• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc WR powervalve and gear shift advise needed

macwood

Husqvarna
B Class
Just bought a 06 wr 250 checked power valve and found the PV linkage has a fair bit of free movement. this is with engine not going and then i try it with engine going and it seems to operate normal. Im thinking there should be no freetravel as it would effect power delivery.
When riding it has not got a lot of low down grunt but does come on strong and fairly sudden up top. I would like a bit more midrange on the way thru if I can. It seems as if the end of the arm that runs in the govener slot is loose allowing the freetrave but I took off the clutch cover and found that the whole govenor assembly could move in and out which moves the pv Is this normal or is there a washer or shim missing from either end of assembly.

Another problem sometimes cant change down gears , pedal is solid and I have to change up and then go down seems to be a selecter issue. I have pulled the clutch apart and found all the fibre plates broken except 2 and most of the broken ones were in about 4 pieces, I think some idiot has tried to resurface the basket contact points but got it very wrong, any one got any ideas on these concerns . thanks- macwood
 
Just bought a 06 wr 250 checked power valve and found the PV linkage has a fair bit of free movement. this is with engine not going and then i try it with engine going and it seems to operate normal. Im thinking there should be no freetravel as it would effect power delivery.
When riding it has not got a lot of low down grunt but does come on strong and fairly sudden up top. I would like a bit more midrange on the way thru if I can. It seems as if the end of the arm that runs in the govener slot is loose allowing the freetrave but I took off the clutch cover and found that the whole govenor assembly could move in and out which moves the pv Is this normal or is there a washer or shim missing from either end of assembly.

Another problem sometimes cant change down gears , pedal is solid and I have to change up and then go down seems to be a selecter issue. I have pulled the clutch apart and found all the fibre plates broken except 2 and most of the broken ones were in about 4 pieces, I think some idiot has tried to resurface the basket contact points but got it very wrong, any one got any ideas on these concerns . thanks- macwood
I've tested different options on an 01 and delivery can be changed quite significantly. First of all for best bottom end lower midrange you need to set the bottom stop at 50.5mm. Next I found the powervalve governer needed a 1.3mm shim added behind the spring to slow the opening, it significantly strengthened the whole midrange. Last and personal preference I welded a stub onto the top stop to allow it to open less, it still has a potent top end but gains more in the mid.

As for slop mine has too and if you adjust it out by raising the bottom stop you just lose bottom end and midrange.
 
Hi just letting everyone know I sorted both issues. First the gear shift problem, pulled the clutch cover off and studied shift operation when it jammed and found one of the 2 tiny push tabs on the shift mechanism (bottom one )had it's spring loaded detent was jamed in and not letting it stay in it's out of the way position and would jam solid until you had to lift shifter up then try go down again. dissasembled and pollished with wet and dry, slight streched small detent spring, slightly rounded off square edge of lower tiny push tab with wet and dry also. Hasn't missed a beat since.
While clutch coveer was off I could get to power valve govener assembly so pulled it out and found the small retaining pin that holds it all together on it's shaft was half way out which was causing excess play in the power valve, repositioned this pin and that fixed it, how it got half way out who knows but power delivery seems ok now

macca
 
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