• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc WR 250 - Loss of Power and Lots of Spooge

M

mikebru

Husqvarna
AA Class
Went on my 3rd real ride yesterday with new to me 2009 WR 250. 60 miles in NJ pines.
I had a loss of power in all gears right when it should have gotten on the pipe. It would sputter and slow down. I had the throttle wide open and nothing would happen. On open trails and roads I could find a sweet spot in 2nd and 3rd gear and get on the pipe after finessing the throttle at the end of the ride. Bike sounded like a helicopter. It started doing this after a 3-4 mile long, 1st-2nd gear trail.

Also, there were massive amounts of spooge on swingarm, dripping from collar at pipe silencer junction. Bike had this when I bought it but not as bad as yesterday.

Last 2 rides the bike ran great in similar weather and same and different locations.

Ride number 1 was in Pa rocks and hills. Bike was great.

Ride number 2 was almost identical to yesterday's ride, about 3 weeks ago. Bike was fine.

I'm not real fast but try to wind it out when I can. By no means am I WOT all the time.

Talked to a bunch of guys after the ride and they suggested doing a few things. Also read a lot of the threads here.

1. Maybe power valve is not opening. Take it apart and clean it.
2. Repack silencer. It is a Leo Vince with spark arrestor screen connected to a DEP pipe.
3. Put in a new top end. It has over 60 hours on original piston and rings as far as I know.
4. Per my search here, spooge is a result of jetting problems. So was it running what I thought was fine but it really has a jetting problem? It has a Keihin carb. I have no idea what jetting is in the carb. Which jets/clips would I change?
5. If there is a jetting issue would that have caused the lack of power?

I'm going to head out and start taking everything apart today to see what I find.

Any ideas?

Thanks for any help. Mike
 
Jetting doesn't "suddenly change", unless you had it jetted for sea level and then rode it at 9000 feet. Even then, you usually lose bottom end power first. Check the operation of your powervalve first. Make sure that the hardware is still fastened and properly tightened. I haven't looked at the linkage on the WRs yet, but if the nut fell off, or the governor foot snapped on one of my KDXs, the powervalve would cease to work. And it always seems to be in the closed position when this happens. So the bike will run great when in the lower half of the RPM range, but will run terrible and flat where it is supposed to come on the pipe. The jetting would seem too rich, because the air is not moving fast enough for the amount of fuel that is being allowed into the engine, because the powervalves are not opened at all. So....check the powervalve first.
 
60 hours on that motor is nothing, unless the previous owner did nothing but super fast motocross. You can check compression if you're worried, but there's no way it's worn out due to hours alone.

I'd take the carb apart, clean it, and see what jetting is in there. If it previously ran fine the jetting is probably ok, but it's always good to know what setup you have in your carb even if it runs ok. FYI, I don't like to jet by spooge but it can be an indicator. My WR300 with Keihin has a bit of a drool line on the muffler, but it is never dripping extensively.

I think the suggestions you got are good ones. Oh, and swap the plug and check the plug wire, could be something dumb like that.
 
Dirtdame said:
Jetting doesn't "suddenly change", unless you had it jetted for sea level and then rode it at 9000 feet.
Click to expand...

Except for when water or dirt get in the jets. Or a main jet wiggles out. Or the overflows get plugged in a mud puddle. All things I have seen for myself.
 
Thanks for the advice Dirtdame and Motosportz.

I just took off the two pv side covers. Things are tight and I can make the pv move with a t wrench on the right side bolt heads that attach to the 'foot shaped thing' that meshes with the small sprocket. However, very hard to twist the shaft that comes out of the motor to move the pv. Is that normal?

Do i needd to take off the front pv cover?
 
Thanks but just took carb off. When I go to do what you said Kyle do Ieave the front pv cover on? The cover the pipe slides into.

Thanks
 
What's the trick to getting the jet needle out of the slide? I want to see what size it is and clip position.

Thanks
 
Here's jetting so far. I cant get to the needle and clip at this point.

Part 26. Main jet. 175

Part 10. Slow jet? 42. This one was clogged. I cleaned it but haven't run bike yet.

Part 13. Slide. 7

I mostly ride at around sea level in south Jersey with a trip here and there to Pa.

Jetting seem ok?
 
What's the trick to getting the jet needle out of the slide?
Compress the spring & plastic piece to give enough space for the throttle cable end (little snub) to slip out of the nut down in the slide.
 
mikebru said:
What's the trick to getting the jet needle out of the slide? I want to see what size it is and clip position.
Click to expand...

Hemostat.

hemostats.jpg


Pull the spring and plastic cup up towards the carb cap, and then clip the hemostat on the cable to hold them up (holding the spring compressed). Then you can easily pop the cable out of its groove, unscrew the cap (6 mm) and drop the needle out. The hemostat will keep everything retained for easy assembly later. Might be able to get away with mini needlenose vice grips too, just don't cut/nick/fray the cable.

When reinstalling the plastic cup, make sure the "key" on it is aligned with the "keyway" in the screw-in cap. If not, it won't drop on all the way and the slide will not fully open (and there is also a risk that the cable will come unclipped, as that cap keeps the cable retained).

With a little practice you can easily change the needle in one of those carbs, or adjust the clip, in 5-10 minutes on the side of the trail.

That other jetting you posted looks pretty sensible, but it's all about the needle for most riding.
 
mikebru said:
Thanks. Is slow jet and pilot the same thing?
Click to expand...

Yes same thing. Fix your hacked silencer with a FMF Turbine Core 2. Fits WR250 00-06 but also the later models including all WR300. Will need some RTV to seal the joints between rubber grommet. Works good. Little quieter than stock. EASY easy to repack.
 
Not sure which carb the 09 250 came with but my 09 125 came with the crappy TMXX which had a jet that was smaller then the pilot. Not sure what you call it. I ripped that crap carb off as fast as i could. Hate those things.
 
Thanks for the details everybody. They are invaluable. I had to take a long break before for a barbeque. I'll get back to checking things out tomorrow night.

Before the bbq, I managed go mangle my leo vince silencer. I figured it was time for a repack. After 2 hours of drilling, prying, pounding and slamming the cover still isn't off, the carbon fiber end cap is destroyed. Time to buy a new one.
 
Ok, I couldn't wait until tomorrow.

Needle has red top. Couldn't find any other markings.

Clip is in the 2nd from top slot which is the 4th up from the bottom most position.
 
Thanks Motosportz. There is a JD sticker on the carb so you must be right.

I'm about to read up on clip position. Pretty sure more needle deeper into carb means less fuel and more air entering carb, right? That would mean lean and less spooge, shouldn't it? However, I had what I think is way too much, especially for mixing at 50:1.

Between that and loss of power does it point to a need for a new top end?

I did notice that the collar wasn't covering the silencer/stinger junction. Maybe that in combo with saturated silencer meant lots of chain oiling?
 
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