• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st WR250 Clutch Help

Jhunter

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have a 2008 WR250 and the clutch is on its last leg. So after looking at the Rocky Mtn web site today, I see some steel plates for $57 and then they have another set of plates and friction material for $107. What do I really need? Is there cheaper or better option? I know I can call Halls but wanted to see what you guys have done in the past. Any tricks or tips?

Also, looks like the Husky application is the same as the Honda CRF450r 2002-2015 or the CR250r 1990-2007. That should help on the cost with Honda producing so may of these bikes...
 
Just call jeff at halls order the parts install and ride I just did for my 300 all is good at Halls
 
Comanche - I used your link and called the guys at ADMC. Turns out they sell the exact same kit and part number as Halls (#800088966). They were $95 and $76 after their 20% on line discount promotion. I saved a few bucks - Thanks for the tip!
 
Guys- any tips or tricks to swapping out the clutch? Any special tools or torq specs that may trip me up?
 
If you just gonna change plates you dont need anything special, maybe a torqwrench (or what its called?)
But if you gonna take out the whole basket i would buy a wrench that prevent the hub from spinning. I used gear and back brake and powertool to get mine off. But mine was very tight, and its not ideal to do it like that..
Btw. If you gonna change the plates, check the springs. I would change those to, i dont think they are expensive. But its not necessary if they are fine.
 
Thanks Troy. I almost forgot about the 'soak'. Unless the basket looks worn, I see no reason to pull it out. This should be a pretty simple plate and friction swap... Does anyone know if the clutch cover is a rubber O-ring seal or a paper seal?
 
Guys- any tips or tricks to swapping out the clutch? Any special tools or torq specs that may trip me up?
While you're there you can adjust the pushrod length in the center of the clutch hub to get the ideal geometry on your cable arm at the case. Back off the cable adjustment (at the lever) and then adjust the pushrod length so that the arm at the case pulls through 90 degrees as the clutch disengages.
 
So this weekend, I installed the new OEM clutch in my '08 WR250. The bike has somewhere around 100 hours on it. The original clutch looked like new. The friction was hardly warn and the plates looked perfect. Not one groove in the basket. I went ahead and put the new unit in but it looks like my original clutch was good for a few more years. :thumbsup:
 
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