• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Wire ID off the Lambda Sensor (HELP)

Joe Chod

Joe Chod

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Quick simple question and please don’t ask why for now, (O.K. I want to hook up a temporary testing purposes Air Fuel Gauge) But does anyone know which of the 4 wires on the LAMBDA probe is the:
Sensor signal
Sensor ground
Heater power
Heater ground

I would follow the schematic but…..
The 4 wires off the probe do not match the color codes listed in the schematic. If they did , I could trace to what they go to on schematic and tell the one that goes to the heat coil is the heater power and so on but as said, The 4 wires off the probe do not match the color codes listed in the schematic and it is impossible to physically follow through the maze of wire which is sheathed to further compound tracing.
 
I have that info somewhere, I'll post it when I find it.

The stock sensor is a narrow band sensor that reads from about 14.2 to 15.2 AFR. The output voltage varies between .2V to .8V
 
So am guessing it will not be good for what I want as it will only detect the slightly lean to real lean side of the house. Need a sensor to read a little wider to the left as well.
Your thoughts?

Joe
 
I just bought an Innovate LC-1 Wide Band O2 sensor. Haven't used it but my plan is to use it to improve the map on my PCIII. (Better still would be to get a PCV with Autotune but I already had the PCIII so I'm going this route.) The LC-1 is the cheapest AFR measuring option out there but isn't necessarily the most complete or user friendly.

By the way, the LC-1 has a simulated narrow-band O2 sensor output that you can set to whatever AFR you want. In theory that signal could be fed back to the ECU in place of the stock O2 sensor so you could keep the fully closed-loop EFI without having it go as lean as it does when stock. It's an intriguing idea but I doubt I'll ever do it because the bike runs great without the O2 sensor and I have too many projects as it is.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
 
I spent quite a bit of time working with the LC-1 with the intent of using the programmable output to fool to the ECU.

The idea worked somewhat, when I programmed the LC-1 to output the 14.7:1 voltage while actually reading 13.2:1, it would work for a short time, then the ECU would determine that too much fuel adjustment was being made to the base map and would then ignore the O2 signal thinking the O2 sensor was bad. The bike had to be powered-off to reset this condition and it would often create a fault code.

It was a good idea at the time and before learning about the ECU behavior and shortly after starting the experiment, I learned that the PCV was going to be released in 6 months which was going to be a better solution.

You can also buy a older generation Innovate LM-1 wideband O2 meter with data logging for ~$275 that can log 44 minutes of data 12 times per second. It can also log TPS & RPM with a optional input cable.

This good for collecting data to understand what happening, but you could spend that money on a PCV with AT and be make fine adjustments.

I have installed an extra O2 sensor port so I can run O2 feedback and log data with a separate sensor connected to a LM-1.

I think once more of the PCV auto-tune maps are shared, we can see if there is a general shape or curve to correct the ECU fuel map between different bikes of the same model. If that is the case, one could use a average map with maybe a overall offset adjustment their their bike. This would eliminate need for everyone to have auto-tune as well as provide a good map for people with PCIII's. Just theory?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top