• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc WR125 tuning question

Philbilly;100008 said:
After 3 days of riding, temps 80-85 with some humidity @ 700ft elevation I did some experimenting. My '09WR125 has always ran pretty good on the bottom (lugging) and good on top but I've been trying to get rid of the bog (lack of torque) during the transition from bottom to top...I lowered the needle in steps, I'm now at pos 1 and the AS 2 1/4 out. It's running crisper on the bottom and it seems to run cleaner now into the top but still has that lack of torque so the only thing I have not tried is lowering the PV arm a smidgin as Kelly suggested. Maybe go leaner on the pilot as it just takes a few seconds to run well without the choke when the engine is cold? Any other suggestions, please help!
Click to expand...

I would try 1 or 2 sizes leaner on the pj,I think most shoot for 1 1/2 turns out on the AS,at least I do and my bike runs great.
What main are you running and what does your plug look like? any spooge?
 
I would also look at the PV arm adjustment and ignition timing
I think it is possiblly just the nature of the beast - so may need fmf pipe , head work or 144 kit
However my 08 ran a lot better with power valve arm at 3/4 and a leaner pilot . I would prefer to have needle at 2 or 3 and maybe this can be done if you go leaner on pilot
(Varying temps didint seem to make a lot of difference to mine - its been getting cool and still running better when leaned up)
 
Idacurt;100044 said:
Can you change the timing on a wr? I haven't pulled my cover yet,just thought it was fixed?
Click to expand...



yes you can change timing...but the cover has to come off then the flywheel pulled to get at the base screws....

on a CR the flywheel is smaller and does not have to come off
 
Troy F Collins;100056 said:
yes you can change timing...but the cover has to come off then the flywheel pulled to get at the base screws....
Click to expand...

Thanks,I just took the cover off to see that.I have a car balancer puller to hopefully get the flywheel off.
 
Scootskipper;100017 said:
I had gone to the 165 main and it felt okay just running back and forth in my yard and whacking it. Sunday I ran a hare scramble that the course opened on to some straight, fast fire roads for stretches and it just stuttered and died when I went to really wring on it. I just short shifted and never really opened the throttle all the way. I'm just going to have to start over on this tuning business.
Click to expand...

It is hard to diagnose by someone elses description sometimes, but you went leaner and it got worse.
Read my post's, try putting some fuel to it.
GP
 
See if this will help you.

1. Start with your main on top and read your plug. When it was cool out 70ish, mine likes a 185 main. As the heat and high humidity is coming in around 90-95ish, I brought mine down to 180. I think this is why I seem to have retained my top end.

2.) Put your blue needle in with clip in the middle slot.

3.) Try working on the pilot now. I tried the 45, 42 and am going to settle at 40 with the heat and humidity. Air screw should be 1 1/2 turns - 2 turns (Adjust it in quarter turn increments when the bike is completely warmed up).

4.) Now try moving your needle up or down from there. Mine likes the 3rd down from top.
Red needle does not work on mine.

5.) I went with Stock spring and Walt's blue spring. I want mine to come on low and tractor to the top. I think this is why I seem to have retained my top end.

6.) Leave your power valve cover off and first set your power valve to just a little gap from crown of screw to top edge of slot. I used a pocket screw driver tip to stick in there for the first gap and mark it. Ride the bike and start moving the screw up in a couple of MM increments till you like it. Set it and mark it for life.


7.) I was running Maxima 927 40:1 and switched to Amsoil Dominator 40:1. I had a theory that the castor oil was slowing up my power valves a little?


The bike has a great throttle response from low to the top. The other night, I just stuck my TMX back on for kicks. At first, I had to back out the air screw 1 turn and the TMX was dialed in again. The TMX is permantly resting in a nice Keihin Box. What a difference!

Hope this helps.
 
dartyppyt;100428 said:
See if this will help you.

1. Start with your main on top and read your plug. When it was cool out 70ish, mine likes a 185 main. As the heat and high humidity is coming in around 90-95ish, I brought mine down to 180. I think this is why I seem to have retained my top end.

2.) Put your blue needle in with clip in the middle slot.

3.) Try working on the pilot now. I tried the 45, 42 and am going to settle at 40 with the heat and humidity. Air screw should be 1 1/2 turns - 2 turns (Adjust it in quarter turn increments when the bike is completely warmed up).

4.) Now try moving your needle up or down from there. Mine likes the 3rd down from top.
Red needle does not work on mine.

5.) I went with Stock spring and Walt's blue spring. I want mine to come on low and tractor to the top. I think this is why I seem to have retained my top end.

6.) Leave your power valve cover off and first set your power valve to just a little gap from crown of screw to top edge of slot. I used a pocket screw driver tip to stick in there for the first gap and mark it. Ride the bike and start moving the screw up in a couple of MM increments till you like it. Set it and mark it for life.


7.) I was running Maxima 927 40:1 and switched to Amsoil Dominator 40:1. I had a theory that the castor oil was slowing up my power valves a little?


The bike has a great throttle response from low to the top. The other night, I just stuck my TMX back on for kicks. At first, I had to back out the air screw 1 turn and the TMX was dialed in again. The TMX is permantly resting in a nice Keihin Box. What a difference!

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Your elevation?
 
dartyppyt;100428 said:
See if this will help you.

1. Start with your main on top and read your plug. When it was cool out 70ish, mine likes a 185 main. As the heat and high humidity is coming in around 90-95ish, I brought mine down to 180. I think this is why I seem to have retained my top end.

2.) Put your blue needle in with clip in the middle slot.

3.) Try working on the pilot now. I tried the 45, 42 and am going to settle at 40 with the heat and humidity. Air screw should be 1 1/2 turns - 2 turns (Adjust it in quarter turn increments when the bike is completely warmed up).

4.) Now try moving your needle up or down from there. Mine likes the 3rd down from top.
Red needle does not work on mine.

5.) I went with Stock spring and Walt's blue spring. I want mine to come on low and tractor to the top. I think this is why I seem to have retained my top end.

6.) Leave your power valve cover off and first set your power valve to just a little gap from crown of screw to top edge of slot. I used a pocket screw driver tip to stick in there for the first gap and mark it. Ride the bike and start moving the screw up in a couple of MM increments till you like it. Set it and mark it for life.


7.) I was running Maxima 927 40:1 and switched to Amsoil Dominator 40:1. I had a theory that the castor oil was slowing up my power valves a little?


The bike has a great throttle response from low to the top. The other night, I just stuck my TMX back on for kicks. At first, I had to back out the air screw 1 turn and the TMX was dialed in again. The TMX is permantly resting in a nice Keihin Box. What a difference!

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Thanx for sharing. I'll try this soon. :thumbsup:
 
Follow up

I want to thank those who have gone before me and have posted their setups in this thread and in other places. I kept the 40 pilot jet and changed to a 185 main. Blue needle in the middle position to start with and two turns out on the air screw. I also adjusted my power valve to where the bolt is in the top of the slot. The bike was so much better everywhere! :applause: I felt that it still had a slight stutter at around half throttle so I raised the needle one position. It has never been this good! From a purr to a scream it is great. :thumbsup:I don't know if it can be gotten any better as I didn't get to ride very long before it suddenly quit. :thumbsdown: I checked and it had fuel but no spark:confused: Check this tread to learn more: http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?p=102155#post102155
 
Great to hear that. Now try a 180 main. Leave your clip where it is at and your air screw.
You can switch out the main in 5 minutes while the carb is on the bike. Next take your powervalve cover off. If you moved the bolt all the way up. Start bring it back down in a couple mm increments till your bike is crisp on the throttle. It should get rid of it. You should try Walt's spring kit. I really like the stock and blue spring for Harescrambles.
 
Hey David it sounds like you are getting her dialed in with some awesome ifo from fellow members. Sorry I haven't been much help since my spill but it sounds like you have it under control my friend. Thanks for helping guys!
 
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