• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

WHY THE HEC DOES MY FRONT END SCATE SO EASY IN THE ROCKS****************************************!!! SCARY****************************************

fletchman45

fletchman45

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I do not get it. On both my WR150 and CR150 I have had both the front and rear revalved. And the bike lowered 1 inch. They both have 50 mm twin chamber Zokes. The suspension feels AWESOME everywhere except for square edeged roots and rocks. It is SCARY **************************************** At the advice of my dealer (Jay at Halls) I have a scotts steeribg dampner coming to help. I'm wondering is it a trait of the bike itself because it is so light??????? Everywhere else I feel like a hero and these things handle so fraking AWESOME it is crazy!!! Jay seems to think I'm charging harder then I used to. But I'm not so sure of this. Any suggestions???????????? Will have a steering dampner this week to install. Help!!!
 
Tires? Tire pressure? I'm by no means an expert but sounds like you have the biggest pieces covered already if your suspension guy is any good. Hopefully someone else will chime in here (Joe, Jake, Kelly) that has been riding these things in that type of environment.
 
ioneater said:
Tires? Tire pressure? I'm by no means an expert but sounds like you have the biggest pieces covered already if your suspension guy is any good. Hopefully someone else will chime in here (Joe, Jake, Kelly) that has been riding these things in that type of environment.
Click to expand...

Good thinking. But 1 bike has foam inserts with good tires and the other one has nice tires. I should check the tire pressure you are right but I am 99.9% sure Halls did. But I will check
 
Whenever I take suspension in to have somebody else do the re-valve, I am sure to specify that I want the valving set up so that the suspension doesn't deflect in rocky technical terrain. Make sure that the static sag is set at about 1 1/4 inches also. This is how much the forks should settle from full extension when resting straight up under it's own weight.
 
Dirtdame said:
Whenever I take suspension in to have somebody else do the re-valve, I am sure to specify that I want the valving set up so that the suspension doesn't deflect in rocky technical terrain. Make sure that the static sag is set at about 1 1/4 inches also. This is how much the forks should settle from full extension when resting straight up under it's own weight.
Click to expand...

Th.at is what I do!!! And Halls has always done a great job with my suspension. I thought some of it may be because it is a twin chamber fork or the bike is to lite! 1 1/4 is about what I have I'm pretty sure. Thanks
 
a square edge is just that. they hit back. if your damper is hydro-locking it will spike and pop the tire and ding the rim and usually deflect unless you hit it square on and you'll feel it in your wrists. if the spring is too stiff it will boing over it and rebound faster causing pop up.

springs hold the bike up and dictate ride height.
dampers control wheel speed and ride quailty.

air pressure: so not an issue if it is correct. use the correct pressure or a bit more when in the sharp stuff. running low pressures is useless and causes problems like pinch flats, digned rims, wallowy squirmy handling over 5 mph. but you have tubeless i think so...

you need to ride a section over and over making one click adjustments at a time while making notes. there's no way around that. and if you set up for one particular section then other sections/terrain types may not be as complaint/resistant to bottoming. just tooling along making changes at checks and rest stops rarely works. you need to be methodical and consistent. set yer sag, pick a spot and go back and forth over it noting what the results of your clicker changes are. it's that simple, time consuming and well- not much fun as others are out roosting. but that's how the big boys do it- they test and test alot. as far as hauling ass into sqaure edges and roots? well, i suggest backing off a tad in that stuff. square edges turn into steps and those turn into ledges and roots turn into logs etc...so really, some stuff ya just gotta back off for.

after you exhaust all posibilitiies send the units back for a revalve. lowered suspensions ramp up pretty fast damp wise so getting the correct spring rate is crucial to keep it up in the stroke and out of the final.

suspension is a compromise in 99% of cases. super plush for nasty slow stuff = too soft for fast stuff. sure some sus[ension is hopless and needs help. 99% of the time it's a few adjustments away from being a "eureka i love my bike again" moment.

the main thing is YOU need to put in the effort and exhaust all resoruces before pulling off the suspension and sending it back. it might cost a day of riding but once you find out what it wants you can record a BASELINE setting (you do have same on a sticker on the fork or a card in you pack with same and jetting info etc right???) and settings for different areas then youre just a few clicks away from making it work the best it can where ever.
 
What type of conditions did you have your suspension revalved for?

A steering damper will help some, but remember you have to account for a light bike which requires more suspension tuning to reduce deflection.

Up in this part of the world, most folks back off the compression damping in the forks when riding in the rocks and junk, which helps a bunch.
Perhaps Vinduro might have some further advice, as he rides a 150 I believe.

Also, wheelying over the junk will help some. That's what the fast guys do up here....
 
It's a light bike and they tend have more problems with that, but I'd have top agree with dukes suggestion that it's "hydro lock", mainly from the valve ports. The zooks seem to be on the small port side, which really shows up on a spike hit, like a square edge.

The scotts steering damper will help if the bars are being jerked when the forks deflect. If the wheel is just stepping out it won't.
 
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