• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Where do I go from here? Engine issue..

W

WXC250

Husqvarna
AA Class
Only put about 10 hours on my bike so far, compression at 230 psi initially. I have been messing with jething throughout the time and finally it felt good. Was riding today in the 40°s running great. Went from 1.5 out on the pilot to 2 and felt no real difference was letting it idle and it started to die. Thought nothing of it and put it back to 1.5 out. Tried to start it an hour later and the Kickstart was going right through the stroke.. The cylinder had a nice score going down it that my fingernail could fit in..
 

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if its catching the finger nail it means it will need replated or replaced. time for a wossner as well. as others suggested split it and clean/check everything, replace crank seals
 
Only found wiseco on ebay, is wossner the factory piston? I have some big decisions to make at this point.. getting here only took 30 minutes and a piston kit seems to be about 120$ plug base gasket ect, obviously no big deal.. Never split cases on anything before so a little intimidated there and not trying to get over my head. The score on the cylinder isn't as bad as I first thought. Thinking light sand paper, and vacuum and air hose out the bottom end. Thanks for the quick responses
 
no, wossner is a german forged lightweight piston that almost everyone has very good results with. i personally like them better than wiseco. i could be slightly biased tho as wossner has stepped up and is supporting the older swede motors as well. i cant say i like your plan as you may be already over your head but i would at least remove the engine so it can be tipped up and the crankcase flushed out...i risky rebuild plan imho.
 
Ok, I will call around for a Wossner. There were some small chips riding between the top of the crank and case. Was able to get those out and some tiny ones in the bottom of the case. Wd40 OK to flush with? As far as the cylinder and head goes I am planning on sending them out.
 
justintendo said:
wd 40 or gasoline should work fine. when you think its flushed enough, flush it some more..
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diesel works too. follow up with a ATF rinse to leave bottom end fully lubed up. diesel and gas will remove all oily film which you will need obviously.
 
Good luck with getting the old girl fixed up. I know it's a little late now, but this is why I always put a fresh top end on any used 2-stroke I get. When I picked up my 2000 wr250, it still ran good and compression seemed fine but this is what the piston looked like...:eek:! The cylinder was ok but I did touch up a few areas with fine emery cloth and a scotch bright pad. She runs great now!
IMG_1095.JPG
 
WXC250 said:
Only found wiseco on ebay, is wossner the factory piston? I have some big decisions to make at this point.. getting here only took 30 minutes and a piston kit seems to be about 120$ plug base gasket ect, obviously no big deal.. Never split cases on anything before so a little intimidated there and not trying to get over my head. The score on the cylinder isn't as bad as I first thought. Thinking light sand paper, and vacuum and air hose out the bottom end. Thanks for the quick responses
Click to expand...
Don't use sand papar on the cylinder wall. Use scotch brite and some penetrating oil (my favorite is PB Blaster). If you try to clean the crankcase up without splitting the cases it is a gamble. If you leave one spec and it happens to get caught under a rod bearing roller or in a main bearing you will have a more expensive rebuild then the somewhat minor damage you have now. If you feel like gambling I recommend spraying with brake cleaner and blowing it out with compressed air until it is as dry and clean as you can get it. Then check crank and rod bearings for end play (not side to side) if you have any end play then tear it down, if not it's your gamble. The risk is a spec of metal stuck under a bearing roller will cause the bearing to skid and flat spot then with no warning all hell breaks loose in a small fraction of time.
 
David Hudson said:
Good luck with getting the old girl fixed up. I know it's a little late now, but this is why I always put a fresh top end on any used 2-stroke I get. When I picked up my 2000 wr250, it still ran good and compression seemed fine but this is what the piston looked like...:eek:! The cylinder was ok but I did touch up a few areas with fine emery cloth and a scotch bright pad. She runs great now!
View attachment 48799
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I pull my reed block once a year to look for that wear pattern. They will run fine like that and bust a piston with no warning.
 
The pieces of metal are from the piston ring being snagged correct? I have been doing reading and from the pictures of my piston top and head those are signs of crank bearing starting to go.. but in my case it was caused from the rings or plating from the cylinder being pushed into the combustion chamber?

Powerseal out of PA can do the replate for 200 50 if welding needed, wossner for 130. Than bottom end options.. cost vs turnaround time vs future failure.
 
It's hard to tell from the pics, but it is possible that the metal fragments you see are from a broken bearing cage but that's just a guess without seeing it in person. That stuff has to be from something. If the rings are still in one piece and the piston is in one piece, then you've got to find out the source of the F.O.D. (Foreign Object Damage)
 
David Hudson said:
It's hard to tell from the pics, but it is possible that the metal fragments you see are from a broken bearing cage but that's just a guess without seeing it in person. That stuff has to be from something. If the rings are still in one piece and the piston is in one piece, then you've got to find out the source of the F.O.D. (Foreign Object Damage)
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I'm thinking it's from the piston around the ring area
 
Does this bike have a power valve? I've seen them come apart and do similar damage as well as leave little metal bits in the top end.
 
its not hard to split em...tusk universal tools are cheap as well. winter is a good time to learn. if you want to play with old huskies its a wonderful skill to have. everyone here will walk you thru it if you want to go down that road. i wish i would have learned it before i did
 
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