yes, you will need to drill out the rivets. Be sure to use steel rivets when you reassemble. I started saving up for a FMF replacement right away, after repacking my OEM muffler on the WR300.
 
Awesome. Thanks for the help. I thought it was a different silencer until I saw the faint raised paint circles
 
I've always had to use a thin table knive with a nice rounded handle/end to separate the sealant between the can and the end cap. Spray a little furniture polish in the gap... Endust is my favorite, really cuts the spooge and gunk.:oldman:
 
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